Not an E9 Build Thread. Bavaria Content within.

Stuck....

If you can rig up an air chuck from a compression testor and force air in along with the oil---- might do some good if it's stuck rings. It also might tell you which one(s). Air can also turn over the engine.

There is a manual- CS registry tab above- general information.

On the carbs- take the electircal off before dunking, but also the diaphrams- choke and secondary.
 
Yes cap at the "T" but more importantly cap at each carb manifold and check to ensure no vacuum leaks there when the carbs are back on.
 
Yes cap at the "T" but more importantly cap at each carb manifold and check to ensure no vacuum leaks there when the carbs are back on.
Okay sounds good! If the 3.0 ever turns over :???:
If you can rig up an air chuck from a compression testor and force air in along with the oil---- might do some good if it's stuck rings. It also might tell you which one(s). Air can also turn over the engine.

There is a manual- CS registry tab above- general information.

On the carbs- take the electircal off before dunking, but also the diaphrams- choke and secondary.
That's a fantastic idea! Thank you so much for the help :)

Small update of today's events.
Just picked up a 1986 535i 5 speed parts car. I'm planning on yanking the engine/trans next weekend after I get some maintenance done on the VW.
Should be an interesting time. My uncle that works on E30's mostly said that the speedo drive cable is in the rear differential for the E30. Can anyone confirm that on my Bavaria? If so that would totally rock. I could put the 5speed in it then!
Pictures of the 3.5 to come soon. The 3.0 is still not moving. I'm pretty well given up on it. I really wish it would come around. Then I could build the 3.5 to turbo specs. All in good time though.

535iengine.jpg


535ioutside.jpg


535iodometer.jpg


Stole all of these pictures from garethashenden (ultimate bimmerforum), who I bought the car from, great guy! Its currently not as complete as in the pictures but you get the idea.
 
Your Bavaria has a mechanical speedometer. The 535 (and E30s) have electronic speedometers driven by a sensor on the differential. Those differentials are not easily interchangeable with your Bavaria.
 
Ah okay. Good to know. Maybe I can find someone that wants to trade my 260 for a 265 lol. The engine bay looks pretty messy in the 535. I'm not sure if it's just because it was partly taken apart already or if someone put in aftermarket wires in to support amps/speakers/fog lights. We will see, hopefully gunna pull the whole engine/trans (best to keep them together right?) this weekend.
 
Someone linked this thread to the Senior Six Registry mailing list, and it awakened me from deep lurk mode...

My dear young man -- first, welcome to the madness that is old BMW ownership. You have taken the first step on a journey that will expose you to anguish, joy, fear, excitement, heartbreak, exaltation, and bankruptcy (sorry, no upside for the financial part). Think of it as an elixir of Don Quixote and Ken Kesey's Merry Pranksters mixed with a portion of Click and Clack and a heaping spoonful of Grapes of Wrath. Hallucinogens optional but highly recommended.

And kudos to the koopers who have encouraged you. There is no higher and better use of the labor of man than probing the inner mysteries of a disused and abandoned e3. There are no disused and abandoned e9's; only "highly collectible project cars" and "rust free examples". And in case anyone has forgotten, let me quote from the Tao of Tony on the subject of rust -- "In the context of an old BMW of any kind, the term 'rust free' does not imply a lack of rust -- it merely confirms that all the rust present is included at no extra charge."

I engage you now because someone must impart the truth. As is often the way, it falls on the elders of the tribe. Speaking of which, where the hell is Murray? I saw Riblett chime in, but he's a mere plebe in comparison to Murray. And far too nice to tell you what I will.

I direct your attention to this picture:

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z246/gunmetalgreen/BMW Bavaria/cee30de4.jpg

And now allow me to ask a question -- are you proficient at metal fabrication? Do people regularly compliment your finesse at welding 20 gauge mild steel? How is your work on an English wheel?

If your answers to these questions are "very", "every day" and "better than Ron Fournier", I will resume my lurk and enjoy watching as you resurrect this Baikal jewel.

If your responses were more on the order of "I made a dustpan in shop class", "no", and "English what?", then I have a further question -- do you have $10,000 that you would happily pile in the middle of your driveway and set on fire?

If the answer to that question is "no", then you need to do the following -- STOP WORKING ON THE ENGINE. IMMEDIATELY.

