Need Sunvisor brackets

Gazz

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As it says.

I know that Coupe King has them but at $325 ......c'mon. That's $470 AU!

I tried making a pair from aluminium, ( the correct way to spell it ), however I'm no machinist so they look c**p.

I have the original brackets which are, of course, cracked and they won't take any of the glues I have tried. I.e. epoxy and plastic specific super glue.

So if any Fagins are out there with a horde of them? Err, make that - hoard.
 
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stphers

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Try some stuff called " Plastex " it is a powder that when mixed with the solution in the kit, turns to plastic. There is a plastercine type of material that helps to mold parts or sections when using the plastex. It comes in black, white or clear. I have repaired all sorts of items with it, bonds well with the original material. Sands nicely if you have to. I just wish that they made a red or orange color for fixing lens. Eastwood carries it Don't know about Australia. Worth a try compared to what new ones are worth
 

3nsahalee

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I've just finished rebuilding my old busted into pieces visor pivots using lacquer thinner as a primer and then Steve-o's Secret Sauce (water, baking soda, and super glue) as my bonding agent. Works amazingly well and after filing, sanding and paint they are looking great to me.
 
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Tony.dreamer

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I've just finished rebuilding my old busted into pieces visor pivots using lacquer thinner as a primer and then super glue and baking soda as my bonding agent. Works amazingly well and after filing, sanding and paint they are looking great to me.
Wow, super glue and baking soda??
How do you do that ? Do you mix it quick and use it to glue and fill the voids? What is the purpose of the Baking Soda ? May be more as a filler and stiffing agent??
 

3nsahalee

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Not sure of the physics involved but Steve-o's Secret Sauce creates a very hard plastic-like filler/binder. I primed the pieces with thinner on a q-tip. I then moistened the broken pieces with water and dipped/coated the edges in soda and injected the cyanoacrylate glue. Didn't try to do the entire part at once, just a crack or void at a time. Sets up really quick. Let cure for an hour and file/sand/reapply soda and glue as needed to fill voids.
Took a weekend for me to restore a couple sets of them but I saved big $$$. I still need to source the correct star lock washers for the metal pivot parts and the spring.

Hope this helps.
Steve
 
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Thomas76

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Check out bmwclassicparts.com
They don't reference BMW ## so it's a little unclear what is what.
 

Gazz

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Thanks all, I'll give the Plastex a go and if that fails, then try the baking soda. An alternative I thought of is to buy a plastic "blank" and make a bracket utilising the angle of the hole and a brass ferrule for the visor rod.
Re the star lock washer - have you considered threading the end of the visor rod where it exits the bracket and then use a nylock nut instead of the star lock? Have a look at the Coupe King repro' brackets, this is what they appear to have done for theirs.
 

3nsahalee

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upload_2018-12-27_18-47-17.jpeg


The results of my resto thus far. I’ll try to find the before pics, but trust me, totally cracked and actually missing some small pieces.

I also used a dremel to carve the screw holes on a couple. A little light bondo was used with some primer to get a nice surface. A few krylon for plastic coats and some super fine sand paper for a nice satin finish. I’m satisfied with em.

Ive also cleaned the corrosion n polished/treated the metal rods and the metal inserts n Springs and am close on the washers. They appear to be fairly readily available.
 
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Wladek

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The only problem is that parts from 3nsahalee photo will not fit straight e9 bolts, that have hex shape in place where metal part go into plastic.
One of mine was also broken, so new one was made with core.
20181228_115253.jpg
 
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3nsahalee

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The only problem is that parts from 3nsahalee photo will not fit straight e9 bolts, that have hex shape in place where metal part go into plastic.
One of mine was also broken, so new one was made with core.
View attachment 57416

The metal hex pieces are still embedded into mine. I built-up a layer of Steve-o's Secret Sauce at the top a bit to better secure it so they’re now a tad more rounded at the hole. The original rods fit and work perfectly.
 
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Wladek

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The metal hex pieces are still embedded into mine. I built-up the bonder at the top a bit to better secure it so they’re now a tad more rounded at the hole. The original rods fit and work perfectly.
Sorry, but i still don't understand that - how you made it, if the top/outer part of the genuine e9 bracket is the insert point of the hex?
Take a look at my e9 sunvisor.
20181228_155959.jpg
 

3nsahalee

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the hex 'socket' and the rod are separate pieces. the rod is intended to spin freely in the socket with it's slightly tapered section and the sockets appear to have had some old factory adhesive to help keep em in the plastic’s hole, and that had deteriorated on a few of mine too. Once they break free, they’re toast. my thought/theory after inspection of the several broken units that i have is that when corrosion sets into the socket and arm, it becomes too resistant to the constant torque and gravity forces. this is also a very thin wall of plastic at the top originally-- actually the bottom as they mount the other direction (where a lot of the load goes).

I 'buttered' a nice layer of Steve-o's Secret Soda Sauce over the top of the hex-socket to reinforce this area. So, in essence, Wladek, i could lightly flat-file the area around the entrance of the socket hole to expose the metal hex and achieve the exact same look as original but feel that i've greatly improved it's structural integrity with a more 'finished and refined' appearance as well.

i can foretell of yours slipping in there and getting buggered-up in due time and looks like it already has cracks developing. i would recommend you employing Steve-o's Secret Soda Sauce to improve them. With what i've learned from this exercise; get small paintbrush and get some water in between the metal and the plastic, work some soda into the hex crevices and then inject the super glue, wait a few minutes and lightly sand if needed --- that'll secure the heck out of it for sure.


May the traffic lights, road camber, and g-forces always be in your favour!
Steve
 
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