Oil leak from timing chain tensioner
- Thread starter Drew20
- Start date
Yes, Steve has it covered. A thin smear on the gasket. I tend to do all the surfaces, i.e. both sides of gasket and both metal surfaces.
An exception to the thin smear is at the junction corners of the timing cover, where lower cover meets upper cover meets block meets head. A small dollop is what the manual says IIRC
An exception to the thin smear is at the junction corners of the timing cover, where lower cover meets upper cover meets block meets head. A small dollop is what the manual says IIRC
Yes, I have used Hylomar on my S38 engine as it actually has two metal surfaces that mate together. Only way to seal is with Hylomar or similar.
My mechanic friend with 40 years of experience and a high end shop GCR here in metro Atlanta told me about Drei Bond for gaskets. Available from German parts stores. FCP. Pelican, Autohauz
They use it exclusively in their shop for all German cars.
I used it recently on my coupe engine and I'm pleased so far.
Also I've had luck with a Victor Reinz (the gasket company) product called Reinzoil. It' silicone but much better than the parts stores have.
HTH
Gary
My mechanic friend with 40 years of experience and a high end shop GCR here in metro Atlanta told me about Drei Bond for gaskets. Available from German parts stores. FCP. Pelican, Autohauz
They use it exclusively in their shop for all German cars.
I used it recently on my coupe engine and I'm pleased so far.
Also I've had luck with a Victor Reinz (the gasket company) product called Reinzoil. It' silicone but much better than the parts stores have.
HTH
Gary
Great suggestions here and while the subject of sealants can be tribal and contentious, I'll jump in anyway.
I absolutely despise oil leaks and seepages. I've been known to backslide into a full rebuild of a period Italian V12 (designed to leak?!) through the gateway of obliterating such mishaps.
After trying many sealants over the years, I have settled on Loctite 598 for gasketed joints. What I like: To date, 100% effective against leaks, pressurized can makes dispensing easy and accurate, not an acetic acid cure (hate that smell). I've used it on cam cover joints that sit below the level of resting oil --always submerged. No leaks.
I apply it on the gasket and smear it down to a light coating, tighten fasteners hand tight and finally after a few hours (partial cure) fully torque down. Here it is being used on the intake manifold coolant chamber:
I tried "The Right Stuff" gasket maker and while very strong and leak free, it was VERY, VERY strong and leak free. Too strong. I struggled for a loooong time to get the oil pan off the 1800. Bent it a little bit even. If you are *never* going back in , this is the nuclear option.
I used Hylomar for a while and I liked that it's non-setting and low-mess plus offers the promise of easy removal (not always a slam dunk) but it eventually leaked more often than I would like. I think it just washes off or the non-setting nature of it works against longevity. Yeah I know they use it on Rolls Royce turbines, so they say, but I'm not 100% there. I've grown increasingly cranky and intolerant of oil leaks; I don't want to deal with them more than once.
Before you say: "... but the RTV/gasket is a bit** to get off without scratching my beautiful aluminum head/cover/flange..." consider making a copper scraper as below. Softer than aluminum but with a sharp edge; it will change your RTV scraping life forever. I bet Steve could even do it on the kitchen table with one hand tied to his cabernet goblet.
For ungasketed, well-fitting flanges I use Loctite 518. It will fill a gap up to .25mm. And for pneumatic/fluid threads, Loctite 545. I feel it more reliably seals than PTFE tape. The shown primer is not required but can speed up or improve bonding depending on the substrate.
Hope that helps!
I absolutely despise oil leaks and seepages. I've been known to backslide into a full rebuild of a period Italian V12 (designed to leak?!) through the gateway of obliterating such mishaps.
After trying many sealants over the years, I have settled on Loctite 598 for gasketed joints. What I like: To date, 100% effective against leaks, pressurized can makes dispensing easy and accurate, not an acetic acid cure (hate that smell). I've used it on cam cover joints that sit below the level of resting oil --always submerged. No leaks.
I apply it on the gasket and smear it down to a light coating, tighten fasteners hand tight and finally after a few hours (partial cure) fully torque down. Here it is being used on the intake manifold coolant chamber:
I tried "The Right Stuff" gasket maker and while very strong and leak free, it was VERY, VERY strong and leak free. Too strong. I struggled for a loooong time to get the oil pan off the 1800. Bent it a little bit even. If you are *never* going back in , this is the nuclear option.
I used Hylomar for a while and I liked that it's non-setting and low-mess plus offers the promise of easy removal (not always a slam dunk) but it eventually leaked more often than I would like. I think it just washes off or the non-setting nature of it works against longevity. Yeah I know they use it on Rolls Royce turbines, so they say, but I'm not 100% there. I've grown increasingly cranky and intolerant of oil leaks; I don't want to deal with them more than once.
Before you say: "... but the RTV/gasket is a bit** to get off without scratching my beautiful aluminum head/cover/flange..." consider making a copper scraper as below. Softer than aluminum but with a sharp edge; it will change your RTV scraping life forever. I bet Steve could even do it on the kitchen table with one hand tied to his cabernet goblet.
For ungasketed, well-fitting flanges I use Loctite 518. It will fill a gap up to .25mm. And for pneumatic/fluid threads, Loctite 545. I feel it more reliably seals than PTFE tape. The shown primer is not required but can speed up or improve bonding depending on the substrate.
Hope that helps!
I prefer a nice rhum 
Hi
I think I know the answer to this. However the replies may be insightful and enjoyable. Besides I enjoy asking what may be called by some stupid questions; what did so and so say referring to this!?
After replacing all seals and gaskets, is there any way to test for oil leaks before engine install, full connection, and run up?
Regards,
Bill
Last grimy job,
View attachment 109873
Clean,
View attachment 109874
POR15 engine paint,
View attachment 109875
vapour (dry ice) blasted,
View attachment 109876
Assembled with Hylomar Blue,
View attachment 109877
I think I know the answer to this. However the replies may be insightful and enjoyable. Besides I enjoy asking what may be called by some stupid questions; what did so and so say referring to this!?
After replacing all seals and gaskets, is there any way to test for oil leaks before engine install, full connection, and run up?
Regards,
Bill
Last grimy job,
View attachment 109873
Clean,
View attachment 109874
POR15 engine paint,
View attachment 109875
vapour (dry ice) blasted,
View attachment 109876
Assembled with Hylomar Blue,
View attachment 109877