pamp
Well-Known Member
Just curious...I picked up a junk 3.5 motor for next nothing. Has anyone converted to this filter arrangement for the M30? Is this "do-able"? As the current housing requires two people to do the filter change.
Oil filter housing
- Thread starter pamp
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steve in reno
Well-Known Member
Pamp
A top mount filter is the ticket.
It will make your life so much easier come next oil change. Only thing easier would be if you have an oil cooler and remote placement
Mine now takes a different filter than stock.
A cheap and easy upgrade.
I can't say that that model and year is the one that you need, but if bolt placement and porting line up, install it!
steve
A top mount filter is the ticket.
It will make your life so much easier come next oil change. Only thing easier would be if you have an oil cooler and remote placement
Mine now takes a different filter than stock.
A cheap and easy upgrade.
I can't say that that model and year is the one that you need, but if bolt placement and porting line up, install it!
steve
pamp
Well-Known Member
Oil Filter
Steve,
You read my alleged mind. A cooler is on the list. Any pics of what you are using? I guess I head to the shop now and proceed to make a big environmental disaster!
Steve,
You read my alleged mind. A cooler is on the list. Any pics of what you are using? I guess I head to the shop now and proceed to make a big environmental disaster!
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steve in reno
Well-Known Member
Pamp
I have what you pictured only.
There have been others on the forum that have used an oil cooler from another model. Try a search.
Sorry, not enough good info!
steve
I have what you pictured only.
There have been others on the forum that have used an oil cooler from another model. Try a search.
Sorry, not enough good info!
steve
pamp
Well-Known Member
Oil filters
After cleaning up the housing removed from the 3.5, I noted the "cheesy" relief valve arrangement internal to the housing. Skeptical to use this part on my engine as is, and possible the cause of the failure on the aforementioned "junk" 3.5. I researched a bit and found this...
http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Trouble/OilCanister.htm
After cleaning up the housing removed from the 3.5, I noted the "cheesy" relief valve arrangement internal to the housing. Skeptical to use this part on my engine as is, and possible the cause of the failure on the aforementioned "junk" 3.5. I researched a bit and found this...
http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Trouble/OilCanister.htm
Have the top mounted OFH on my coupe also. Sure makes oil changing a whole lot easier. Believe the top mounted housings were equipped on all non-oil cooler 6 series cars or possibly 5 series as well. Don't think the different housing from the later E34's as pictured will work.
If you want to install an oil cooler on a later date and want to retain the factory OFH, then you'll need the setup from an Euro 635/M635 or an US M6. The only caveat of this OFH is that due to the cooler's inlet and outlet hoses' setup, the mounting bolt was repositioned to the bottom of the canister again. Possibly will want to retrofit this oil cooler setup onto my coupe in the future.
If you want to install an oil cooler on a later date and want to retain the factory OFH, then you'll need the setup from an Euro 635/M635 or an US M6. The only caveat of this OFH is that due to the cooler's inlet and outlet hoses' setup, the mounting bolt was repositioned to the bottom of the canister again. Possibly will want to retrofit this oil cooler setup onto my coupe in the future.
tochi
Well-Known Member
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I believe Pamp is describing yet a different filter housing than what you have on your engine. Pamp's filter assembly places the filter "above" the mounting point on the block where it is angled upward toward the steering pump reservoir.
In addition to reservations concerning the weak valving, I watched someone dry fit things and reject the idea due to clearance issues.
Changing filters is easier (cleaner) than either the top or bottom bolt housing versions (commonly found on E9s and E24s), but an oil change wouldn't be the same without the use of engine degreaser. :wink:
PAMP'S:
BERT'S:
pamp
Well-Known Member
Filter Housing
Thanks to all. Bert, it appears you are or were at the point I will go next...engine detail. I am sure curious as to the fuel rail is see in your picture. As I said, after examining the part from the 3.5 I rejected it for fear of oil pressure issues due to the plastic relief valve. Initial measurements seem to show it would work, but I never pulled my can to see for sure. Also, I can't say as to gaskets. I see at least three different styles in the parts schematics shown by tochi. I looks like with the housing Bert is showing, at least one can drop the can and reinstall without help from above. As well as ports for a cooler and therefore, the addition of a real pressure gauge.
One other thing. Bert, make sure to pull the coolant block for the aux. air valve. Mine was choked with corrosion and did not allow proper coolant flow to the temp. sensor. ECU was thinking "cold" and the engine ran way rich until I discovered this using an I.R thermometer. Best to check this now with the intake removed, might save work later.
