Photos of Weber 6-pack linkage

jamesw

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Good evening folks,

I recently bought a Weber setup but it came disassembled and w/out an assembly schematic.

Can anyone please post some photos of how the linkage should be set up? The more the photos - the more helpful :-)

It looks like I have all the parts I need but it's a pretty complicated mechanism.

Cheers
James
 
This is the way Alpina hooks it up. Wish I had a close up detail shot without the clutter.
 
What kind of linkage do you have? The rod on the intake manifold and attached to individual rods to each carb like Nicad's or the coupling linkage between each carb throttle shaft like mine?

IMG-20130402-00340.jpg



Good evening folks,

I recently bought a Weber setup but it came disassembled and w/out an assembly schematic.

Can anyone please post some photos of how the linkage should be set up? The more the photos - the more helpful :-)

It looks like I have all the parts I need but it's a pretty complicated mechanism.

Cheers
James
 
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My linkage is supported on each carb and has dog-bones to two of the three carbs. See photo.

However, the throttle shafts on all of the carbs have interconnects to the carb next-door. I think I can get that part figured out because it's similar to my Roadster.

But my kit came w/ a new "swivel" for where the throttle rod comes from the gas pedal to the side of the engine and from there up to the carbs. I'd love to see a picture of how that replaces the stock setup.

Thanks - this is already helpful.

Cheers
James
 

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The stock throttle rod can be replaced with one that fits the distance from where it mounts to the swivel on the engine block to the triple weber linkage ball. Maybe even the stock one can be loosened at each end to fit, depending on the distance. I think Pierce Manifolds has various sizes.

My linkage is supported on each carb and has dog-bones to two of the three carbs. See photo.

However, the throttle shafts on all of the carbs have interconnects to the carb next-door. I think I can get that part figured out because it's similar to my Roadster.

But my kit came w/ a new "swivel" for where the throttle rod comes from the gas pedal to the side of the engine and from there up to the carbs. I'd love to see a picture of how that replaces the stock setup.

Thanks - this is already helpful.

Cheers
James
 
What kind of linkage do you have? The rod on the intake manifold and attached to individual rods to each carb like Nicad's or the coupling linkage between each carb throttle shaft like mine?

IMG-20130402-00340.jpg

Nice. I like that vent line off the head. Where does it terminate ?
 
Not so far, nothing has oozed out and it's pretty clean inside the filter. Also, the rubber sleeve that attaches to the valve cover was the piece that slides over the stock brake booster hose to protect it from the clamp, fits perfectly.

Does it leave a mess on the undercarriage ?
 
Not so far, nothing has oozed out and it's pretty clean inside the filter. Also, the rubber sleeve that attaches to the valve cover was the piece that slides over the stock brake booster hose to protect it from the clamp, fits perfectly.

Really nice. I'm adding that to the list.
 
Thanks everyone.

Steve - is that a balance tube running along your carbs as well? I run one of those on my other car to equalize the vaccum amongst them all after I get the car tuned as best I can. What size are the taps for the balance tube and where did you get the fittings? I know you can get nice brass ones from Grainger.

Cheers
James
 
Yes, it's both a balance tube rig and idle vacuum advance source. My carbs are DCOM Webers which have manifold vacuum fittings for each barrel and a ported fitting on the 3rd carb for traditional timing advance. They also have idle air bypass screws which allows adjustable balance of air on each barrel at idle and transition. I am using manifold vacuum for my distributor advance which increases idle advance but drops off as rpm's increase and the mechanical advance kicks in. Idle advance is about 15 and all in is 32.

As you mention, connecting the carbs together on the manifold side improves idle smoothness, a topic discussed here before and also works with stock twin Zeniths and their replacement Webers. The carbs came with the port fittings installed. The picture shows plastic tee's in the tube segments between the fittings and the carbs but I recently installed some metal ones from Bel-Metric so they won't crack or fatigue. Tubing is braided vacuum hose also from Bel-Metric, that place is great. Presently I am not using the ported vacuum fitting which typically is what the distributor advance is hooked up to (a subject of many internet forum debates).

I also use the manifold ports to synchronize the barrels on each carb and then to the other carbs with a Carbmate vacuum gauge machine, a brilliant piece of engineering.


