One step up, two steps back

Yes this will be kid 2 in college, both one year apart (my oldest took a gap year). So yes I’m feeling the hit.
Regarding driveshaft it came from DriveshaftPro in Huntington Beach. I talked to Armando Elias and told him “I want the one Don gets” in terms of lengths. It fits perfectly
 
e9Leveque said:
Yes this will be kid 2 in college, both one year apart (my oldest took a gap year). So yes I’m feeling the hit.
Regarding driveshaft it came from DriveshaftPro in Huntington Beach. I talked to Armando Elias and told him “I want the one Don gets” in terms of lengths. It fits perfectly
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so happy to have those days, and the payments that go with them, behind me. Funny thing is that we recently discovered that my son's college loans that we paid off many years ago had a small ~$15.00 balance that has been accruing interest for many years. We had the pleasure of paying off his loan twice.
 
College loan payments are a bitch, but nothing compares to caring for aged parents.. My dad recently passed away at 97 Yrs old in WA. $15K per month for quality care... OUCH.. Definitely not leaving any burden like that to my kids...

I managed to go to college and grad school basically for free (different times...) Somewhere along this life journey I made a pledge to myself that I would never subject my kids to college debt, and I would not let my parents suffer poor end of life care. I am less wealthy for it, but we are all far richer.. And now I am free from both, So I can finally restore my car!:love:
 
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e9Leveque said:
Yes this will be kid 2 in college, both one year apart (my oldest took a gap year). So yes I’m feeling the hit.
Regarding driveshaft it came from DriveshaftPro in Huntington Beach. I talked to Armando Elias and told him “I want the one Don gets” in terms of lengths. It fits perfectly
Click to expand...
This is good info as I need to order a drive shaft still! The "Don Special" it is haha.
 
It is still a good idea to measure overall length needed as there are three output flanges and the skinny M5 and fat original guibos. I ordered the one Paul spec’s from them and it was short, I had to use the old style fat guibo that Don hates.
 
HB Chris said:
It is still a good idea to measure overall length needed as there are three output flanges and the skinny M5 and fat original guibos. I ordered the one Paul spec’s from them and it was short, I had to use the old style fat guibo that Don hates.
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I have 2 different rear flanges to choose from. Have not yet ordered a guibo. In theory I should be able to make some combo work with what I already have.
 
Pittraider18 said:
I have 2 different rear flanges to choose from. Have not yet ordered a guibo. In theory I should be able to make some combo work with what I already have.
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Good point. I ordered the M5 guibo and the Don length. I utilized the measurements from the blue book (happy to post here), but it can be a bit hard to interpret since some of those measurements are just the length of the shaft and others include the flange at the end. I sent Armando a bunch of numbers and he said "if you're using the guibo Don uses then this one should work fine".
In other completely unrelated news, a very nice arctic blue E24 (Euro) M635Csi just popped up on BaT under an hour ago and is already at 50K. I am still lusting after one of these...someday...
 
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e9Leveque said:
Good point. I ordered the M5 guibo and the Don length. I utilized the measurements from the blue book (happy to post here), but it can be a bit hard to interpret since some of those measurements are just the length of the shaft and others include the flange at the end. I sent Armando a bunch of numbers and he said "if you're using the guibo Don uses then this one should work fine".
In other completely unrelated news, a very nice arctic blue E24 (Euro) M635Csi just popped up on BaT under an hour ago and is already at 50K. I am still lusting after one of these...someday...
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What specifically do we measure here? Is it engine output shaft flange to diff flange?
 
Here is what I wrote to Armando:

“Hello, reaching out based on recommendations from the BMW E9 forum. I'm interested in purchasing a new driveshaft for my 5-speed Getrag conversion. It sounds as if the right codeword here is "the one Don gets", which I think translates to:
Front section of driveshaft (C1) is equal to 16.5"
Rear portion of driveshaft is 41.5". I assume the measurements are equivalent to the usual current Don order? I’m using the same flange and guibo he recommends so I assume driveshaft length would be the same

I obtained those lengths from the blue book schematic. He seemed confused by this and responded:

Correct except the rears are 40" center bearing to flange face.