Before I continue, let me provide some context. I started wrenching when I was in my early teens, working on tractors and other equipment on our family farm (contrary to rumors, I am not old enough to have driven a plow behind a stegosaurus). I successfully used an Italian car for a daily driver for the better part of a decade. I have owned at least one of every BMW variant built between 1969 and 1988 (and a smattering of newer ones), using most as regular transportation. When I left the US in late 2009, I cleaned out my garage and sold/donated/junked enough parts to build 3 complete M30 engines. I'm currently restoring a Land Rover Defender that lived in the Orkney Islands for the last 6 years. The pile of rust created when I cut the rot out the Land Rover frame was deep enough to bury a mature Labrador.

I say this to establish that I am not a nancy-boy checkbook mechanic who trembles at the sight of a rust bubble.

On an e3 (and even more so on an e9), rust is like a ****roach -- see one, you have 10,000. The condition of the front shock tower says all you need to know about the condition of the rest of that car. If the shock towers are gone, then rockers are certainly gone. There is no unit left in the unit body. I love e3's, so it pains me to say this, but that shell isn't worth saving. You'll invest another 100 hours getting the engine running, fixing the brakes, and dealing with myriad other mechanical issues. Then you'll set forth with a light heart on your inaugural drive, and innocently cross a set of railroad tracks at 19 mph. You will later wonder how it was possible that something which appeared so solid could disappear in a whirl of blue and orange dust, leaving you sitting in the middle of the road surrounded by a Dali-esque arrangement of BMW mechanicals draped in Tobacco vinyl.

Here's the good news -- you have what appears to be a relatively original and unmolested e3 parts car. Ignore the sheet metal. How are the front seats? The dash top? Look at those rear fender covers -- not a crack, not a hole! Do all you can to keep them intact. What I can see of the bumpers and brightwork looks good. All glass looks good. You don't have a gold mine, but you do have a pile of parts that someone will want. And you're on the east coast, where most e3's that are not in the hands of enthusiasts are in junkyards, stripped to the bones.

Alternately, if you want an e3 (and who wouldn't?!), you have all the parts to take a shoddy but less rusty example and make a nice car. And a shoddy running one can be had for a quite reasonable price -- a fraction of what you'd spend trying to save the one you have.

PM me and I'll give you the email address you need to join the S6R mailing list. You can bounce options off the members there and decide how to proceed.

Now, STOP WORKING ON THE ENGINE. IMMEDIATELY.
 
The reason

My dear Velocewest,
Yours is, perhaps, the most amusing & truthful (and beautifully written) post I have ever read on E9coupeareyououtofyourmindwhydontyoubuyanicetoyota.com. We coupsters (srry) share so much with the initiates of fight club. We endure months of hardship and abuse on the porch to be allowed to enter the halls of more hardship and abuse. But it's a quest, and we all love the same lady. She's a harsh mistress, fickle and expensive. But then there are those late autumn days, leaves swirling as you wend down a country road to the rhapsody of 3rd gear opening up, and it all seems worthwhile.
-ElRey
 
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Tony said:

"In the context of an old BMW of any kind, the term 'rust free' does not imply a lack of rust -- it merely confirms that all the rust present is included at no extra charge."

That's classic but yet so true.

G-Man
 
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"In the context of an old BMW of any kind, the term 'rust free' does not imply a lack of rust -- it merely confirms that all the rust present is included at no extra charge."

I met a very proud new coupe owner at a BMWCCA Oktoberfest. He had just imported the car from Italy and was telling everyone that it was the most rust-free coupe in the USA. I asked if I could take a look at it, and pulled out handfulls of rusty sand from the pockets in the fenderwells. He was not very happy and asked me to leave.

All coupes have rust, it is just a matter of how much.
 
Decision time

Since you have the car and if in a moment of lucidity you make the difficult decision that the gross national product of any third world country (Canada for instance) would be required to make it perfect (or even good....decent....ok...) then my advice - taking a cue from Tony - is to take the car apart. Inside and out. Top to bottom. That includes the engine, trans mission and rear diff. See how everything works and what is worn out.

Separate every component, undo every nut and bolt, drill out every spot weld and create two piles - one of useable and valuable (you won't believe how the sum of the OEM BMW pieces is worth so much more than the whole thing currently is) parts and the other pile that is .....rust. Put the cleaned useable parts aside and sweep the rest of the pile into a dust bin and toss it.

