OMG - what an adventure - swapping out my radio for period correct Becker

scottevest

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Messages
2,023
Reaction score
621
Location
Ketchum, Idaho
Ever since I got my coupe, I wanted to swap out the radio for a period correct unit. I finally pulled the trigger and bought a nice unit, and had it refurbished by Becker with the bluetooth adapter. Unfortunately, there is no car stereo shops where I live, so I went to Boise, about 160 miles from home yesterday, 2.5 hour drive. I waited for 5 hours while the tried to install it, only to learn that the bluetooth adapter was defective and that FM did not work either. The had to finish up quickly and send me on my way home. As soon as I got on the highway, I discovered that the unit had no power at all, no lights, no AM, and that my rear windows would not go up, only down. I tried the breaker near the steering column, which usually works when I have issues with rear windows. I also tried the switches in back, but no luck.

So, now I have a great looking, period correct unit, that doesn't work at all. I made the best of it on my ride home listening to the engine with the wind in my face, but now have to figure out how to get my rear windows up. Any ideas are appreciated. Then, I have to find a shop that can attached the new bluetooth module, which should be fairly simple. Then, I have too ship the main unit back to Becker to fix the FM reception, then reinstall.

Someone suggested after I had all this done, to simply put the modern unit with bluethooth in the glovebox and have the period correct non working, but completely refurbished unit in the dash.

What an adventure....

Videos of my experience from FB are here:
Short video at the shop:
VERY long video on my drive enjoying the sound of the engine:
 
Do you have the separate small Becker amplifier connected?
YES. I even sent pictures to installer beforehand. I have no idea if the installer screwed it up, or the unit wasn't working. They said they had it working fine outside the car, then only AM, then nothing, when attached to the car.
 
who installed the “line coverter” and why? the stock Becker Amp plugs into the radio and is mounted up and behind glove box, no line converter needed. Blue tooth adapter plugs directly into an “Auxiliary“ jack in rear of the radio originally used to add a cassette deck.
did you have your radio repaired by Becker Autosound in NJ?

 
who installed the “line coverter” and why? the stock Becker Amp plugs into the radio and is mounted up and behind glove box, no line converter needed. Blue tooth adapter plugs directly into an “Auxiliary“ jack in rear of the radio originally used to add a cassette deck.
did you have your radio repaired by Becker Autosound in NJ?

I have no idea that was needed. It wasn’t on the bill ultimately. It doesn’t really make sense that it worked initially on the bench and then not in the car. Obviously something they did in between the fence and the car cause the problem. There was an existing amp in the car that they were trying to hook up to which may be why they needed the converter? Why is it that every time I bring the car in to ““ experts I end up learning more about things than I care to.
 
The Becker radio/amp combo only works together. You can hook the output of the Becker amp to speaker level power amp inputs but an iphone will distort the Becker amp much like a guitar fuzz box. The Becker head unit will not work hooked up directly to an amp without the small amp, there is not enough signal from the head unit to drive a modern power amp unless the amp has a very sensitive input, I could not find one that worked. The radio will work fine though the Becker amp/power amp combo because it doesn't over dirve the input like an iPhone will. I solved this by hooking up a bluetooth reciever directly into a Kenwood power amp which drives my 4 speakers and a powered subwoofer. Sounds great for a coupe with no distortion. I can switch to radio by switching the speakers output to the Becker amp, although I never use it. Sounds like your stereo installer doesn't know vintage radios and related wiring.
 
The Becker radio/amp combo only works together. You can hook the output of the Becker amp to speaker level power amp inputs but an iphone will distort the Becker amp much like a guitar fuzz box. The Becker head unit will not work hooked up directly to an amp without the small amp, there is not enough signal from the head unit to drive a modern power amp unless the amp has a very sensitive input, I could not find one that worked. The radio will work fine though the Becker amp/power amp combo because it doesn't over dirve the input like an iPhone will. I solved this by hooking up a bluetooth reciever directly into a Kenwood power amp which drives my 4 speakers and a powered subwoofer. Sounds great for a coupe with no distortion. I can switch to radio by switching the speakers output to the Becker amp, although I never use it. Sounds like your stereo installer doesn't know vintage radios and related wiring.
Makes perfect sense. Thank you so much.
 
