New Weber Carbs

Hi David, OK, I'll go through he manual step by step- Regarding the chokes, I would like to use the electric chokes; can I just substitute the electric for the water housings?

I also searched youtube but didn't come up with anything really useful.

Thanks
 
While I'm at it

I made a PDF of what I think will be the most helpful aspects of the Weber 32/36 DGAV and if someone wants to upload it to the tech info section that may be good too but I can't figure out how to do it. do I need to send the file to the admin?
 
The electric choke is a different housing. It's the white plastic part shown here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=97cymVP1Ygc

About $30 I think. You will need to plug the hoses on your water chokes because they arent used. You also need to run a (+) lead to each choke. There is an open connection in the wire harness on the drivers side--I can take a photo tomorrow.

More good stuff:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4v-Dn_G3YxA

I love this guy. Reminds me of a high school shop teacher:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ef6uwWcBbM
 
Hi David, is it acceptable to use the electric chokes from the old carbs. Also, agree with you about the "old shop teacher" couldn't see if he had a missing finger on one hand and a tattoo of "Mom" on his arm. Unfortunately the videos did not show the fast idle primary throttle valve opening adjustment and for that data under the DGAV in the Haynes manual it lists 6 different "series types" so I'm not exactly sure which pin to use?

The 2 different adjustments that are recommended for this carb before it is put on the manifold are: ?

Fast Idle Adjustment
Choke Valve Pull-down

Or is it Adjusting the throttle idling screw
Seating and setting the idle mixture screw
Secondary throttle adjustment.

Sorry, the manual is a little confusing on this- clear on allot of other stuff I don't need (yet) though.

Thanks,
 
I forgot you had electric chokes on the car. Yes you can transfer them. Let me get to my car and book later today and remember how I determined which series/setting to use.
 
OK. Page 69 section 8 was the key section for me.

Section 8.3. That's the tricky secondary throttle gap. Use your shiny new pin gauges to set that gap. Carl suggested loosening the butterfly retaining screws while adjusting the secondary butterfly set-screw to close the butterfly. Once closed, you can tighten the butterfly screws. Unfortunately those retaining screws are peened in and very soft.(if you bought the throttle shaft bearing kit I mentioned, you get new screws) Once you loosen them you need to replace them with fresh screws and Loctite. As another option, to set the gap I shined a flashlight down through the choke (carb upside down) and adjusted the set-screw until the light disappeared, mostly. This brought my flow rate through the secondary at idle to 3.5 kg/hr—the lowest it’s ever been. It also resulted in no vacuum signal at the S Port while at idle. This makes for a smooth idle.

Section 8.5 Fast idle. You need to refer back to page 49 . You need to know the series number for your carb. I cant find my notes but there is a number stamped into the base of your carb. What does it say ?
 
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