Rear window motor help, later models

[fredp]

I'm trying to remove the rear windows in a RHD 73 CSi that has the later style motors, not the sardine can style.

Is there a way to apply power directly to the motors to lower the window other than hooking up the battery? Or, is there a way to lower the window without power?

Unlike the sardine can style I can't see a way to "wind" the mechanism.

There seems to be alot of info on the earlier setup, but I haven't been able to find anything relating to the later style motors.

 

[sfdon]

Just run two wires to the window and touch the leads to a spare battery

 

[bill]

If power doesn't work, you can lower the window manually but it is a real pain. You should be able to pull down the black plastic case on the motor about an inch or two. This will expose the top of the armature. Using your finger or whatever, you can move the armature to lower the window. Takes forever, so have a few pints handy...

 

[Mark C]

73-74 window motors

Fredp:

I have been meaning to reply to your other question from last week about wiring harnesses--it looks like we are dealing with similar issues. I have just replaced the wiring harness in my car (I will reply to your other post with my thoughts on that nightmarish subject) and am currrently sorting the windows. My car was apart for years, literally, so re-wiring the 74 motors and switches is turning out to be more difficult than anticipated. I dont think my blue book or "prospero's garage" wiring diagrams match the actual wiring of my car. It was the 6th 74 produced so they may have been still in transition mode. I do have a black control box as some have mentioned, but I unwrapped the '74 harness and determined that it has nothing to do with the window circuits. I think it may have been related to the USDOT seat belt lights and buzzer circuits. I may re-wire my windows with relays but I haven't determined exactly what I'm going to do.

As far as the later (ie plastic) motors, they have two sets of terminals and the direction of travel is based on which set of terminals receive positive current (the other set will be grounded and then the polarity is reversed to change direction). Thus, as sfdon said, you can simply use connections to a battery and power the windows up or down by applying current to one set or the other. I have used a "power probe" which allows battery power and ground to be applied to various circuits in order to test them. I can hook it up to the window motors and get them to run in either direction. It is a great tool.

The e12 and e28 motors have just two two terminals instead of four but the operation is the same. Incidentally, my e12 parts car (source of a 5 speed etc) had motors very similar to the e28 variety (metal case, 2 wire operation), and those motors did not perform very well in the e9 regulator. I reverted to the late e9 plastic case motors and they ran much faster. I'm not sure why. As most others seem to have found, cleaning the gunk out of the mechanism is the key.

 

[fredp]

Thanks for the info guys, I guess I'll just have to drag out a battery and have a go.