Saw this on Facebook, they are reproducing this bearing for those wanting to rebuild their 5 speeds. NMNA
NLA Getrag 265 bearing reproduced
- Thread starter Stevehose
- Start date
What has me worried......
They don’t write the part number correctly and the describe the tranny completely wrong-
They don’t write the part number correctly and the describe the tranny completely wrong-
Correct part number, wrong diagram?
RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog
BMW parts 5' E12 528i Getrag 265/6 gear wh.set parts/R.bearing
www.realoem.com
Bosozoku
Active Member
How hard its it to remove the original bearing? Tools required?
Wrong discription..
No such thing as Getrag 265/6 close ratio OD.....
No such thing as Getrag 265/6 close ratio OD.....
They screwed up the first sentence.
Their post is wrong and right. The bearing they are showing is for the 265/6 (23 12 1 209 323), and is rather complex due to the step in the outer casing, as well as being NLA. If they are in fact selling a replacement for 145€, I would consider that a pretty good deal. The bearing for the 265/5 (23-12-1-205-197) is still available from BMW for about $85.
Well their heart is in the right place. We all know what it is for. The price seems fair.
I’ve been following this shop on FB. I sold them some parts recently. I think that their scene points are tight and they have mad instagram cred. Someone from BE will need to chime in on their restoration and fab skills.
I’ve been following this shop on FB. I sold them some parts recently. I think that their scene points are tight and they have mad instagram cred. Someone from BE will need to chime in on their restoration and fab skills.
FYI- going rate for those bearings NOS is 380.00
None of mine are for sale. Pure unobtanium.
None of mine are for sale. Pure unobtanium.
Technically they are now made of reobtanium.
Aside here- if you try to order part #
231 212 093 23 from a parts counter you might get smacked on the side of your head and rightly so.
The cadence is 23 12 1 209 323
231 212 093 23 from a parts counter you might get smacked on the side of your head and rightly so.
The cadence is 23 12 1 209 323
I removed this bearing without special tools and it was a BIG challenge. First I tried to weld some steel brackets to the bearing in order to get a good grip for an extractor, but this failed because the bearing metal cracked around the weld. Then I started to cut very carefully in the bearing with a grinder and remove parts of the bearing piece by piece (also using a hammer and chisel). I would not recommend anyone to use this method because it is very easy to destroy the gear shaft. Metal chips and bits from the bearing will also enter the gearbox. I had to flush the gearbox several times to make sure no metal particles were left inside.
There is a special tool for this purpose but I don't know the availability and price.
Pulling bearings from a transmission case is pretty straight forward. Steel bearing inside an aluminum case. Aluminum expands very quickly with heat. It melts at 1,200 degrees and a propane hand torch gets to 3,000. You can stick the case in a gas grill or oven if you want to pull all bearings at once, or quickly pull one with a torch. That is how I’ve done it anyway.
I’m sure some on here will say that something will get ruined etc. It takes very little heat to get the aluminum to expand...
Just watched this vid. You don’t need to freeze the bearings.
I’m sure some on here will say that something will get ruined etc. It takes very little heat to get the aluminum to expand...
Just watched this vid. You don’t need to freeze the bearings.
markos has it
hot and cold works every time
thats how they put them together
hot and cold works every time
thats how they put them together
The aluminium case is not a big deal. The bearing is very loose and heat is almost not required.
It is the bearing connection to the gear wheel which causes the problem. You need force to pull it off the rod. (as long as you don't dismantle the whole gear box)
The above comments and video are not relevant in this particular case, they only demonstrate common sense without detailed knowledge of the specific problem.
From my experience I recommend everyone to use specially developed tools for this purpose.
It is the bearing connection to the gear wheel which causes the problem. You need force to pull it off the rod. (as long as you don't dismantle the whole gear box)
The above comments and video are not relevant in this particular case, they only demonstrate common sense without detailed knowledge of the specific problem.
From my experience I recommend everyone to use specially developed tools for this purpose.
Last edited:
I love that observation, common sense without detailed knowledge almost defines me to perfection 
.
I was thinking of heating the aluminum with my espresso and just yank out the bearing. Who can be the guinea pig to try these bearings and the replacement method. DQ? SFDon? Where are you?
.I was thinking of heating the aluminum with my espresso and just yank out the bearing. Who can be the guinea pig to try these bearings and the replacement method. DQ? SFDon? Where are you?
You are correct @Henrik. I don't have specific working knowledge of the G265 internals, and perhaps should have avoided commenting. In retrospect, like most days I didn't put much brain power behind my response. While the comments and videos may be common sense for some, I suspect that a good bit of folks on this site have never pulled a race or bearing from a rotor, let along a transmission. Some may find the video useful and interesting. I wasn't trying to dismiss your efforts or speak out of turn. When I rebuilt my O20 5spd I had to make a number of special tools, including a case-splitter and extend the jaws on my puller. Most two jaw pullers have little bars that serve as the pivot point. If you make the longer you keep the teeth on the jaws straight, providing better engagement and the ability to reach otherwise inaccessible components. This is also common sense to some and likely still inapplicable to the topic at hand, but perhaps helpful nonetheless. Likewise, avoiding an angle grinder on gearbox internals is common sense to many, but posting a disclaimer is equally helpful.
Aussiecsi
Well-Known Member
...saw those tools and thought you must be an amateur gynaecologist !
Unfortunately the seller still thinks that he made the dogleg bearing, which is still available from BMW. It’s great that he made some overdrive bearings, but he isn’t doing his business reputation any favors.
Now selling a rebuilt overdrive for $3,500, arguing that it is a dog leg.
Now selling a rebuilt overdrive for $3,500, arguing that it is a dog leg.