Thanks much for your help, again. I feel like it's groundhog's day, again. Seems like everytime I try to get something simple done by experts, something odd happens and I have to go to school and get help from this forum.

I send this email to the installer just now. I hope the shop in Twin Falls, about 1.5 hours away, can fix this, and my windows...

Tom Hood, can you please help me better understand the issues before I drive to Power Plant in Twin Falls or send parts back to Becker Autosound?

You indicated that the unit was working fine on AM/FM on your "bench," other than the bluetooth adapter, which you indicated was not getting lights on/power, etc. Please confirm that you are certain the bluetooth adapter is in fact defective.

Logic dictates that if the unit was working with AM and FM on your bench, but not when you put it in the car, that it is likely something that was done in the car is the issue, not the unit itself. I posted this to a very knowledgeable forum here: https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/o...-for-period-correct-becker.37700/#post-320635.

Here are their comments:
  • who installed the “line converter” and why? the stock Becker Amp plugs into the radio and is mounted up and behind glove box, no line converter needed.
  • The Becker radio/amp combo only works together. You can hook the output of the Becker amp to speaker level power amp inputs but an iphone will distort the Becker amp much like a guitar fuzz box. The Becker head unit will not work hooked up directly to an amp without the small amp, there is not enough signal from the head unit to drive a modern power amp unless the amp has a very sensitive input, I could not find one that worked. The radio will work fine though the Becker amp/power amp combo because it doesn't overdrive the input like an iPhone will. I solved this by hooking up a bluetooth receiver directly into a Kenwood power amp which drives my 4 speakers and a powered subwoofer. Sounds great for a coupe with no distortion. I can switch to radio by switching the speakers output to the Becker amp, although I never use it. Sounds like your stereo installer doesn't know vintage radios and related wiring.
Tom Hood, you indicated that you left the power unattached when you reinstalled the unit, and acknowledged that the rear windows did not go up and would reimburse me to have them repaired.

I'm just trying to get all my ducks in a row before driving to Twin Falls. Do you have a record of what components you installed in the car originally?

Thanks in advance for your help getting this resolved.

Scott
 
I feel terrible for you. Perhaps to make you feel better, I paid 350 dollars for a BMW Business CD radio for my 88 M6. These are in demand because they have the CD but look period correct in the E24. I installed myself and all was good. As I pushed it into its carriage in the dash to get that "click" so it was seated correctly, the LED face went blank and the thing was dead. I had to get another.

I cannot figure how the seats would be out, wiring should not be affected. Perhaps they played with the fuse box and a fuse is no longer fitted well or they pulled some wiring out from the back of the box. Our fuse boxes are temperamental.

Totally unlikely, but I had the issue of going down but not up on one window. It was spontaneous as it worked the day before. I swapped front and back switches and still no go. I ended up cleaning the switch contacts and that did it. For starters, maybe take a multimeter, pull a back switch and ensure you have power going to it.
 
So, here are the images I sent to the shop in advance to ensure they knew what they had to do, etc.
I just noticed that 2 pieces were not installed, one the bluetooth piece they said wasn't working and another Hi/Low Impedance Adaptor Model: HL101, shown in the images.

 
Scott
Sorry about your horrible experience.

(1) when working with obscure stuff like old car radios, modern car stereo expertise likely doesn’t imply expertise in what you want to get done. Just like the bodyshop you chose, which was expert in hot rods and 356’s, but not in E9’s. In the case of your body work, the shop really seemed ignorant of many BMW restoration basics, and you ended up having to teach them how to do their jobs (w the support of the forum). Thus I would NOT CALL Benny and expert in any relevant sense.

