Polishing Style 5 wheels. Anyone? Anyone?

Brilliant! Does the polishing action bog the motor down at all?
Yes, because of the diameter of the wheel and the direct drive of the drill motor it slows down as you push harder on it, but the motor has plenty of torque to compensate if you increase the power. I have the trigger pulled in about halfway and I turn the control dial about halfway and it works fine. I found myself using my right hand to sand with and my left hand to adjust the speed up and down to match the pressure I put on it. Didn't take long to figure out the technique. After about 30-40 minutes of sanding and polishing the motor was pretty hot so I took a break. Same thing happens when I drill stubborn concrete for anchor bolts so I expected it.
 
Funny, right now I have 1/2 a set in my garage, waiting for the cold weather to break so I can do the same thing.

Taking a close look at your original pictures, it looks like there is still some scratches and definitely the "imprints" from the bolts. To me, that indicates that you still have some sanding to do. I would recommend starting at 220 and working all the way up to 1000 or 1500.
Rather than sanding all the way up to 2000, I would try polishing at this point.

I had success using a 3" wool cutting wheel mounted on an electric drill
(I used TCP Global Brand 3" Mini Buffing and Polishing Pad Kit with 4 Pads, Backing Plate, and 1/4" Drill Adapter from Amazon)
The pad described as Coarse wool compounding pad was the most effective for bringing up the shine.

You'll be able to tell pretty quickly whether or not you can continue with polishing or need to sand at a high grit)
For a compound, I liked Flitz and Mothers Aluminum Mag polish, but it seemed to me that all the major brands worked about the same.

I recommend 3M automotive wet/ dry paper and wet sanding throughout the process, a little dish soap added to the warm water, and wiping the lips dry with a clean paper towel as you switch grits.

Hope this helps. I'll post this week if I come across some life-changing discoveries.

BTW, what are you doing with your nuts and bolts?
 
BTW, what are you doing with your nuts and bolts?

I've been sanding very similar to what you suggested and it's working fairly well. Not sure what I'll do with the bolts yet. Some of the plating doesn't look that great but they may shine up good enough for my use. I'm painting the wheel centers silver and considered painting the bolt heads the same color but I'm not convinced it would look good. I'll have to decide soon though.

This is the first one I did on the lathe and I just used the edge of my 7" wool pad on my buffer with Blue Magic. After a couple passes it started to shine up really well. I'm definitely getting closer to what I want.

IMG_20210307_163851669.jpg
 
That's looks really nice. I'll bet it's a lot easier mounted to the lathe like that.

YouTube suggested cleaning the nuts and bolts in a vibratory tumbler. They come out looking brand new, but I don't happen to have a vibratory tumbler lying around my garage, so I'm looking for Plan B.
Right now they are soaking in white vinegar to get rid of the rust, and then maybe a wire wheel and buffer.

Just went by the powder coat shop around the corner. $75-$100 for sandblasting, and then $200+ ea. for powder coating.
Looks like I'll be painting mine as well.
 
Good question.

I've seen where the original nuts and bolts were made of titanium. I can't determine whether or not mine are, but they are definitely BBS issued.

I'm pretty sure that polishing the lips of the rims will be at least a yearly endeavor for me, so the bolts will get a coat of wax/polish every spring. Now would be a good time to paint them, but torqueing them up with a socket wrench is risky enough. I'm sure I'd be tearing the clear coat off 1/2 of them.
The back side of the rim (that no one can see) will probably get some kind of paint or other protection.
 
I've been sanding very similar to what you suggested and it's working fairly well. Not sure what I'll do with the bolts yet. Some of the plating doesn't look that great but they may shine up good enough for my use. I'm painting the wheel centers silver and considered painting the bolt heads the same color but I'm not convinced it would look good. I'll have to decide soon though.

This is the first one I did on the lathe and I just used the edge of my 7" wool pad on my buffer with Blue Magic. After a couple passes it started to shine up really well. I'm definitely getting closer to what I want.

View attachment 113516
Wow!
 
I guess there is a certain amount of accomplishment in doing these yourself but it seems like a lot of work. In Phoenix we can get a wheel professionally polished to mirror quality for $45 -$50 per wheel and I had my bolts and nuts chromed for $1.25 each on my style 5s. As an added note the stainless hex center caps from an 92=98 Lincoln Town car will fit over the centers of the style 5 caps giving a great look and you can find them on Ebay. They are a bit higher than the molded centers of the original caps but fit snug on the sides and with a liberal amount of JB wont go anywhere. A lincoln hub wrench can be bought or file out your BMW wrench to fit They look great and take a major high polish At work but will post a picture this afternoon
 
In Phoenix we can get a wheel professionally polished to mirror quality for $45 -$50 per wheel

I'd be really surprised if a shop around here would polish these wheels to a mirror finish for $50 each. I didn't look, but I would expect that to be polishing wheels that are already a polished wheel and just need re-polishing, not wheels that are machine finish and need to be cut down and sanded/polished back out.
 
I think we are very lucky with labor rates in Phoenix That price is good in 3 different shops and includes curb rash no machining and front lips only
 
I think we are very lucky with labor rates in Phoenix That price is good in 3 different shops and includes curb rash no machining and front lips only

What I've found online shows polishing a non-polished wheel to be a "custom polish" and most start at $150 and up per wheel. Wouldn't matter to me if they were $50/ea because I'm a mechanical nerd and would want to do it myself anyway. :) I also plan on painting my stock E3 steel wheels and they need sanding/prep. The wheel lathe will make easy work of it.
 
I may just buy all new bolts for the wheels. Anyone have a good supplier? I see SRR Hardware in the UK. Anyone state-side? I'll try cleaning up the bolts I have but I not convinced they'll look good. I've also heard about them being torque to yield bolts and shouldn't be reused, but that wouldn't stop me. :p
 
Maybe @nosmonkey knows about this outfit..
 
Maybe @nosmonkey knows about this outfit..

That's the one I found. I guess I could order through them.
 
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