Looking for advice on adjusting the doors and windows

mark99

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Looking for advice on adjusting the doors and windows

These are all parts that came out of the car, the car was not bent before repaint
For the windows,
I think I am aware of all the adjustment points on the aft track and on the vent window track

My problem, questions,

On the passenger side, the glass is too far aft, it is probably .05" from the metal trim
I think if I hit a bump or someone slammed the door it would hit
There is a chip in the window at that area already
I don't see anyway of moving the window forward or aft other than moving the door, and the gaps look pretty even where I have it

On the drivers side, the rear upper corner is too far out
It seems like the only adjustment is to move the bottom of the tracks out, but they are at the end of the slots
Maybe I need to slot them further, new brackets?

Are there any tricks to adjusting the doors?
We got them very close with a trial and error but it is difficult to do
Has anyone made a jig or stand to hold the door while it is open so it can be held at the correct spot while tightening the bolts?

Thanks




DSC_2901.JPG
 
If we talk about window adjustments - try to make some adjustments on window rails.
I marked main adjustment points with red arrows.
Rear rail lower mount is hided inside the doors. Adjustment range on upper rear rail is ca. 5mm forward/backwards & ca. 2mm on sides.
Triangle window/front rail are "3D" adjustable (also inside/outside) - adjustments on this rail are mainly responsible for the window angle.

There are also some little adjusting points where glass support/holder is mounted to the rail.
s-l1600 (1).jpg
 
Last edited:
Looking for advice on adjusting the doors and windows

These are all parts that came out of the car, the car was not bent before repaint
For the windows,
I think I am aware of all the adjustment points on the aft track and on the vent window track

My problem, questions,

On the passenger side, the glass is too far aft, it is probably .05" from the metal trim
I think if I hit a bump or someone slammed the door it would hit
There is a chip in the window at that area already
I don't see anyway of moving the window forward or aft other than moving the door, and the gaps look pretty even where I have it

On the drivers side, the rear upper corner is too far out
It seems like the only adjustment is to move the bottom of the tracks out, but they are at the end of the slots
Maybe I need to slot them further, new brackets?

Are there any tricks to adjusting the doors?
We got them very close with a trial and error but it is difficult to do
Has anyone made a jig or stand to hold the door while it is open so it can be held at the correct spot while tightening the bolts?

Thanks




View attachment 83344

I feel your pain, even though I made many cheater marks & took pics of positions prior to removal. Ultimately loosened all bolts & used big clamps to hold it in what looked like correct fully-raised position, tightened bolts, and then fiddled w different raise & lower positions. Even loosening the window-glass bolts gave it a bit more play to work with. I’m sure there’s a much smarter &
more efficient way, but this finally worked.
 
My question on the windows, it seems like I am at the end of the adjustments
The window mounting bolts seem like maybe a good idea, but it seems like it is free to float on the actuating arm
 
YES I KNOW THE IS
HERES WHAT I DID I USED A WOOD BRACE ON THE BOTTOM AND A SISSOR JACK
TO MOVE THE TOP IN THEN SET THE BOTTOM
TO MOVE THE DOOR FORWARD
ALSO YOU CAN FILE OUT THE TOP VENT WINDOW SLOT AND MOVING THE VENT WILL PULL THE WINDOW FORWARD
 
My question on the windows, it seems like I am at the end of the adjustments
The window mounting bolts seem like maybe a good idea, but it seems like it is free to float on the actuating arm

Sorry if I misunderstood. Sounds like you might have to make some space on the brackets. I also considered whether I’d bent the bottom of the rear guide rail where it attaches and whether I’d used the incorrect washers or other hardware that would change the angle. I compared to manual & driver’s door & ruled those out. Interested to hear what works.
 
YES ITS A REAL BEAR OF A JOB
AS YOU CAN SEE ON MY POST
i actually had to file out the hidge holes on both the door and body to get mine close
as my fender was not set correctly from the body shop.
a real bummer
setting the vent forward will help a bit for sure
 
YES ITS A REAL BEAR OF A JOB
AS YOU CAN SEE ON MY POST
i actually had to file out the hidge holes on both the door and body to get mine close
as my fender was not set correctly from the body shop.
a real bummer
setting the vent forward will help a bit for sure
Hi Alan
by file... I assume you mean the one attachment hole near the forward top of the door, near the vent, that seems to be the only hole that is not slotted
 
I can't imagine how they made any money on them, even if you did know what your were doing it had to take a lot of time to put one of these together
 
Mark, are you dealing with manual or electric windows? I am coming to this road soon, fronts are manual, rear electric.

BTW on my repaint etc, they would not start without my door latches, marker lights etc. Wanted it all to line up nice and not have any gaps after paint. Thankfully they handled the doors for me.
 
mine are all electric
The paint guy put my doors on, and they were pretty good, just trying to get them a little better
 
Adjusting doors and windows is the hardest thing I've had to do on my coupe. It took months to get them right. Even now they still need a little more tweaking.
It was so frustrating I would work on them and not get there so would walk away for a few days before I could try again. Probably why it took 6 months. ;)
 
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