Nut & Bolt manufacturers; anyone know original brand(s)?

eriknetherlands

eriknetherlands

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Hi,

risking being judged as a 'nut' myself her....

in the process of dismantling and replating stuff, I noticed that a lot of nuts and bolts have different manufacturer marks. It could be original equipment, but likely some have been replaced with generic things.

Anyone on the board here knows which brands are genuine?

I have spotted:
'FBA' on the 4 M8 bots with a flat side that connect the prop shaft to the differential
'Verbus' on the 20 cm long knurled bolt that holds the rear subframe from under the rear seat.
Other brands found as well...

any insights are welcome.
Erik.
 
Bultaco motorcycles had the brand on the bolt head, so if you restore one of those you have to get Bultaco bolts, cars are so easy :)
 
deQuincey said:
bultaco, seriously, ar they any good ? ;)
Click to expand...
Yes they are. Spanish I believe.

A friend's father was restoring an early WW II Ford Jeep. Actually the oldest known outside the Ford museum. He went through many buckets of bolts looking for OEM ones with a script F on the head.
 
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Erik -- I do not think you are a nut. I have become concerned about how frequently I need to check and clean up the threads on new screws, bolts and nuts. And I try not to buy Chinese because I don't trust the metallurgy.

So, I started saving used fasteners earlier this year and will continue to do so.
 
deQuincey, I am surprised, they were made in Spain from 1958 to 1983
Debatably the best dirt bikes of the early 70's
 
Bultacos were quite well known in the US in the 70's, I had one
Part of their fame in the US was that the first American to do well in motocross rode Bultaco
 
Other two brands identified are:

'Graeka' on the 6 bolts M10 or M12 *56 mm that bolt through the guibo,
'Kamax' on M6*80 bolts holding the rear subframe bushings to the subframe.

Now i don't have a clue what is original. Anyone?

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G800F met Tapatalk
 
Hello Erik,

VERBUS, GRAEKA and KAMAX were very common hardware brands from West Germany in the 1960s and 1970s.

The VERBUS and INBUS brands were products of Bauer & Schaurte, Neuss-Rhein...
VERgütete Außensechskantschraube Bauer Und Schuarte
INnensechskantschraube Bauer Und Schaurte

The GRAEKA brand was a product of Graeka Schraubensicherungen GmbH & Co. KG, Eppertshausen

The KAMAX brand was a product of KAMAX-Werke Rudolf Kellermann GmbH & Co. KG, Homberg (Ohm)

Here is another one for you, from my windshield wiper motor-
The KNIPPING brand, a product of Knipping Verbindungstechnik GmbH, Kierspe

DSCN0912.JPG
 
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Ahh Bultaco, thank you for that. I grew up in NY, 15 miles outside Manhattan and yet we all had dirt bikes and 500 acres of woods to ride them in. Why someone realized the property was worth millions, I will never know. Now condos and nothing to go back to.
 
So i'll try to pull it back into serious things ;-)

Overview:
'FBA 10.9' on the 4 M10 bolts (part No 26111101015) with a flat side that connect the prop shaft to the differential
'Verbus' on the 20 cm long knurled bolt (Part no 33323628167) that holds the rear subframe from under the rear seat.
'Graeka' on the 6 M12 *56 mm bolts (PartNo 27101220647) that go through the guibo( =universal joint),
'Kamax' on M8*50 bolts (part No 07119912517) holding the rear subframe bushings to the subframe.
"KNIPPING 8.8"on 3 M6*20 (part no 07119913016) windshield wiper motor bolts
 
mark99 said:
Bultacos were quite well known in the US in the 70's, I had one
Part of their fame in the US was that the first American to do well in motocross rode Bultaco
Click to expand...
Bill Bailey as i remember in the early 70's was a factory rider. cooler than their motocross bikes were their trials bikes.
 
Identified new one:

'FBA 8.8' on the 4 M10*18; (part No 07119904033) bolts that hold the rear central differential to body rubber damper. pic included.


Overview, inc above:
'FBA 10.9' on the 4 M10 normal thread bolts (part No 26111101015) with a flat side that connect the prop shaft to the differential.
'Verbus' on the 20 cm long knurled bolt (Part no 33323628167) that holds the rear subframe from under the rear seat. Normal thread.
'Graeka' on the 6 fine thread 10.2 strength class M12 *56 mm bolts (Part no 27101220647) that go through the guibo (=universal joint).
'Kamax' on M8*50 normal thread bolts (part no 07119912517) holding the rear subframe bushings to the subframe.
"KNIPPING 8.8"on 3 M6*20 normal thread(part no 07119913016) windshield wiper motor bolts.
'FBA 8.8' on the 4 M10*18 normal thread; (part No 07119904033) bolts that hold the rear central differential to body rubber damper.
 

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i think BMW had every year ? signed contracts with bolt/nut manufactures as long quality/price/delivery was good ?
 
You could very well be right Barry.
As other chime in, we may just find out if they did or did not change year to year.

First part of that exercise is trying to establish what was in my car. (3.0 CS, Produced May '73 & delivered to Switserland)
 
When restoring a car – you must check that the bolts are the correct strength.

Do not think all bolts are the same tensile strength.

Metric bolts are usual Grade 8.8 - 50-55 Tons/ square inch

But suspension and critical ones like the prop etc are 10.9 or 12.9 – not sure what that is in tons/sqinch as they have a higher sheer strength.


So, you have either

8.8

10.9

12.9



Also, your standard metric bolt has a course thread and also available in fine thread….

You can generally identify the strength of the bolt head – but I would have a look on the net as well.

Now if you get into imperial – with UNF – UNC – BSF- Witworth etc – and start looking for the individual manufacture for your car – like I did for my Xk150 – your head will drop off….

if you look at the picture below - the bolts look the same but 2 are different grade - when I was building up my suspension (XK150)I had to check and double check that the right ones go in - you don't want a bolt shearing mid corner !
9d832e430f99cb64c975464235b858e0.jpg
 
I heard that if you get bolts re plated, you should wait a month before torquing them as they will be weak until the hydrogen dissipates out or some such thing.
Any chemical and metallurgical experts ,please chime in.
Friend had a Bultaco 360 that was always trying to kill him. Loved their fuel tanks .
 
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