Paint not drying

Wobdog

Wobdog

a.k.a Mike
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This question is a bit beneath the forum but I know I will get some answers. I was doing a simple clean up of the trunk and decided to make it look cleaner with a quick coat of paint. Simple right? Well it has been 5 days and the rough parts of the paint are still tacky. The smooth parts dried normal but the rough is still way to tacky to put anything back. It is warm and I have used a blow dryer. My strategy at this point is to just wait and hope at point it will dry. Ideas?
 

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I heard if you watch it it can't dry, kinda like boiling water.

Seriously though.... Places where you may have laid it down thicker will take longer, but will cure if the can was mixed properly.
Heat helps, humidity hurts.
 
It also may be reacting with the paint underneath or just too thick to dry, the top layer dries before the lower layer(s).
 
What kind/type of paint was it? Do you have a picture of the can?

What do you mean by "rough parts" vs "smooth parts"?

How did you prep the surface prior to painting?
 
I'm thinking incompatible products. Paint is unforgiving, mysterious and a pain. Even a clean, degreased area, may not accept certain other paints. May have to grind/sand clean and try again. Has happened to me, mostly when I thought that it would be a quick and simple refresh.:(
 
My thought is that if it was incompatible then it would be reacting with symptoms like crinkling. My guess is poorly mixed paint. Most paints in California are waterborne so humidity is actually a good thing. I’d take the same paint, be sure to mix it really well and see if it happens on a test piece. You should always start with a dust or “piss” coat for your first coat of using a spray can. Be sure the van is around 70 degrees or so and the project is in the low 70s too.
 
Dick Steinkamp said:
What kind/type of paint was it? Do you have a picture of the can?

What do you mean by "rough parts" vs "smooth parts"?

How did you prep the surface prior to painting?
Click to expand...
There's a picture of it sitting in the wheel well in OP - Rustoleum "Hammered." Think maybe Robert Patton said he'd been pleased with its results... Actually the image might answer at least two of your questions now that I look at it again.
 
Aerosol paints "harden" by evaporating, as opposed to two part paints with hardener. I've had some aerosol paints take several days to dry. I'd find the spec sheet for that paint and check ranges for humity, etc.
 
I have taken in all the advise into consideration, and I agree with the two conclusion. 1- It is not drying because I am watching it. 2. In the future I need to treat every project as a very difficult project. Seems my easy fast projects are the most difficult. It does seem a bit less sticky so I think I need to wait this out.
 
Here's the label...

Screen Shot 2022-08-04 at 7.29.33 AM.png


It is supposed to dry to the touch in 15 minutes so SOMETHING is wrong.

The label says it...
CONTAINS: LIQUIFIED PETROLEUM GAS, ACETONE, PETROLEUM DISTILLATES AND XYLENE. Strong solvents...especially the acetone.

I'd go with Steve and Mike's theory about it reacting with the paint underneath especially since only the "rough" paint has the problem. I'm guessing by "rough" you mean the areas that the factory sprayed with sound deadener.

It may dry eventually.
 
Try running a dehumidifier. No experience with your situation, know nothing about paint. I run one in my unheated, uninsulated, brick floor garage all year. Yes, the humidity can be high when the temperature is low. It removed the mold from my coupe's headliner in a couple of days with all the windows down.

steve
 
I cleaned everything down with acetone before spraying with a well shaken can. I agree I think the solvents in the can reacted with the sound deadener. The smooth, non sound deadener areas dried fine.

I do Love the empathy! Makes me feel much better it is not just me. Do not get any empathy from the wife, she does not share the same passion we do...at least for the car. Perhaps if the E9 was shaped more like a shoe she would love it as much as I do
 
Wobdog said:
I cleaned everything down with acetone before spraying with a well shaken can. I agree I think the solvents in the can reacted with the sound deadener. The smooth, non sound deadener areas dried fine.
Click to expand...
Could be that the thicker sound deadening absorbed more acetone and it's trying to work its way out. It doesn't take much to stay tacky.
 
“ no primer needed “

Sounds too good to be true, right?
What it really means: “under conditions where specific assumptions hold true …“

in my experience, a sealer/bonding coat (primer), is ALWAYS a good idea, and usually not a lot more effort. Note: you have to use a primer that is compatible with the substrate and also the top coat.

”apply directly over rust”
same comment

If it’s not dry and hard in a week, I’d scrape it all off and start over. Actually, even if it does seem to eventually dry, I’d be worried about your spare tire getting stuck onto that paint over time. Maybe wait 90 days, and then apply a couple coats of car wax before putting in your spare. I once looked at a freshly restored Taiga CSI, where the spare was put in too soon. 2 guys couldn’t yank the spare tire out.

This is a good place to use a catalyzed paint (avail in an aerosol can).

Good luck with it.

John
 
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