Rear side window adjustment

Christopher

Christopher

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I've got a small gap, about 5mm between my door window glass and the vertical seal on the rear side window. The gap is only from the top half up, it fits snugly for the bottom half of the window.

i've got the best adjustment from the door window. it's clear that the issue is with the side window.

As far as i can work out the side window has a forwards / backwards adjustment by using the bolts that hold the glass to the regulator. This isn't my problem though. Furthermore it appears that there should be an in/out adjustment using the 2 L shaped brackets that hold the regulator to the body. However any adjustment here is negated when the window is up and fits into the top channel. As the channel is fixed it dictates the angle of the window, rather than the brackets.

Am I msssing something here ? Is there further points or techniques to get an adjustment somehow ?
 
Hi Guys,

I would also be very interested on how to best tackle/solve this problem. I have the same phenomenon as described by Christophe on my Csi.
 
If you can't find the adjustment in the door glass, you may have to look at adjusting the door itself, I had the same problem with the way the two windows met and overcame it by making the adjustments at the A pillar hinges.
A word of caution, a small adjustment at the hinge can have a large impact at the top of the window.

Cheers.
John
 
John - My issue is with adjustment of the rear side window, not the door window itself.

Any clues appreciated
 
the rear windows have significant adjustment. you can vary the up / down range with the rubber ended adjustable stops. you can also vary the in / out with the bolts on the L brackets. its tough to get right. keep working at it.
 
As far as i'm aware, although there is apparently some adjustment in the L shaped brackets, this will always be corrected by the channel the glass goes into at the top on the window opening. It's almost as if that this needs to be adjustable somehow, but it isn't.
 
Hi Christopher,

As you point out the relationship with the glass and the channel is fixed and can't be altered when the glass is closed, if you were able to 'pull' the channel outwards to make up the gap, it would throw out the rest of the channel towards the front of the car. When we had this problem, by adjusting the way the door and raised door window sit, we were able to close the gap. Essentially what you are doing is twisting the whole door inwards at that top corner, hope this helps.

Cheers. John
 
Having just looked this up my window has two bolts at the top of the frame with bolts which adjust the distance the glass is from the outside of the car at the bottom. There is a screwdriver insert on the end of the screws and as best as I can tell, these are used to push out or pull in the window motor section from the fixed frame piece.

Please correct me if I am wrong but it seems to make sense as to why these special bolts are as they are.

My problem is the large part of the gasket on the outer part of the window glass fouling the outer seal metal piece on the way up. Has anyone had this problem at all? I would love to know any solutions.
 
Rek - I'm not sure that I understand what you are saying exactly, are you talking about the vent window frame or the rear side window ?

Having spent some considerable time on this i've now achieved a perfect fit with my door glass and seal on the rear side window. As i'd previoulsy posted although there is a number of adjustments available on the rear side window frame they are all negated by the felt channel. Once the window closes in its upright postion its placement is dicatated by this channel.

I managed to get rid of my gap, and attain a snug fit, by adjustments to the door window rail. There is 3 adjustments here to consider. Firstly the bottom fixing, next the top fixing (you'll need to remove the door capping for this to access the 2 nuts) and finally the 2 bolts of the window sliding mechanism itself. I don't have images to illustrate but DeQuincey posted an extensive topic on doors and windows with some really helpful images.

My hat is doffed to John Renauden who patiently offered his advice and eventual solution to this. It's worth all the effort to strip the door internals down to get the fit right.

Is your car in Islington ? I'm fairly local so could always pass by sometime to take a look.
 
even though the quarter glass has adjustments it is adjusted to fit the channel when rolled up, the door glass has 2 adjustments where it meets the quarter glass
1- the L bracket at the bottom will adjust the top of the glass in or out
2- the top adjust bolt will adjust the bottom of the glass in or out
by working the adjust screws you should be able to determine where you want the glass to sit when rolled up.
when the vent glass is adjusted correctly to roof seal the top of the door glass by the vent glass will sit on the roof seal as well, that makes adjusting much easier, good luck
 
I have looked at this and there is another adjustment. The holes in the glass are much larger than the 10mm bolts with a small plastic ring inserted to protect the glass. I used rubber grommets to fill the hole completely but I now realise that the small plastic rings are to allow small adjustment of the glass within the frame.