Not sure whether this information helps, but again will say that M5 guibo and “the Don” worked out perfectly.
 
I can't recall (too much grease under the fingernails!) if the center bearing is adjustable fore and aft. If not, then it seems that the choice of guibo will fix the length of the forward section of the shaft. Apparently this is not the case, since it seems folks use different guibos (or is that guibii? o_O )...
So I am still a bit confused by where one measures to.. Transmission flange plus guibo to X, and from X to the diff flange.. But where is X?

Also, it sounds like there may be different flanges. (???)

AND, this is the first I have read about using a non-stock guibo. What's with that?
 
RealOEM lists the E28 M5 (1986) Guibo as 26117511454. (30 mm thick)

The Guibo for an E12 based 635, which uses the M90 and Getrag 265/6 is 26111107832 (44 mm thick)

Interestingly W-N lists the thinner one as being compatible with the 635, M635, etc. as well. And they list the thicker one as the part for the E9.

Also for 2800 CS they list one that is 46 mm thick! 26111100837.

So the thinner one is stronger?
 
The e9 Manuel transmission guibo is 45 mm thick- no reinforcement and known as the grenade.
The E9 automatic transmission guibo is 30 mm thick.

The M5 guibo is reinforced and is 35 mm thick.

Note that automatic and Manuel transmission Driveshafts have different length noses to accommodate the different thickness of the guibos.

And note that even though there is no part number, the ETK clearly shows the availability of a spacer to accommodate different chassis lengths- we use a head bolt washer as an alternative when needed as a shim.

Be aware if you don’t shim it correctly, your guibo will have an unusual scalloped look to it where it waivers from side to side that’s not desired.
 
different rubber / construction type. the m5 is built for 288+ hp
26117511454 yes ... it is also listed for most of newer BMW as well as fitting e24 m6

quick note - do NOT buy the URO m5 guibo ... it won't last either
 
i bought mine from rmeuropean a few years ago for 47. the prices varied between 46.78 and 55.01 at that time depending on the manufacturer. at the time, the BMW one was 112 from getbmwparts ... its now 167.50!!! thank you mr. tariff man
 
Well since this thread is all over the place but we are all having fun, I have some general questions as I think about attacking my leak. As I understand it, for a manual the transmission is essentially a sealed box and the transmission fluid just sloshes around in there keeping things lubricated. Obviously there's the fill hole and drain hole, plus the shaft entering and exiting the metal casing. These would be the primary points of any leak of transmission fluid. The transmission seals mentioned earlier in this thread are for the input/output shafts.
When I bought the transmission, the seller on here told me the following:
Brought it to La Jolla Independent, we put in manual transmission lubricant in and then drained it. Went through all gears and it shifts fine. Put it hot wash tank to clean it.

This test would suggest that there wasn't at least a massive obvious failing of these seals when the transmission was filled, although much like the coolant system I'd suspect that some of these leaks may not be apparent until the system is put under stress. So if/when I end up pulling the transmission, changing out front and rear transmission seals would be my primary route forward

With regards to the oil potential, the engine wasn't leaking before I removed the old 4-speed. None of the work changing clutch, bell housing, etc should have had an effect on any oil leak potential, since these areas aren't in direct contact with the engine internals, but I did change the front and rear main seals since it was one of those "while you are there" items. I don't see a leak from the front of the engine, and I did check the oil sender area - no leak there. So the likely culprit in the event of an oil leak would be the rear main seal.

Am I understanding this all correctly? Of course the real answer will be lifting the car and doing a little hunting, but I'd like to make sure that I have things conceptually down before I start undoing bolts.
 
Often sometimes it’s a good idea to put in that rear main seal a little proud or a little deeper than how it came out
 
Once you get under the car you will be able to tell if the output shaft seal is leaking. That would be the easiest and would not require dropping the transmission. As Don suggests, with a re-position to keep the lip of the seal on a fresh part of the output shaft. The lip will actually create a micro-groove in the shaft so a new position is optimal.

If you find that it is the front seal, you will of course need to drop the transmission and as I recall you pull the front cover off to install the seal. You also will need to buy sealant (locktite 573 or gasket shelac) to seal the front cover.
 
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