M30 oil filter housing and check valves

[Krzysztof]

Side comment Gents.

After reading only a small part of Your posts treating about the M30 engines problems I starting to fear how many items I can miss while refurbishing 2.5CS engine and to apply recommended precautions during overhaul process in front of me in year or two.

Is there a thread or article summing up all of these "tips and tricks" in one place, including proper upgrades (like E28 535i oil filter housing)? That would help me to gather all necessary parts before.

 

[Ohmess]

Krysztof - There are no summaries of the vast knowledge on the forum. As one point, someone here had plans to make a book of forum posts - and that would be a massive project - but it didn't happen.

 

[HB Chris]

I’m trying to make sense of this thread. I see above that an e12 filter canister is recommended over the stock e9 one but then there’s the linked thread which recommends the later e28 canister over an earlier one. And also that oil won’t drain up.
Is there a definitive reason not to use your factory e9 canister other than convenience?
@dang - did you find a solution?

Ted, I used the e12 top bolt canister that was on my b30 when I went to b35. Stock e9 is the bottom bolt. It is just easier to change the filter, no other real benefit I don’t believe and I just had to plug that b35 oil gallery.

 

[TedS]

Ted, I used the e12 top bolt canister that was on my b30 when I went to b35. Stock e9 is the bottom bolt. It is just easier to change the filter, no other real benefit I don’t believe and I just had to plug that b35 oil gallery.

Thanks for the reassurance. I removed the e28 bracket and put my original spin on filter converted one back on-- light goes out within 3-4 seconds whereas with the e28 bracket it was taking 9-10. I have no idea why that is.
But boy, that spin on filter is still bigger than the top bolt canister. What a royal pain to get in and out.