Looking for a window wisperer. Manual front Windows

[bavbob]

I thank Roger S. for the title.

I am putting my right windows back in and it has been a bear to adjust them. I kept track of the old support positions before paint but as expected, that was worthless. I cannot get the front window to go high enough with the crank to create a seal with the upper door gasket (see last image). I also cannot get it aligned with the back window gasket, although it seats ok (see image 1,2). Clearly the window has to move up and to move forward on the bottom when closed since it is so close to the door frame (see image 1 red circle) while the top has to move back. I have every nut lose, I can pull the window up manually to seat and pull the top back to almost align, but I cannot get the bottom (when up) to be any more forward. Although I can manually manipulate the window to almost fit, I cannot do so with the window crank. It will not go all the way up. I have all the window stops loose or off so that is not an issue. Apparently been issues in the past by the little chip in the glass ( arrow). The car was hit in the right rear quarter panel but from outside, looks perfect. I have spent two days on this Rubic's cube and asking for any help. I was thinking of adjusting the door itself but the body shop really did a nice job with the alignment. That's a last resort. I am going to shim the bottom screw of the window attchment to the rear track to hopefully change the window angle.

 

[burky]

Try winding the window halfway down ,then loosen the bolts holding the winder mechanism to the door, now try winding the window , you should see quite a bit of rotation with the mounting bolts , now grab the glass and move it in the direction best for alignment, hold pressure on the glass and tighten the winder mech bolts, that should help . Sometimes it is necessary to adjust /shim the rear vertical window guide as well, try step one first. Good luck,Burky.

 

[bavbob]

Appreciated. I quickly applied your method and got some results, going to try it further. The other thing that was helpful was replacing the felt guide on the front. Even though the old guide seemed fine, the new one allowed the window to rise another .5cm which was enough. Still unable to get front and rear window edges parallel. I tried to tweak the rear window again but no luck. I planned on shimming the rear window guide as well.

 

[Thomas76]

I've been putting this off because it looked very difficult. Initial installation yielded same results as yours, window doesn't go high enough or level. I used new W/N spring stops (I've got power windows) and they seem to be too big. The design only lifts in one position somewhat near the middle of the glass, so there is little to no wobble prevention towards the top end of travel.
I'll take this on the chin as a "price to pay" for a pillarless car, as I'm watching a 2000's AMG coupe sell on bring a trailer it makes me wonder if the germans got better at it.

 

[dang]

I just took the right front glass out the other night because it had come loose. One of the rivets in the clamp that holds the glass to the roller bracket broke. I wasn't expecting problems putting it back together but I guess I should.

EDIT: Oops, I thought your were talking E3.

 

[bavbob]

Here's the rundown on this Rubic's cube window thing: 73 with manual front, electric back window. We all can figure this out but maybe this will save someone a few minutes ...or days. Comments are all relative to main front window, not rear, not vent window.

1) 13 mm nuts at top and bottom of vent window alter angle of window medial or lateral. Manual windows on my 73 do not allow these to more front or back. Pull top in and push bottom out to bring top of window towards the door seal and vice versa.
2) The 10mm and 13mm bolts for the vent window dont get you much, a little forward or backward, but know that the motion comes mostly from window rotation so this changes the angle of the window.
3) Burky is right on. Window 1/2 way down, you can adjust the 3, 10mm bolts on the crank. This gets you some up/down and forward/backward motion. Again, the forward/backward is achieved with an element of rotation which alters the window angle relative to the back window and felt track on the vent window.
4) The 3, 10 mm bolts that hold the window to the mechanism/plate that rides on the rear track, these get you some forward/backward motion and a little up/down, but the up down is pure, no rotational component. I loosened the 2, 13mm nuts that hold the window to the arm while doing this.
5) Rear track adjusted via a lower bracket that goes medial/lateral and forward/backward but again, the forward/backward comes with some rotation and window angle change. The top of the track has 2 thin 10mm nuts that will allow the track to move forward/backward and in doing so, a little up and down, maybe a little medial/lateral.Again forward/back have some rotational component.
6) The 2, 10mm nuts that hold the rear bracket to the ball bearing slide, these get you a little up and down but mostly medial and lateral.
7) The 8mm nuts that hold the small front bracket at the window base that runs along the vent window track, very little achieved here. Adjust mostly to help with resistance during opening and closing.