Looking for AC parts

My reply has to do with removing old tint. I had to have the rear glass and front door windows re tinted on my dd due to a previous owner using limo tint and you literally couldn't see through it. I talked to several tinters and they were sketchy about pulling the old tint off the rear glass and harming the defroster elements in the glass. Then I found a guy who knew how to get the old tint off without scraping. He simply wet it down well, taped a plastic garbage bag over it and let it sit in the sun for a good 15 minutes and it lifted off in one piece. So now onto my six. I don't know if it's from the rear defroster or just 40 year old tint, but at night lights from behind and a car itself show in my mirror as coming through the glass in quarter sized circles so that will be redone Bottom line is find the best tinter you can and yes re tinting with the glass in the car will not pose a problem. I do not have an adhesion problem I am aware of as the film seems to not be bubbling
 
Stevehose said:
Probably, but then I would think there is the risk of damage when the window goes back in. Perhaps @Drew Gregg could chime in - he had this done.
Click to expand...
Here's my post from 2021 about EXPELL window tint.


This tint really helps keep the heat from entering the car, and 99% of the UV rays are kept out also per the manufacturer.
About Coupe A/C--my system had a York rotary compressor that cooled the car better than having the windows open here in hot humid S. Florida. But the engine wanted to get hot in stop & craw traffic and the power was not there compared to running w/o the A/C on.
All of this is now history thanks to the system created by @sfdon. Now the 3-position blower switch ( off-medium-high) and the new fan motor pumps out really cold air. His cooling system has the stop & crawl speed along with high-speed travel keeping the temp gage in the horizontal position. Note that the evaporator was removed and the fins were all cleaned &combed straight. All of the rest of the components are new. The new system holds 1.9 lb. of R134 freon.
The real reason for all of this work was to get the engine power back to be the same whether the A/C was on or off. The car now pulls in 5th gear with the A/C on like it was in 4th gear with the old system.
I now have a cool ride with all of the Korman ponies back....
 
One kind forum member is stepping up to help me out; is the compressor (see pic) a clear candidate for replacement by the newer (Sanden?) type?

Or can an original unit like in the pic, (perhaps after rebuild?) function just as well? Screenshot_20231031_222436_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
Since you are not keeping the car original, I highly recommend the modern Sanden. It will produce better results, be replaceable, and most likely cost less than questionably rebuilding an older unit. Also, it weights less and takes up less room down below. Opinions……veel geluk
 
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Agree, and you can also do away with the dampener on the fender that is only necessary with the original unit.
 
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if you go with the new Sanden unit, i highly recommend the WC Wylie (Layne) mounting bracket. see the FAQ for best sources. also check out @Stevehose post on A/C upgrades with the parallel flow condenser. if you want to make things easy ... you can buy a kit from our friend @sfdon. it will have everything you need - compressor, bracket, condenser, hoses, spal fan ... all made to work together
 
+2 on everything said above @eriknetherlands - the guiding principle for my 2023 AC retrofit project was:

-everything on the passenger side must look stock - front plate, knobs, panels, side vents, evaporator core
-everything under the hood-upgrade to latest technology and new parts for maintainability, spares, function
 
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