Was the Autosound shop you selected highly experienced in vintage Becker systems and mating them to modern electronics? Or were they just a well known shop for modern Autosound conversions?

(2) you seem like a SEMI-hands-on guy. Most professional shops hate guys like us (I’m one of them), because we think we know what works and we think we know how the solution should be, and we like to tell people how to do things and we in general like to stick our noses into other people’s jobs . But often we are actually pretty ignorant and our involvement makes other people’s jobs harder.

Most prefer a customer come it with a clear request and expectation for what the completed project should do, but then step back and let them:

(a) figure out what parts and expertise THEY need to meet your expectations, and plan THEIR project to meet your needs

(b) get the parts required by THEIR plan. This means they are responsible to get the right stuff and stand behind them. Also, Shops depend on parts markups to make a living.

(c) do the work as THEY have planned, where they bring you in for decisions and consultation as needed.

When you bring a box of YOUR parts to a pro and tell them 1/5th of what they actually need to implement your design .... how motivated or enabled do you think they will be to get it all sorted out? After all, it is YOUR box of parts (on which they make no margin), and YOUR technical know-how that says YOUR stuff will do what it’s supposed to.

This is why I have taken the time to learn how to do stuff myself. And when I bring my parts and ideas to a professional, I try to put myself in their shoes:

(1) I write up a detailed list of my expectations for the finished project. This includes all the parts I want to bring.

(2) We review this to make sure they are ok with it. I clarify whether they are willing to re-engineer out any mistakes I’ve made in planning/parts, at my expense

Usually, they will say, “no guarantees this will work because you are bringing your own parts and you want us to do it your way.” If that is not ok with me the. I ask them to suggest an alternative where they will take full responsibility for the outcome.

(3) I offer to pay them the margin they would have made had they sourced the parts

(4) I make it 100% clear that if they think my plan and/or parts won’t do the job, then it’s my fault/responsibility


Of course, maybe you just got unlucky and locked a crappy shop.

PS: your rear windows don’t worn because they screwed up putting your car back together. Because they go down, just not up, it is probably not installing the switches and harness plugs correctly in the console.

Good luck
John
 
Scott
Sorry about your horrible experience.

(1) when working with obscure stuff like old car radios, modern car stereo expertise likely doesn’t imply expertise in what you want to get done. Just like the bodyshop you chose, which was expert in hot rods and 356’s, but not in E9’s. In the case of your body work, the shop really seemed ignorant of many BMW restoration basics, and you ended up having to teach them how to do their jobs (w the support of the forum). Thus I would NOT CALL Benny and expert in any relevant sense.

Was the Autosound shop you selected highly experienced in vintage Becker systems and mating them to modern electronics? Or were they just a well known shop for modern Autosound conversions?

(2) you seem like a SEMI-hands-on guy. Most professional shops hate guys like us (I’m one of them), because we think we know what works and we think we know how the solution should be, and we like to tell people how to do things and we in general like to stick our noses into other people’s jobs . But often we are actually pretty ignorant and our involvement makes other people’s jobs harder.

Most prefer a customer come it with a clear request and expectation for what the completed project should do, but then step back and let them:

(a) figure out what parts and expertise THEY need to meet your expectations, and plan THEIR project to meet your needs

(b) get the parts required by THEIR plan. This means they are responsible to get the right stuff and stand behind them. Also, Shops depend on parts markups to make a living.

(c) do the work as THEY have planned, where they bring you in for decisions and consultation as needed.

When you bring a box of YOUR parts to a pro and tell them 1/5th of what they actually need to implement your design .... how motivated or enabled do you think they will be to get it all sorted out? After all, it is YOUR box of parts (on which they make no margin), and YOUR technical know-how that says YOUR stuff will do what it’s supposed to.

This is why I have taken the time to learn how to do stuff myself. And when I bring my parts and ideas to a professional, I try to put myself in their shoes:

(1) I write up a detailed list of my expectations for the finished project. This includes all the parts I want to bring.

