Overheating engine '73 E9

Could be block rust scale, if the block is not properly cleaned in the water passages there can be a scale of rust, that scale of rust will cause a thermal barrier, and prevent proper cooling. You can use a cleaner call Thermocure to clean the passages out, the process takes about a week, you add water and the Thermocure to the water and use as normal, apparently the longer you leave it in there cleaner the iron block with get so might want to leave it in couple weeks, then wash out the systems several times make sure you use the coolant drain point lowest on the block also. You can re-use the mixture also so get a 5 gallon bucket to keep it and use again.
 
coupe2800cs said:
Could be block rust scale, if the block is not properly cleaned in the water passages there can be a scale of rust, that scale of rust will cause a thermal barrier, and prevent proper cooling. You can use a cleaner call Thermocure to clean the passages out, the process takes about a week, you add water and the Thermocure to the water and use as normal, apparently the longer you leave it in there cleaner the iron block with get so might want to leave it in couple weeks, then wash out the systems several times make sure you use the coolant drain point lowest on the block also. You can re-use the mixture also so get a 5 gallon bucket to keep it and use again.
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OK, are we back on topic or this recommendation is still for Mike Goble?
 
Taking the suggestions in sequence: is the rad. blocked: probably not as it gets hot all over, the temp. drop approx. 30deg C. Is the bottom hose hot, yes reading approx. 60 deg C. Is the block clogged with rust / crude, during the engine rebuild all the core plugs were removed, what crude could be removed with a screwdiver etc was, it was then steam cleaned. There is a something wrong with the cam timing. Photo #1 shows the crank damper aligned with the front cover, #2 shows the cam timing is ok, but the neither flywheel ball is visible. When the 0 ball is lined up #3, the cam timing is off probably by a tooth or two #4 photo. #5 shows the crank damper visible from above the alternator, this should not be visible. I plan to investigate further tomorrow. Once again many thanks for all the help.
 

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There'd be even more clarity if you used a white paint pen and marked a bright dot on each of these timing marks.
 
Cam and crank timing looks good and appears you are using wrong mark on flywheel as you are off 20+ degrees (2 1/2 teeth at cam) and 7 teeth at flywheel?
 
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sfdon said:
Cam and crank timing looks good and appears you are using wrong mark on flywheel as you are off 20+ degrees (2 1/2 teeth at cam) and 7 teeth at flywheel?
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Thank you sfdon, I think you are correct. When I line up the mark on the crank damper with the timing chain cover, neither ball 0 or Z on the fiywheel are visible.
As a result I don't know which mark to use for crank shaft TDC, is it the front crankshaft damper mark or the 0 on the flywheel.
As a result when I use the timing light neither ball is visible.
Thank you.
 
Bring #1 cylinder to TDC on compression stroke with the plugs out Get a wooden stick to put down the spark plug hole and you can slowly rotate the engine back and forth, watching the stick for when the piston is really at TDC, then double check your marks and initial timing Just make sure that the last time you move the crank, it is in a forward direction so the chain stays loaded

Thanks, Rick
 
stphers said:
Bring #1 cylinder to TDC on compression stroke with the plugs out Get a wooden stick to put down the spark plug hole and you can slowly rotate the engine back and forth, watching the stick for when the piston is really at TDC, then double check your marks and initial timing Just make sure that the last time you move the crank, it is in a forward direction so the chain stays loaded

Thanks, Rick
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That's what I do. Put the distributor in pointing at #1 plug wire, turn it as needed to make the engine run then drive it up a nearby hill and back off the timing just below where it pings.
 
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