My car was running perfectly , did not start it for a week and then it would not start. Runs for a sec if I prime the carbs. I have pulled the lines and they are clear from the gas tank to filter, filter to pump input and on the output side of the pump to carbs. I cranked for 30 seconds a bunch of times and I got a little gas only. I pulled the pump bar which measures as you see here. I just don't believe that the bar of cam would be an issue all of a sudden. The fuel pump is a NOS Pierburg AG (the name is on it, not ground off) but I also tried the original pump which worked when I bought the car and a new spare I had, all with the same issue. No gas delivery. I just am hesitant to shave the spacer since this was abrupt and not a gradual thing.
No gas Delivery, Tried 3 Mech Pumps
- Thread starter bavbob
- Start date
Air leak in your fuel hoses, makes it very hard for the pump to draw gas.
in-carb micro filter jammed up with crud?
Stuck jet?
Fuel level sender tank screen clogged?
Fuel level sender tank screen clogged?
how old is that hose?
That is exactly what happened to as mentioned in the other thread on this subject. I tested mine “manually” and found the issue.
I would use new hose to the fuel pump from a fresh can of lawn mower gas. If you get no gas then focus on the pump and cam. Otherwise move back hose clamp by hose clamp until you find the problem section of your line.
Hoses are brand new, picture is of push rod, gas is fresh, car ran beautifully last week. All filters are new, tank was Por15 treated a few months ago by me. I can pull gas to the filter with suction so metal line to firewall it fine. Gonna go gas from an external can at the filter level and go from there.
Push rod doesn’t wear so don’t sand down the fiber block.
have you primed the pump ?
when i replaced my pump it did not work
i had to use a reservoir, filled with gasoline and install it higer that the pump
5 secs crank engine and that was ready
I had read a bunch of posts and one spoke of grinding down the spacer block so that is where the idea came from.
halboyles, thanks for the offer. I actually have the sender hose set up to fit without the sleeve and then I have a 6 to 8mm ( 4 to 6?) brass coupling to link it to the metal fuel line.
I think deQ may be right, I am going to put a vacuum on the output side of the pump (I have these catheter tip syringes which are good for tons of stuff like this) and prime the pump and go from there.
BTW: Are the senders on these cars accurate? My gut says they are just ok.
halboyles, thanks for the offer. I actually have the sender hose set up to fit without the sleeve and then I have a 6 to 8mm ( 4 to 6?) brass coupling to link it to the metal fuel line.
I think deQ may be right, I am going to put a vacuum on the output side of the pump (I have these catheter tip syringes which are good for tons of stuff like this) and prime the pump and go from there.
BTW: Are the senders on these cars accurate? My gut says they are just ok.
OK, primed the pump and started right up. Still confused since I have a non-return valve in line just after the filter and before the pump.
Installed backwards?
Or, carb float bowls leaked dry so lots of pumping needed to refill?
Weber carbs? If so, my car starts on the first quarter turn warm or cold except....if it has sat for a couple of weeks. Then it takes a lot of cranking to get fuel up to the carbs. I also have a non return valve. It didn't help that situation any. There is no sign of any fuel leakage from the carbs (at least externally). I either have to ensure I drive the car every week (a good thing) or put an electric pump in line to prime the carbs before turning the key.
good,
pumps are like that they need fluid to pump fluid, is like investing, you need money to make more money
Mike Goble
Well-Known Member
There's a thread here on this matter and one solution was to put a marine engine primer bulb in the line.
