pre start help

[Peter Coomaraswamy]

Today is start day (I hope) and I was hoping I could get some advice/answers to a couple of questions. First, there seems to be a relay in one of these pictures- what is this for? I think some parts may be for the automatic transmission which no longer exists. Also, there are two fuel lines coming from the tank to the engine compartment; one goes to the carbs, but I think the other went to the charcoal canister? What do you do with this if you don't use the canister? Or does it go to something else. Also please chime in with any pre start advice... I'm already praying!

Thanks to all for helping me get this far!

 

[61porsche]

Peter,

That's your voltage regulator. By now many engines have been converted to one wire alternators so check which one or style alternator you have. It's possible it was left for nostalgia.

Starting after a long time..... spin it for a bit to get some oil moving first. A good indication is to take off the oil cap and look for oil squirting.

It's not likely that the carbs are going to fill fast... so if you're certain of all else you can pour a bit ( well maybe more than a bit) of gas down the carb throats...... if you have the vented carb tops that's a direct access to the fuel bowl. Be prepared to do it a few times before the carbs get filled. Watch for the oil light to go out.

Watch you're water temps to make sure everything's normal.

 

[Peter Coomaraswamy]

ill hook it up

Thanks, I have an alternator with 2 wires so I may actually need it. I concerted from auto to 5 sp. and I can get the engine to turn over with a button jumper on the starter but the key will not turn it over. Is there a neutral safety switch that needs to be jumped- I could just do some hunting around but if there are some quick tricks please let me know-

Many thanks again!

 

[61porsche]

Compliments of the tech section and Carl

It will be necessary to remove the starter interrupt relay. Follow the black wire down from the back of the ignition switch. It will go into a relay. Unplug the black wire and plug it into the clear connector under the fuse box with a similar black wire. This will be occupied with a black and white wire from the same relay. Remove the relay and extra wires.
You should also remove all of the wires for the shift indicator and the lamp assembly. A jumper will have to be made up for the reverse lamps. Two wires from the switch on the transmission to the connector in the passenger compartment at the firewall below and to the left of the steering column. This connector has three wires gray/red, blue/white and violet/black. Use the last two.

 

[Peter Coomaraswamy]

Awesome- Thanks

That only saved me a day or two! I'm not the best electrician- I get good oil to the top end just cranking it over with the jumper so I'll give your instructions a try-

Thanks again

 

[bill]

Re: two fuel lines. One is the supply line, the other is a fuel return line. Pretty sure the '74 and later coupes (CSs) had a fuel return with the Zeniths (all CSIs had it also.) If you aren't using the fuel return (e.g. you have Webers), connect it to the air filter housing (if your coupe is de-smogged, there is probably an unused connection somewhere on the bottom of the filter housing.)

 

[Peter Coomaraswamy]

will do Bill

Thanks,
I thought I had almost everything ready, at least enough to start it, but there were so many little things that needed attention after the rebuild that I got caught up in tightening odds N ends and checking all the grounds, lubricating and measuring linkage. Short version, didn't get her going today. Tomorrow maybe if I can sneak away for 8 more hours-

Thanks all-

 

[bill]

Forgot to mention the fuel supply and return lines run parallel to each other on the driver's side of the car, just inside the rocker panel bottom edge. The vapor recovery line runs inside through the passenger compartment and up over the right rear wheel-well after crossing over the engine compartment along the firewall. Check the line at the rubber/plastic connections to see if it is not blocked: mine had a ball bearing inserted in it by the PO for some reason (!). HTH.

 

[Peter Coomaraswamy]

OK, a couple more..

It looks like the previous owner did a little wiring of his or her own but I think I found the starter interrupt relay. In the picture it's the furthest to the right, it's a little faded/blurry. I removed the relay and jumped the connections with a stout wire and now the car turns over with the key, I have 12 volts to the coil, and spark. Now all I have to do is add fuel and she should start right up (more prayers). So, by disconnecting that relay will anything "not" work? This is a 74 3.0cs auto-converted to 5 speed, so again, anyone can chime in if they wish.

Also, regarding the vapor line that ran through the passenger compartment (???)- and we tell kids "drugs are bad"- can I just block that off in the trunk or vent it under the car and attach the canister?

Thanks again all

 

[Stevehose]

I disconnected the vent hose from the filler neck at the expansion tank in the trunk and routed it out the bottom through a hole in the floor between the gas tank and the back of the car. Then I capped the line going from the tank to the passenger compartment as well as both nipples on the tank. I also removed the crusty rust-promoting cannister under the battery. No fuel smells.

 

[Peter Coomaraswamy]

OK, so here goes..

Thanks Steve,

The filler neck should be vented, but out the bottom is good. I would probably leave the tank in the trunk and block off the outlets. Maybe I could clean it and use it as a tequila dispenser just in case I get stuck somewhere- I will send pics of that when I'm done

 

[Stevehose]

I also left mine in the trunk to keep it stock looking but you can't see that it is disconnected. I like the dispenser idea!

Thanks Steve,

The filler neck should be vented, but out the bottom is good. I would probably leave the tank in the trunk and block off the outlets. Maybe I could clean it and use it as a tequila dispenser just in case I get stuck somewhere- I will send pics of that when I'm done

 

[Peter Coomaraswamy]

runs "good" after 1 year in surgery

So, once again thanks to all on the forum for an unbelievable pool of knowledge and friendship! I put 5 gallons in the tank, about 3 ounces of 93 fuel in each of the carbs (Webers), turned the key and a few seconds later she was purring. No load yet, but it's a start.

Then, of course, I noticed the fuel leaking from the fuel pump and had to shut her down- I pulled off the top cap and the gasket looked in OK shape, no visible cracks or tears but no elasticity either. I played around with it but it still leaked a fair amount of fuel. Is this a common problem or could it be the diaphragm side of the pump as I noticed there is a weep hole back there. It was just kind of hard to see exactly where it was leaking from so if there are some common causes please advise. I am going to do the custom exhaust this week (stock manifolds and header pipes) and I'll post some pics and also costs as that always seems to be of interest.

Thanks all and please pass along any fuel pump knowledge/experiences.

 

[bill]

"compartment".....I meant passenger side.

 

[Peter Coomaraswamy]

Fuel pump question

When I started up the beast after 1 year the fuel pump was leaking pretty steadily, the next morning it leaked less, only slow drops, and this morning it did not leak at all? I let it run for a few minutes and still no leaks? has anyone else had this experience. Of course I ordered a new one but at least I can play for a little while while I'm waiting for it.

 

[deQuincey]

hi peter
congratulations
me assuming that you have a mechanical pump
there are at least three types of mechanical pumps
one is completely sealed, so a leak will be difficult to analyse and to solve
next one has a bolt in the center top, you can dissasemble and it has a rubber gasket that you can change if the material is too hard to be compressed
and the last one has six bolts to close the top part, and is the one with a rubber membrane

i recall that all of them have a hole in the back of the body to let iar come in and out while the membrane compress the fuel, you can not close that hole

if there is fuel comming out from it, the problem is not in the hole, but inside

as to your new experience of fuel not leaking now, i have no reason for that,
first please identify your pump type, but anyway i will not be very comfortable driving the car with a pump that miraculously stops leaks now and then for no aparent reason

 

[Peter Coomaraswamy]

agreed

Thank you sir, I will defenitely change the pump, it's the mechanical pump with the screw in the center, and the rest is sealed (except the air hole in the back). It was very strange indeed but it might be one of those parts I keep in a travel kit.

Almost time to post some more pics, I can't believe she's ready to be on the road again!