(2) We review this to make sure they are ok with it. I clarify whether they are willing to re-engineer out any mistakes I’ve made in planning/parts, at my expense

Usually, they will say, “no guarantees this will work because you are bringing your own parts and you want us to do it your way.” If that is not ok with me the. I ask them to suggest an alternative where they will take full responsibility for the outcome.

(3) I offer to pay them the margin they would have made had they sourced the parts

(4) I make it 100% clear that if they think my plan and/or parts won’t do the job, then it’s my fault/responsibility


Of course, maybe you just got unlucky and locked a crappy shop.

PS: your rear windows don’t worn because they screwed up putting your car back together. Because they go down, just not up, it is probably not installing the switches and harness plugs correctly in the console.

Good luck
John

John, I truly appreciate your input. But in this case, your comments are not inline with my conversations with this shop. I fully appreciate how a shop might not appreciate a customer bringing a box of parts to install, especially if they sell those very same parts and make money on them. That is not the case here. This shop does not typically install Becker period correct stereos, and they were glad I did the extensive research necessary to get all the needed parts. I discussed this very issue with the shop and laughed about it together. Frankly, I don't think there is a shop in all of Idaho that is "highly experienced in vintage Becker systems and mating them to modern electronics." I did confirm with the Becker folks that the install should be straightforward for any car radio shop; no special experience was needed I confirmed.

Before making the appointment and driving there, I was clear on the end goal, and sent them detailed images of all the parts so they would know. We then had several discussions about this over the phone. He asked for more pictures, which I sent. They knew exactly what the expectations were going in, and agreed happily to do the work needed to achieve those goals.

However, I discovered when I was there that they were extremely busy; I heard him telling another customer that they were up 70% over last MONTH. I made the appointment over 6 weeks ago; this was the first appointment. They said it should take only 1.5 hours to do the install, but when I got there they said they reserved 5 hours to do the work. I just think they took on more work than they were capable of at that time. They should have told me they couldn't do the work, or didn't want to do the work. That's not on me to make that call.

Initially, I tried to find someone local to do the install, as I thought it couldn't be that hard. The guy I found here locally worked at an auto repair shop and asked me specifically to source the parts, as he didn't want to do the necessary research. I decided then to bring it to an "auto radio expert" who installed my stereo in my couple several years ago since he was familiar with the set up, or so I thought.

Perhaps in larger cities your approach may work well, but I have found when you live in the sticks like I do, getting things done is not as easy as you'd might expect. I do sincerely appreciate all the great feedback here. It was especially valuable with my mini restoration.

On that front, I have NO regrets having Benny do the work on MY BABY. I think he did a great job, with the help of this forum and my extensive efforts in sourcing the needed parts. If I had it to do all over again, I would have done the same, but wouldn't have posted updates as often here in this forum. I was just super excited about the entire process and wanted to share, and get input.

The other coupe Benny is restoring is turning out great from my perspective, with the help of @sfdon on the engine. See the updates here: https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/bennyz-rod-shop-restoration.29868/page-10#post-307691.

Benny does lots more than just hot rods and 356's. Before jumping to any conclusions about his work, let me send you an update when the car is ready, which I think will be fairly soon. It is now in Boise getting the interior done. The other alternative for me would have been sending MY BABY to one of the few shops that specialize in coupe restorations, and spend $75k+ and take ~2 years. That was not an option for me, and like I said, I am VERY happy for the result for the price and time it took to complete. Please keep the comments about my mini-restoration constructive and put them in this forum https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/my-baby-is-done-thanks-for-all-your-help.29200/page-15#post-303405 rather than here.

Thanks again for your input. I do appreciate it. Glad to hear that the window issue is likely easily resolved, I hope.
 
