Does anyone know the Bosch number for the best distributor for a carbureted car? And why use this number, does this distributor offer more advance or a better advance curve?
Thanks, Doug
Thanks, Doug
Most Desirable Ignition Distributor
- Thread starter DougE
- Start date
The best combination I've found and what I'm running in my 3.0CS is the following:
Bosch Distributor: 0 231 184 008
Bosch Super Red Coil
Both parts are available from Bavarian Autosport, but you might be able to source them elsewhere.
Bosch Distributor: 0 231 184 008
Bosch Super Red Coil
Both parts are available from Bavarian Autosport, but you might be able to source them elsewhere.
jhjacobs
Well-Known Member
Doug - Treat yourself to an electronic ignition module too! I dropped in a simple Crane optical system. No more points! Timing pretty much stays put once set! I am pretty sure it has a built in ballast so you can use a Bosch Red coil directly (the instructions were clear). I made a little aluminum mounting plate so it would fit in nicely.
I seem to recall (back to the 70's and bad clothes) that you could purchase different spring kits for Bosch distributors to change the rate of advance. I am less certain about any options for changing the total amount of advance. I also remember buying vacuum-less Bosch distributors for the M30 (and VW's) which were supposed to be "high performance." Then again, I was living in Berkley and many things are still hazy from that period of my life. Anyone else remember this stuff?
I seem to recall (back to the 70's and bad clothes) that you could purchase different spring kits for Bosch distributors to change the rate of advance. I am less certain about any options for changing the total amount of advance. I also remember buying vacuum-less Bosch distributors for the M30 (and VW's) which were supposed to be "high performance." Then again, I was living in Berkley and many things are still hazy from that period of my life. Anyone else remember this stuff?
Honolulu
Well-Known Member
Mechanical vs vacuum advance
For VWs and 2002s, the hot ticket was supposed to be the diz with only mechanical advance. These had no vacuum gizmo screwed onto the outside.
As I have been given to understand it, the mechanical-advance-only (diz 008 for VW, forget what the number is for coupes) gives a faster advance versus rpm, but does not have the same total advance. It is suited for the engines on whch it is the original equipment. Typically, those motors had higher compression ratios and could not well tolerate as much total idnition advance.
IIRC there are only two diz numbers for carburetted coupes. I have used both and can't tell the difference but then again I'm not a tuning freak.
That said, the best diz is one that isn't worn out, and your diz drive, all the way back to the crank sprocket, should be considered. Obviously, a perfect diz won't do as much for a motor with a tired cam chain, worn out tensioner rail, or worn diz drive gear.
There used to be diz rebuild kits but they may be NLA, I've not tried to source one. Maximilian, CNPR, Mesa?
You can check the wear in the total diz drive by installing a diz, static timing it to TDC, then running the engine at idle. Assuming the engine is running smoothly, the timing mark should not jump around when you shine a timing light on it. I've put my light on a new factory (2002) engine and it was steady as a rock, whereas most of us by now have "a bit" of variation in our timing.
BTW, a Crane, Allison or Pertronix won't make much (diddley-squat ?) improvement to the accuracy of your ignition timing if there's wear in the drive system. Cam chain and timing rail, both replaceable items, might oughta be checked.
For VWs and 2002s, the hot ticket was supposed to be the diz with only mechanical advance. These had no vacuum gizmo screwed onto the outside.
As I have been given to understand it, the mechanical-advance-only (diz 008 for VW, forget what the number is for coupes) gives a faster advance versus rpm, but does not have the same total advance. It is suited for the engines on whch it is the original equipment. Typically, those motors had higher compression ratios and could not well tolerate as much total idnition advance.
IIRC there are only two diz numbers for carburetted coupes. I have used both and can't tell the difference but then again I'm not a tuning freak.
That said, the best diz is one that isn't worn out, and your diz drive, all the way back to the crank sprocket, should be considered. Obviously, a perfect diz won't do as much for a motor with a tired cam chain, worn out tensioner rail, or worn diz drive gear.
There used to be diz rebuild kits but they may be NLA, I've not tried to source one. Maximilian, CNPR, Mesa?
You can check the wear in the total diz drive by installing a diz, static timing it to TDC, then running the engine at idle. Assuming the engine is running smoothly, the timing mark should not jump around when you shine a timing light on it. I've put my light on a new factory (2002) engine and it was steady as a rock, whereas most of us by now have "a bit" of variation in our timing.
BTW, a Crane, Allison or Pertronix won't make much (diddley-squat ?) improvement to the accuracy of your ignition timing if there's wear in the drive system. Cam chain and timing rail, both replaceable items, might oughta be checked.
jhjacobs
Well-Known Member
...true, however, they do limit the timing change basically to timing chain wear which is minimal when compared to the wear seen by the little diz cam follower on the points (this is generally what drives the need to set timing every 10-15K)! Also, in my experience the most common long term wear problem after the points is the bushings in the diz. This will cause the cam lobes to wobble and give intermittent timing between cylinders when using points. The optical sensors that come with these kits are much more immune to this type of wobble (the wobble is mostly on axis as are the optical slots).