Newbie has a problem

[D B Couper]

I have just purchased Pete Schoenenberger's Agave 2800 CS through Murray Fowler and drove it most of the way back from California to Denver. It is a beautiful car and ran well until we got to Las Vegas NM where we stopped for the night. I was driving in front of my wife who was in the coupe, and when we stopped it was making an awful clattering racket. She had not heard the noise until we slowed from freeway speed so she couldn't tell me how long it had been going on. We took it to a shop in LV, where the mechanic and I agreed it sounded like the water pump at the front of the engine. I left the car, ordered the pump and fan clutch from Mesa Performance and the guy put the new parts on. The noise was still there, and it comes from lower in the block behind the water pump as best as I can tell. The car starts and other than the noise seems to run smoothly. We couldn't solve the problem so I towed the car home on Saturday and am now looking for: 1) Some diagnostic help, 2) a recommendation for a qualified person in the Denver area to work on an old BMW (all the shops I've called don't want to touch any car prior to 1986 or so), and 3) any other coupe folks in the area who might want to share a drink, a story, or a drive

Thanks to all who have taught me a lot about these cars while I have been lurking for several months.

 

[x_atlas0]

In the block? Have you checked the chain tensioner? Very quick and cheap fix. Takes all of 10 min to do, runs about 40$ if you get all of the parts for it new. Hopefully it isn't the chain guides, as that is a much more complicated fix. Could be your oil pump as well, but that is significantly lower than the water pump, while the tensioner is in the same general area.

 

[D B Couper]

Thanks, Atlas,

Now, can you give me a link to a part view and/or a guide through the process? And did you mean the oil pump is lower than the WATER pump?

 

[x_atlas0]

Thanks, Atlas,

Now, can you give me a link to a part view and/or a guide through the process? And did you mean the oil pump is lower than the WATER pump?

Diagram:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=3435&mospid=47811&btnr=11_2442&hg=11&fg=25

You will need parts 10-14. It is the large bolt sticking out to the header side of the front lower timing cover, seen here:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=3435&mospid=47811&btnr=11_2435&hg=11&fg=10

And yeah, sorry, the water pump is higher than the oil pump. I'll change that now.

 

[gazzol]

How does the motor sound when the engine is stone cold (and the engine oil is thick)? If it is better then x_atlas0 s diagnosis could be correct, however it is my experience that the hydraulic side of the tensioning system rarely fails suddenly (I sincerely hope I'm wrong) never the less (assuming the noise is the timing chain) if one of the guide rails has broken up it isn't the end of the world a competent mechanic should be able to complete the entire job in less than 3 hours I don't know what labour rates are like in America but here in the UK that would average out somke where between £100-£150 plus parts.

 

[TodB]

Denver area mechanic

PM sent on mechanic reccommendation

 

[D B Couper]

Well, the newbie is learning!

I was able to enroll a mechanic at our local BMW dealer who knows the M30 engines to do a little "Moonlight" work and come by my home after work this evening. He brought a stethoscope to find the exact source of the noise so he could order parts and work this coming Saturday. I started the car with fear and trepidation, hoping I wasn't doing mortal damage. It made the awful clatter I knew too well and he listened and moved the scope around a bit gave me the "cut" motion and all was quiet.

He said, "I think your engine is fine. It sounds like the A/C compressor. Are you willing to cut the belt and see if it is quiet?" I agreed, got a pair of ships, cut the belt and gingerly started the engine. Sweet and smooth as a new car! I was thrilled. Now I need to research the archives to see about converting to a rotary compressor and R134. In the meantime, I will just be driving my lovely new sounding car.

Thanks to all who gave me your thoughts. I'm a bit embarrassed that I couldn't tell where the noise was coming from, but as I said...I'm learning.

 

[TodB]

AC

Yank the compressor and be done with it or leave it in. Go drive! You really don't need AC in Colorado

 

[jmackro]

Oh, I disagree with TodB. The coupe has so much glass area, that even on a cool day, the interior can get pretty toasty.

The stock A/C can be made to work pretty well, even with a reciprocating compressor. However, if your old compressor is shot then sure, replace it with a Sanden (or whatever).

Congrats on your new coupe, and on dodging the blown engine bullet.

 

[blumax]

Sometimes the obvious escpes us

I believe it necessary to clear any doubt as to the condition of the Coupe that I delivered in the less than positive report given in the first posting above. Commentary with my name used may be understood there was careless prepping of that car for a long road trip--now that it's in the hands of the newcomer to E-9's--I must go on record as there may be questions as to what he received from me.

When the buyer was considering this FINE coupe he was informed that the A/C wasn't working and hadn't been charged or otherwise operated for several years. I had recommended either a re-built original York or an upgrade to a Sanden--the recommended fix was declined and deferred to some future date that he would handle.

BTW--this Coupe had every service record from new--an extremely rare find with a 37 year old car with 150,000 documented original miles--records included rebuild of the head and miscellaneous other items performed within the past 5,000 miles. I had personally driven this Coupe some 250-300 miles--it ran flawlessly--my BMW mechanic of thirty years experience with my Coupe and many others--and with me by his side beneath and above this car had carefully examined all systems and they were prounounced sound and roadworthy for the 1200 or so miles to Colorado. Perhaps we should have cut the belt thus preventing this problem from occuring--so much for hindsight.

Another thought--now we know that it was the compressor clutch objecting to the road trip--speculation--perhaps someone turned on the fan switch for the A/C thus engaging the compressor clutch--in this 1971 Coupe there is no printed ID on the console for system controls--perhaps his wife thought the fan switch was for the heater fan being new to the car and its controls--in high country in New Mexico and temparatures were very fresh--otherwise difficult to understand how the compressor clutch would start rattling without being engaged--of course stranger things have happened!

Just wanted everyone to know of the careful preparation that is given all Coupes before delivery to a new owner--it's the same treatment I give the BLUMAX!!

 

[D B Couper]

Murray's Credibility

He's 100% right. I declined to spend the money up front, preferring to live without A/C for a while and budget for a major expense. The car is EXACTLY as represented.

OTOH, I don't think I gave any indication that it wasn't a great car or that I wasn't happy. I was just concerned and confused. Easy, big fella! :lol: :lol:

 

[Sooner]

Dener Area Indy

You might want to check with Autoworks Colorado, 303-932-9990, has knowledge of coupes. Also good collector in the Springs, Bill Young. Welcome to coupsters! I am in NW NM is you get back this way, would like to get together some time.