Thanks everyone.

Steve - is that a balance tube running along your carbs as well? I run one of those on my other car to equalize the vaccum amongst them all after I get the car tuned as best I can. What size are the taps for the balance tube and where did you get the fittings? I know you can get nice brass ones from Grainger.

Cheers
James
 
Steve, did you purchase the distributor set up this way, or did a specialist dial it in for you?
 
No, it's the stock distributor, one of these days I may have it properly calibrated/rebuilt but it runs well on the street.

Triple webers like a lot of idle advance, the problem being it will also likely end up as too much all-in advance which is why they reccommend reworking the mechanical advance weights. Running the manifold vacuum instead of the ported vacuum lines to the distributor seem to solve that issue for now.

Steve, did you purchase the distributor set up this way, or did a specialist dial it in for you?
 
with he factory E9 (this is an auto atm) did they have a auto choke? if so what to operate with the Webber 45's?

I don't think there is any easy way to add an auto choke to a Weber DCOE. And of course, DCOE's don't have "chokes"; they have "enrichment devices". In other words, to enrich the mixture they add more fuel instead of subtracting air.

You activate enrichment by pulling back the little levers shown in your photo below. Typically you do this with a simple cable connected to a pull under the dash. A single cable can be threaded through the 3 carbs to pull all the levers in series.

I couldn't readily find a photo of the parts needed to attach the cable to the levers. It is a standard Weber component.

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I have a Weber Haynes manual. Are there any relevant pics in there? I haven't browsed it yet.
 
See below:

1) the cooling system bypass... run a bypass from the thermostat, to a tee that runs to the heater and coolant tank?

You need the hoses and tee from an '84-'89 e24:

B0000952.png



2) the 90 degree plenum bends have balancing ports.. I will need to manufacture a manifold to pick each of these location up.. however from photos I have seen.. there is a fourth outlet on the manifold that goes to where??

Post some pics


3) I have picked up the vacuum line for the brake booster on the third intake manifold... however where is most appropriate to pick up the distributor vacuum advance from?

Unless there are other manifold-side ports somewhere which for old Webers usually aren't, if you want to use manifold advance you can tee into the brake booster line then add an anti pulse valve from here:

http://www.dellorto.co.uk/merchandi...?PartNo=APV001&CategoryID=12&PartsectionID=71


4) what thickness should the rubber spacers be between the plenum and the 90" bends matting surface?

What do you mean by plenum? the front face of the carb or the airbox?

Also looking at your carb to intake manifold gaskets I would replace those with just a plain base gasket, not anti-vibration ones. They just leak and are not needed on a 6-cylinder.


5) from point four, what size are the plenum studs?

The carb to manifold studs are M8 and the trumpet to carb body are M6 but verify in your case


6) will the factory distributor be suffice for street use?

Yes if you use manifold vacuum for advanced idle, and tune for max advance with no pinging. Webers like early advance which stock distributors don't have. Many re-curve their stock distributor. I use a 123ignition programmable distributor and it is amazing.

7) with he factory E9 (this is an auto atm) did they have a auto choke? if so what to operate with the Webber 45's?

Like Jay said, there is no auto choke, only manual "cold start valves" which are not needed unless you live in a very cold climate. Most just remove them and blank them off so they don't leak air. There is no fast idle choke like on down draft webers so you have to manually keep the car idling higher until it is warmed up.

Cheers
 
Stevehose - questions on your setup

Why did you choose the coupling linkage/throttle shaft setup?

What did you use to create that vent line off the head?

Where did you get the braided fuel lines?
 
See below:

Why did you choose the coupling linkage/throttle shaft setup?

I tried both the cross bar with arms and the coupling linkage. Coupling fits better with my manifold set up and is easier to synchronize.


What did you use to create that vent line off the head?

The piece connected to the head is actually part number 34331105226 "protective hose" that goes over the brake booster hose. I had it lying around and is a perfect fit (the stock piece from the original air cleaner housing could be trimmed and used also I suppose). The elbow inside came from an auto parts store from the vacuum section. The hose is leftover braided power steering or booster hose I forgot which.



Where did you get the braided fuel lines?

Belmetric has braided fuel, vacuum, and power steering & brake hose. Also the braided blue brake fluid hose.
 
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