Hi all - thanks so much for your kind comments on my previous post in the general forum. Here is my story if you missed it: Link to thread
Photo album here: Google Photos
As I mentioned there - my 1972 3.0 CS is up for sale. Asking $22,500. I will attempt to do my best Rob Siegel here and be as thorough as possible in the interest of transparency and integrity. Please ask any questions you might have and I welcome anyone to come see it or set up a PPI. I will ship within the US at the buyer’s expense. DM me if interested. It will go to BaT in the next few weeks if not sold here (which I would greatly prefer, to sell to someone here)
Rust: As we all know, we better start here, and as such this part gets it’s own whole section with subcategories, so I will try to be methodical and describe each spot as best I can. I have also attempted to visually represent each problem area thoroughly in the photos. Here goes:
Inner Fenders – When I purchased the car, I immediately scraped off as much of the bitumen as I could easily get off without gouging the steel underneath to see what I was dealing with. I then treated them with POR-15 (I would have been a lot neater with this if I’d known it would remain this way for the next 11 years) The worst of what I discovered was in the passenger side rear hood gasket channel where there is a perforated area through the outer layer. As seen in the photos, this is hidden by the rubber which I pulled up. There are no other perforated areas but some bubbling at the the passenger headlight cover area and on the outer overlap next to the driver’s shock tower. I have tried my best to photograph the inner wheel well and surrounding areas, but if you want to see more I can take some videos thru the “secret passageway” opening in the wheel well. The glove compartment and fuse panel area look very good.
A-Pillar – The driver’s A-pillar paint was puckered so I scraped / wire brushed it off (again, I would not have done this if I’d known it would remain for a decade) and POR-15 went on.
Hood – Same for the 3 or 4 spots on the hood. The hood clearly has a thick coating of primer and paint and should be replaced or repaired. The hood is also kinked at the passenger side hood vent. It was apparently yanked on by someone in the past and buckled there, and has not been properly straightened out. It is also poorly aligned. The torsion support strut is rusted and broken off on the driver’s side.
Floors – front panels both need replacement. The rear driver’s side panel shows rust at the front outer corner, and the rear passenger’s side panel is solid. The driver’s side front is the worst with about a 3” x 1.5” perforation in one corner of the footwell as seen in the photos. It has been like this for as long as I have owned the car. I have never driven in wet conditions nor has the car been caught out parked in the rain more than two or three times in the last 11 years.
Rockers – I have not removed the covers since I purchased the car from the previous owner 11 years ago, but they are solid. There are a couple areas where the seam edge is bent / wavy from improper jack pad placement over the years and some surface rust where the paint was damaged there.
Lower / outer fenders – These appear to be in great shape. The front driver’s side has a small spot or two from dents / dings that are also pointed out in the photos.
Frame rails – Very solid with none but some minor surface rust from jack / lift spots over the years.
Doors – There is a spot on the driver’s door top where it meets the chrome window trim about the size of a fingernail, and a spot on the passenger door a bit larger. The interior trim has been out for service on both windows and there is no evidence that I have seen of any rust beyond those two spots.
Windshield / Window frames – the rear windscreen has a small bubbling spot on the right side as shown in the photos.
Trunk Lid – the trailing edge of the lid has a very small spot on the left corner as shown in the photos.
Roof – small flaws / spots pointed out in the photos.
Spare Tire Well / Gas tank area – Tempted to say “none” but may be some very minor surface rust / scuffing. Fuel tank is dented underneath and shows surface rust (as shown)
Rear Shock Towers – These were welded / repaired at some point in the past and are solid, but show some minor surface rust on the outside.
Rear Seat area – This area is very solid with no visible rust. (hooray)
Paint: This car was originally Malaga. It was painted blue-green metallic, and I am told this happened some time in the early 1990’s. The color is in the neighborhood of Tundra/ Agave and Turkis (realizing that is a broad range). I have no way of showing precisely how it compares to those colors, but it is closest to Tundra. Unfortunately I don’t have any record of who, what, when, or how it was done, except that it was probably done while owned by a previous owner in Idaho in the 90’s. The paintwork shows its age and has many imperfections, dings, scratches, finish flaws and inconsistencies etc. throughout. I won’t name each detail but I have tried to visually represent the car fairly and accurately in the photos. The paint looks OK from 15 ft. away and works fine on a driver, but I always wanted to repaint the hood (and A-pillar obviously), and I hope at the very least this will be done by the next owner if not a full-on strip & repaint.
Glass: The windshield is cracked from the base about ⅓ of the way up and needs replacement. Otherwise all the other glass is original and in good condition.
Chrome & Bright Alum.: There is some rust on the underside of the bumpers, and the window trim has some pitting. The anodized materials could be polished if desired. See photos.
