Normal coolant temp versus guage reading/position?

I think the point of hole is that the system is self bleeding. BMW caught on a few years later and their thermostats came with the hole in it-
 

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Thank you, Dr. Ohmess, and your intimant coolant hose technique gave me a chuckle! I got the car back this morning after 3 hours at the shop. New thermo installed, along with proper rubber hoses and a new distributor rotor and cap - I'd swear there is ten more horsepower after the distributor component swap (is that possible?).

Anyway, with the proper spec thermostat that was drilled at the top, I now see only 3 pm to 3:15 on the coolant temp guage at 75 degrees outside, which is better than before but not where I was at pre-radiator swap. The actual temp at the water pump from the infra red reader was 170 degrees, plus or minus, which is good, right?

@ Don, for everyone's benefit here and to bring this saga to a happy ending, I think the only remaining culprit is my Ireland Engineering temp sending unit. I think I need to junk that for a proper sending unit (wish I had kept my previous one in there!). Question is, this is a single prong coolant temp configuration. Is an OEM spec 3.0L or 3.4L temp sending unit the issue here? And do I need to convert the single prong temp sending unit receiver to a multi unit prong I see in the later cars?

Wayne
 
Ooooh - Friday eve and the day is done.
Call me tomorrow !
 
Happy ending, thanks to my friend and trusted tech, Don. New correct temp sending unit and the car is back to where it was before - with some more power from the distributor cap and rotor, I swear. I found out the Ireland Engineering temp sending single prong guage is a $7.50 part (Demo 120-72-0572) and who knows what ohm spec is was designed for. But the new BMW FAE unit (31290) delivers the same dash gauge readings as before. Nice to move on from this radiator swap project that extended over too many months.
 
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