Thanks to all. Bert, it appears you are or were at the point I will go next...engine detail. I am sure curious as to the fuel rail is see in your picture. As I said, after examining the part from the 3.5 I rejected it for fear of oil pressure issues due to the plastic relief valve. Initial measurements seem to show it would work, but I never pulled my can to see for sure. Also, I can't say as to gaskets. I see at least three different styles in the parts schematics shown by tochi. I looks like with the housing Bert is showing, at least one can drop the can and reinstall without help from above. As well as ports for a cooler and therefore, the addition of a real pressure gauge.
One other thing. Bert, make sure to pull the coolant block for the aux. air valve. Mine was choked with corrosion and did not allow proper coolant flow to the temp. sensor. ECU was thinking "cold" and the engine ran way rich until I discovered this using an I.R thermometer. Best to check this now with the intake removed, might save work later.
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pamp
Well-Known Member
oil filters
More questions for Bert...When I did a search I believe you said you would pull the can from the block to do the filter change (makes good sense) and had a hand full of extra gaskets. How do these compare as to the M6 can? I also see you have the 3.5 block. Mine is 3.3 Have you changed blocks since your post back in '06? The can in your picture looks the same as mine (only a lot cleaner!)
More questions for Bert...When I did a search I believe you said you would pull the can from the block to do the filter change (makes good sense) and had a hand full of extra gaskets. How do these compare as to the M6 can? I also see you have the 3.5 block. Mine is 3.3 Have you changed blocks since your post back in '06? The can in your picture looks the same as mine (only a lot cleaner!)
Hey Pamp, here are some answers to your questions.
The fuel rail is from the later L-jet cars. Supposedly, the tubular rail offers better fuel pressure for the injectors than the D-jet's smaller fuel rail. This system does require the removal of the D-jet's adjustable fuel regulator to the vacuum operated regulator. All the components of this conversion is a direct bolt on.
Good point on the coolant block for the aux. air valve, coolant residue can and will accumulate in there if it has not been cleaned in years. For ease of maintenance and removal of these switches, I've relocated them to the water thermostat housing from the later L-jet cars. Since both thermo-time switch and the engine temperature switch are both screwed on from above, no coolant is lost when working on these switches.
There may have been a misunderstanding about how oil is changed on my coupe. Just the normal method by removing the filter canister, drop the canister slightly, nudge a few hoses and remove from above. Some people do remove the filter housing from the engine block and they do claim this method is easier, but, I've my doubts. The oil filter used for both my coupe and M6 is the same. The filter comes with various rubber seals and copper crush rings, the only one needed is the crush ring for the mounting bolt.
The L-jet 3.5 engine was installed by the previous owner using the original D-jet fuel rail and injectors. I had installed the L-jet fuel rail due to some fuel leaks from the old system and the "supposed" better fuel pressure properties.
The fuel rail is from the later L-jet cars. Supposedly, the tubular rail offers better fuel pressure for the injectors than the D-jet's smaller fuel rail. This system does require the removal of the D-jet's adjustable fuel regulator to the vacuum operated regulator. All the components of this conversion is a direct bolt on.
Good point on the coolant block for the aux. air valve, coolant residue can and will accumulate in there if it has not been cleaned in years. For ease of maintenance and removal of these switches, I've relocated them to the water thermostat housing from the later L-jet cars. Since both thermo-time switch and the engine temperature switch are both screwed on from above, no coolant is lost when working on these switches.
There may have been a misunderstanding about how oil is changed on my coupe. Just the normal method by removing the filter canister, drop the canister slightly, nudge a few hoses and remove from above. Some people do remove the filter housing from the engine block and they do claim this method is easier, but, I've my doubts. The oil filter used for both my coupe and M6 is the same. The filter comes with various rubber seals and copper crush rings, the only one needed is the crush ring for the mounting bolt.
The L-jet 3.5 engine was installed by the previous owner using the original D-jet fuel rail and injectors. I had installed the L-jet fuel rail due to some fuel leaks from the old system and the "supposed" better fuel pressure properties.
Bill Riblett
(deceased)
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I changed from the original bottom bolt filter housings to the top bolt housings used from about 1975 on, figuring they would be less likely to leak. I have removed the whole housing to do filter changes for many years. Current list price for the gasket (p/n 11 42 1 730 264) is $2.87 - insignificant.