Rubber: Most of the rubber is in good condition. The exception is the lower window seals on the doors, and the lower door sill trim rubber. These have cracked and need replacing.
Interior: The dash is cracked throughout. The wood is in overall good condition, only showing some slight delamination on the edges and a few split grains in the dash panel. This is shown in the photos. The front seats are vynil, and the rears are leather (porcine). This is because the rears were replaced at some point, but the replacements are also cracked in places. The drivers seat vynil is split on one seam as shown, and the passenger side egress lever cable(?) is broken. Otherwise the seats are in fair shape. Carpets are clean but frayed under the coco mats. The coco mats are new. The center console sides are secured, but the shifter surround is loose. The headliner and rear deck vinyl have flaws as shown in the photos. The side and door panels along with all armrest and lever trim are complete and in good condition. The trunk liner and elephant skins are in a generally decent condition but not perfect, toolbox and tools are missing.
Engine: This car has at some point had a replacement engine. I do not know the history behind this, as the records were not passed on to me or the previous owner. The new engine is a stock M30B30V, but has been upgraded with Weber 32/36 DGAV carbs and electronic ignition (Pertronix). An E28 oil filter adapter, a custom aluminum radiator (from Manny on this forum) and a 9 blade fan are fitted.
Transmission: According to the VIN, this car was originally an auto, and has been swapped to a 5-speed Getrag 265. The transmission shifts smooth and crisp in all gears. Clutch is new this year.
Service: The oil has been regularly serviced, valves have been adjusted and carbs tuned by Billy Revis (Motorsport Connections in Winston Salem, NC). Recent services include the following:
Known mechanical issues:
Tires – BF Goodrich Advantage TA 195/70/R14, <1000 miles, from 2017.
Wheels – Stock CS alloys, 14”. These have been repainted silver & clearcoated a few years back. Hubcaps and roundels refreshed last year.
I have a replacement dashboard upper if desired, but it needs to be recovered to be useful.
Please let me know of any questions or if you would like to see the car or send a representative just DM or text me at 919-649-ten-thirty
Thank you,
Travis Lintner
Photo album here: Google Photos
As I mentioned there - my 1972 3.0 CS is up for sale. Asking $22,500. I will attempt to do my best Rob Siegel here and be as thorough as possible in the interest of transparency and integrity. Please ask any questions you might have and I welcome anyone to come see it or set up a PPI. I will ship within the US at the buyer’s expense. DM me if interested. It will go to BaT in the next few weeks if not sold here (which I would greatly prefer, to sell to someone here)
Rust: As we all know, we better start here, and as such this part gets it’s own whole section with subcategories, so I will try to be methodical and describe each spot as best I can. I have also attempted to visually represent each problem area thoroughly in the photos. Here goes:
Inner Fenders – When I purchased the car, I immediately scraped off as much of the bitumen as I could easily get off without gouging the steel underneath to see what I was dealing with. I then treated them with POR-15 (I would have been a lot neater with this if I’d known it would remain this way for the next 11 years) The worst of what I discovered was in the passenger side rear hood gasket channel where there is a perforated area through the outer layer. As seen in the photos, this is hidden by the rubber which I pulled up. There are no other perforated areas but some bubbling at the the passenger headlight cover area and on the outer overlap next to the driver’s shock tower. I have tried my best to photograph the inner wheel well and surrounding areas, but if you want to see more I can take some videos thru the “secret passageway” opening in the wheel well. The glove compartment and fuse panel area look very good.
A-Pillar – The driver’s A-pillar paint was puckered so I scraped / wire brushed it off (again, I would not have done this if I’d known it would remain for a decade) and POR-15 went on.
Hood – Same for the 3 or 4 spots on the hood. The hood clearly has a thick coating of primer and paint and should be replaced or repaired. The hood is also kinked at the passenger side hood vent. It was apparently yanked on by someone in the past and buckled there, and has not been properly straightened out. It is also poorly aligned. The torsion support strut is rusted and broken off on the driver’s side.
Floors – front panels both need replacement. The rear driver’s side panel shows rust at the front outer corner, and the rear passenger’s side panel is solid. The driver’s side front is the worst with about a 3” x 1.5” perforation in one corner of the footwell as seen in the photos. It has been like this for as long as I have owned the car. I have never driven in wet conditions nor has the car been caught out parked in the rain more than two or three times in the last 11 years.
Rockers – I have not removed the covers since I purchased the car from the previous owner 11 years ago, but they are solid. There are a couple areas where the seam edge is bent / wavy from improper jack pad placement over the years and some surface rust where the paint was damaged there.
Lower / outer fenders – These appear to be in great shape. The front driver’s side has a small spot or two from dents / dings that are also pointed out in the photos.
Frame rails – Very solid with none but some minor surface rust from jack / lift spots over the years.