You will also learn an incredible amount about how these things are put together and have a prefect starting point for a resto rebuild reconstruction of a less porous chassis.

Or just continue on with the valiant attempt to make this car work if not right.

Best of luck,

Doug
 
I'm currently in the middle of finals and have had very little time to look at the tread until now.
My first reaction was a bit upset that nobody had faith in the Bavaria, but as I read on and thought about it you kind fellows are most likely right.
Your right I didn't know what an English wheel was, I just googled it, very cool. I want one. I think my welding is up to par but that's only part of the battle. Money is the other part. Seeing how I'm only a part time dispatcher for a local police department and I'm still in school, money isn't exactly rolling in.
So today on my one day off, I started looking at rusty areas. I took a video, which will be uploaded later. The rust isn't Swiss, but defiantly northeastern.
As for taking it all apart, I'm not really sure
A. What pieces are worth
B. Where I'm going to store and lable all of these parts
C. Should I post them for sale on this site? Or craigslist? Ect.
It's kind of sad that this car will be stripped, I really wanted to drive it. The chances of me ever owning a Bavaria again are slim to none, or any other BMW for that matter. So I guess I will continue this thread but as more of a tear down, not a build. Thanks for all of the replies and help. I have yet to find any other forum that is this helpful and responsive to questions. Great group of guys.
 
If it wasn't for that really nasty looking patch of rust on the inside of your fender you could consider just driving it the way it is but that rust isn't gonna hold together for long once you hit the road. As for parting it out,there doesn't seem to be much of a market for used Bavaria specific items as you can buy new cheaply.They made 9 times as many Bav's as coupes and I guess there are lot's of parts left in warehouses.Check E-bay for what stuff sells for.Parts that are common to coupes and Bav's include most everything under the hood,trans,pedal assembly,the headlight buckets and grilles,center grill,side marker lights,inside and outside rearview mirrors,various electrical relays under dash,inside dome light,heater assembly and blower,NOT center console and climate controls,front armrests,seat rail "chrome"cover,trunklid toolbox,roundels,wheels,rear brake calipers,headrests,nuts,bolts,chrome trim screws and probably a few other things I can't think of right now.Try starting with an ad on this site,e-bay and craigslist.Try not to take stuff off car until someone requests it,easier to store stuff on car then you know right where it is.Good luck and check out E-bay for running Bavarias,they sell for a lot less than coupes.
 
Thought of a couple more,door ashtrays,front door panel map pockets,all four doorjam door latch catches,rear axle shafts,various front suspension and steering components.
 
I was liking this thread. But then the illuminati took all the fun out of it. I've brought several cars back to life in the past and learned alot each time. I bought a non-running coupe 2 years ago that I hoped to get running but have since gone to a fuel injection/5 speed swap. Personally I would not have attempted to rescue this Bavaria. Most of us have learned that lesson the hard way. But at the same time I woud not be so presumtuous as to tell someone what they should do with their time and money. If they asked my advise I would give it. Especially the part about rust. Although I would not pat myself on the back if I found rust on someone else's car if he/she did not ask me to look for it.

Why should I care if someone wants attempt to restore a car that is not really worth restoring? It happens all the time. I've seen Opel Kadets get the frame off treatment. They're neat cars but not worth a nut and bolt resto. I'm sure most restored cars are not worth the money spent on a professional restoration. The good thing is that someday we may be lucky enough to buy someone else's restoration.

This is a great board and I have gotten great information on restoring my coupe that I could not have gotten anywhere else.

But sometimes the worst advise is unsolicited advise.

John M
 
In his first post he stated he was a full time college student, attempting to restore this particular Bav could bankrupt anyone. I shuddered when I saw the photos but said nothing but felt guilty for keeping quiet. We were all young and naive at one time and could have profitted from such wise advise, even though unsolicited.
 
The chances of me ever owning a Bavaria again are slim to none, or any other BMW for that matter.

Seriously? The first time your favorite line got you nowhere, did you say "the chances of me getting laid again, or having any kind of sex, are slim to none"? Man up, junior.

If you can afford any car, you can have another Bavaria. My advice was not intended to discourage you, it was intended to help you avoid getting discouraged by a project that is going to cost more than you want to, or possibly can afford to spend.

PM me, join the S6R, you'll get advice, encouragement and entertainment. As the saying goes -- come to the dark side, we have cookies...
 
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