So, off with everything again.........,
 
I was trying to ajdust rear quarter window and messed up position of it. It appears that it is leaning to much to the back of the car. I noticed that since rubber that comes up with window is now not horizontal anymore but it was before.
Tried to fix it with no luck - any ideas?

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Agh, the rear side windows! I read another thread where a guy said he’d spent nine hours on his and I thought well, no way – but totally found out that it’s a bugger of a job and it took me longer than him! A few tips in case it helps someone facing the rear window challenge:

1. Assuming the window is in, before removal put some tape along the top of the glass where it meets the felt channel – check that there is a good and regular seating of glass in the felt channel and adjust tape if necessary. These tape marks will help when winding the window up to clearly show whether it has fully seated all the way round or not (otherwise it’s hidden inside the channel).

2. I replaced the rubber blocks. I agree these don’t need cutting, it is just a matter of fitting the glass correctly. When fitting the rubbers to the glass, ensure they are pulled forward properly – the back of the block on mine kept against the chrome outside trim piece.

3. I superglued the top of the rubber bock to the glass - otherwise if it touched the outer chrome trim it pulled away and jammed.

4. There is some forward/back adjustment in the glass where the two bolts secure it to the frame. Also, forward/back adjustments can be made with the two bolts on the black inner skin.

5. I didn’t find much ability to change alignment with the lower bolts as once the frame is fitted at the top it is pretty secure. Luckily, I didn’t have much in/out alignment issues.

6. I trimmed a 1cm long shoulder in the top seal to better allow the chrome strip on the front edge of the glass to seat better inside the felt channel – it’s obviously wider than the glass but the channel doesn’t normally allow for this.

7. I had problems with the block being too far outboard, and catching along its side edge on the chrome strip. There are two in/out alignment bolts on the black panel, but mine were fully wound inbound so I needed to grind off some of the front of the window mechanism frame to allow it to move more in board and put a 3mm spacer at the top bolt between the B pillar and the frame to bring it onboard - otherwise the frame caught on the B pillar internals.

8. Clean and re-grease mechanism while it’s out.

9. The bung stop for top alignment on mine was fully wound in, miles from touching when the window is closed - I left it like that as couldn’t see the need for it given the mechanism stops when the glass is fully seated. I thought one less headache to bother with! I wondered if this is the factory setting, leaving it redundant.

10. Before removal or refitting, stick some protective wrap on the glass to avoid scratching when getting the mechanism and glass in and out. It’s a tight fit and took me about 10 ins and outs to work out the best manoeuvre to get it in and out. It’s got a mind of its own and seemed to be slightly different each time

Best bit of advice – pay someone else to do it! I was going to replace both sides’ rubber blocks, but can’t face the trauma again!

Cheers, Chris
 
I feel your pain and these are some good tips. I did this two weeks ago and dread ever doing it again. One thing I found and mentioned in some thread was that the new front lower rubber blocks that secure the window dragged exactly as you describe and would jam the mechanism preventing a full closure and also thereby not making a tight seal. These new blocks I had were thicker than the original ones on there. You superglued them to prevent them rolling. I tried gasket adhesive but that didn’t hold well enough. I didn’t want to use something as permanent as superglue so once I had mounted them onto the window but still on the bench, I used a small electric handheld sanding tool to thin down that rubber. Took a few repeat sandings (each time putting the window in to test and then taking it out) but finally got it. They start at about 14 mm thick and should be closer to 10 (for each leaf, the front and the back). I had sourced these from W&N for about $20 each, I think? Maximilien Imports has them but it’s $299 for the pair - that’s more than I am willing to spend, and I don’t know whether his would have the same issue. Where did you source all the rubber parts?
Also, for the rear rubber holder the hole in the glass is much larger than the screw that goes through it (an M5 or 6). When I pulled the windows there was some rubber “debris” in the space suggesting there had been some type of washer. OilsDesigngroup sells this part (for a good price, wish I’d seen that before my W&N order!) and it comes with two plastic washers to fill that empty space. The W&N ones didn’t, and there’s no washer shown on the oem diagram. In the end the window just rested at the bottom of that rubber but it does seem a bit weird.
 
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