Last edited:
Check those connections on the switches
My rears haven't worked since I got my car, so not 100% they're right.
20171125_170717.jpg
20171125_170614.jpg
20171125_153703_HDR.jpg
20171125_170023.jpg
20171125_153345.jpg
20171125_153620.jpg
20171125_153505_HDR.jpg
 
who installed the “line coverter” and why? the stock Becker Amp plugs into the radio and is mounted up and behind glove box, no line converter needed. Blue tooth adapter plugs directly into an “Auxiliary“ jack in rear of the radio originally used to add a cassette deck.
did you have your radio repaired by Becker Autosound in NJ?


I think that Scott has an amplifier above the glove box from his old stereo. No installer would try to switch to RCA cables if they had nothing to go to. My guess is that even if the old amp has speaker level (high level) inputs, they used the converter because it allowed easy access to existing RCA cables.

@scottevest,

Not sure if it is helpful, but here is mine with one speaker hooked up to the factory amp...

 
I forwarded the information here to my installer and he replied as follows:

“Scott, we did hook the Becker radio to Becker amplifier and used line level converter because RCA's were already run to the front of the car from your amplifiers. We did temporarily get AM station sound from the Becker radio and then tried switching to FM and nothing and back to AM and never could get back. The Bluetooth was diagnosed by Becker themselves, they said if it didn't have a red light on it wasn't working properly and they didn't think it was the radios fault. If I were you I would do what your guru does and plug in a Bluetooth device with a volume control and be done with it. Just have Blaine from Power Plant call me and I can let him know where everything is at and what he needs to do to save him time and you money.”
 
I just spoke with Ed at becker sound. He was super nice. He said that this should not have taken more than one hour at most.

I am going to have Ed talk to the folks in Twin Falls before I drive out there. Thanks again for everyone here for your help
 
This confirms my comments above. Sounds like you have at least one if not two aftermarket amps in your car. So your setup is like this:

becker radio -> becker amp -> line converter-> aftermarket amp -> speakers.

One thing to consider is that the radio needs to be grounded. On a modern carb the radio chassis will already be grounded. On your car you have a metal AC face plate bolted to a wood console, and a radio that could be testing on carpet. If you old radio worked, and if your becker worked for a moment, this is likely not an issue. There should be a steel floor piece that the radio rests on, but ensure that you have a good ground going to the radio chassis. You can’t see it in my video, but the back of the becker amp has a tab for ground. You can accidentally get a ground if the radio body is touching metal. In your case you will want to run a wire to that tab. If your radio body has a tab, run a ground to that also. My becker also has a black ground wire exiting the chassis. You can make it out in pic #2 below.

Please take no offense as I’m not sure you are aware of this fact. Every radio shop knows, but they may not have considered explicitly grounding the unit. In 99% of cars, the DC positive power is run through wires that ultimately connect to the positive battery post. The negative battery post is bolted to the chassis. All ground wires on the car just bolt to to the chassis somewhere. So for your radio, you run a wire from that tab below to a suitable spot on chassis or an existing ground post/screw.

B4446501-2F18-4309-A78E-C603CDCCC412.jpeg


639BD7B4-2688-42BB-BE8B-E8AE51F2C0CD.jpeg




I have no clue on the windows, but logic dictates that there was a short and the fuse blew. If they pulled the window switched and reordered the wires incorrectly, that’ll do it. In general with all window switches old and new, they are daisy chained off the driver’s switches.

I forwarded the information here to my installer and he replied as follows:

“Scott, we did hook the Becker radio to Becker amplifier and used line level converter because RCA's were already run to the front of the car from your amplifiers. We did temporarily get AM station sound from the Becker radio and then tried switching to FM and nothing and back to AM and never could get back. The Bluetooth was diagnosed by Becker themselves, they said if it didn't have a red light on it wasn't working properly and they didn't think it was the radios fault. If I were you I would do what your guru does and plug in a Bluetooth device with a volume control and be done with it. Just have Blaine from Power Plant call me and I can let him know where everything is at and what he needs to do to save him time and you money.”
 
Back
Top