Doors – There is a spot on the driver’s door top where it meets the chrome window trim about the size of a fingernail, and a spot on the passenger door a bit larger. The interior trim has been out for service on both windows and there is no evidence that I have seen of any rust beyond those two spots.
Windshield / Window frames – the rear windscreen has a small bubbling spot on the right side as shown in the photos.
Trunk Lid – the trailing edge of the lid has a very small spot on the left corner as shown in the photos.
Roof – small flaws / spots pointed out in the photos.
Spare Tire Well / Gas tank area – Tempted to say “none” but may be some very minor surface rust / scuffing. Fuel tank is dented underneath and shows surface rust (as shown)
Rear Shock Towers – These were welded / repaired at some point in the past and are solid, but show some minor surface rust on the outside.
Rear Seat area – This area is very solid with no visible rust. (hooray)
Paint: This car was originally Malaga. It was painted blue-green metallic, and I am told this happened some time in the early 1990’s. The color is in the neighborhood of Tundra/ Agave and Turkis (realizing that is a broad range). I have no way of showing precisely how it compares to those colors, but it is closest to Tundra. Unfortunately I don’t have any record of who, what, when, or how it was done, except that it was probably done while owned by a previous owner in Idaho in the 90’s. The paintwork shows its age and has many imperfections, dings, scratches, finish flaws and inconsistencies etc. throughout. I won’t name each detail but I have tried to visually represent the car fairly and accurately in the photos. The paint looks OK from 15 ft. away and works fine on a driver, but I always wanted to repaint the hood (and A-pillar obviously), and I hope at the very least this will be done by the next owner if not a full-on strip & repaint.
Glass: The windshield is cracked from the base about ⅓ of the way up and needs replacement. Otherwise all the other glass is original and in good condition.
Chrome & Bright Alum.: There is some rust on the underside of the bumpers, and the window trim has some pitting. The anodized materials could be polished if desired. See photos.
Rubber: Most of the rubber is in good condition. The exception is the lower window seals on the doors, and the lower door sill trim rubber. These have cracked and need replacing.
Interior: The dash is cracked throughout. The wood is in overall good condition, only showing some slight delamination on the edges and a few split grains in the dash panel. This is shown in the photos. The front seats are vynil, and the rears are leather (porcine). This is because the rears were replaced at some point, but the replacements are also cracked in places. The drivers seat vynil is split on one seam as shown, and the passenger side egress lever cable(?) is broken. Otherwise the seats are in fair shape. Carpets are clean but frayed under the coco mats. The coco mats are new. The center console sides are secured, but the shifter surround is loose. The headliner and rear deck vinyl have flaws as shown in the photos. The side and door panels along with all armrest and lever trim are complete and in good condition. The trunk liner and elephant skins are in a generally decent condition but not perfect, toolbox and tools are missing.
Engine: This car has at some point had a replacement engine. I do not know the history behind this, as the records were not passed on to me or the previous owner. The new engine is a stock M30B30V, but has been upgraded with Weber 32/36 DGAV carbs and electronic ignition (Pertronix). An E28 oil filter adapter, a custom aluminum radiator (from Manny on this forum) and a 9 blade fan are fitted.
Transmission: According to the VIN, this car was originally an auto, and has been swapped to a 5-speed Getrag 265. The transmission shifts smooth and crisp in all gears. Clutch is new this year.
Service: The oil has been regularly serviced, valves have been adjusted and carbs tuned by Billy Revis (Motorsport Connections in Winston Salem, NC). Recent services include the following:
- Sachs clutch, bearing, output shaft seal, shift rod seal, flywheel, slave cylinder
- Mechanical fuel pump, fuel filter
- NGK 7832 spark plugs, Bosch ignition wires
- Guibo, Center Support & bearing
- Ball Joints, Tie Rods - inner, outer, and center link
- Diff & Trans fluid
- Engine & Trans mounts
Known mechanical issues:
- A/C compressor works, but interior A/C fan does not work. *Heater and outside air vent fan still works.
- Rear axle CV boot torn on drivers side.
- Front right brake caliper sticks occasionally (rarely but has happened to me twice now)
- Engine seeps (not drips) oil, I believe from the timing cover seal
- Passenger window gear in the sardine motor is stripped. I have a replacement gear. Rear windows tend to stick if not operated regularly, but work once freed up.
- Turn signal indicator switch works only if forced / held
- Rear struts are worn / noisy
Tires – BF Goodrich Advantage TA 195/70/R14, <1000 miles, from 2017.
Wheels – Stock CS alloys, 14”. These have been repainted silver & clearcoated a few years back. Hubcaps and roundels refreshed last year.
I have a replacement dashboard upper if desired, but it needs to be recovered to be useful.
Please let me know of any questions or if you would like to see the car or send a representative just DM or text me at 919-649-ten-thirty
Thank you,
Travis Lintner
