Rebuilt motor break in procedure

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I am getting a fully rebuilt B35 motor in my car. This is being done at La Jolla which means that I will need to drive it back up to L.A., about 2 hours on the freeway. A few days later I will need to drive it north of San Francisco, about another 7 or 8 hours drive mostly on freeways.

Years ago, the conventional wisdom said that you should not do freeway driving on a new engine for the first 500 miles or the rings might start creating grooves in the same place.

Is that still the case? With synthetic oils and the like, is it still best to go through the revs and the gears constantly at the beginning?
 
Best person to ask would be Carl Nelson himself ! It’s not so much driving it long hours as it is to keep the RPM below a certain target for the first couple of thousands miles!
 
Best person to ask would be Carl Nelson himself ! It’s not so much driving it long hours as it is to keep the RPM below a certain target for the first couple of thousands miles!
I will of course. I was just doing some homework ahead of time to see if there had been some updates due to recent advances such as break in oils etc.
 
The advice I received from Mario Langsten was to vary the revs and speed. Try not to go over 4Krpm, the goal is to keep the engine guessing. First oil change at 500 miles, 2nd 1,000 miles later, 3rd 1,000 miles later, 4th 1,000 later.
 
Interesting that new oem Cars don’t need break in periods anymore. Why is it still needed for rebuilds
 
Find some hills. Vary the load and revs. Make the engine work without too many revs.

I think the red line it out the driveway theory is a racer thing where they usually don't have the time to slowly run an engine in, and they factor in a rebuild every 10,000 klms or so.

Conversely - I have a Honda RC30 and many owners, perhaps because of the exotic nature of the engine, babied the run in with them to the extent that the rings didn't seat properly and glazed. Not much you can do once that has been set.
 
When I was a kid I bought (well my parents) a brand new CR-125
The owner of the dealership asked if he could ride it, I said sure
He whipped it around the back lot for a minute or 2
When he got back I asked 'how do I break it in?", he said I just did it for you
 
I will of course. I was just doing some homework ahead of time to see if there had been some updates due to recent advances such as break in oils etc.
Z-rod Synthetic oil has very good reviews , although there are several high zinc content out there ! Making sure you have proper oil pressure is critical ! So you would want to check and double check oil pressure. If I was to add one axillary guage I would get oil pressure guage, as compared to relaying on the low oil pressure warning light.
Best wishes!
 
Interesting that new oem Cars don’t need break in periods anymore. Why is it still needed for rebuilds

When I picked up my 128i in Munich they said to vary the RPMs, don't stay at one speed for more than 10 minutes, and don't exceed 4500 RPM until 1,000 miles. I did do a brief burst to 145 MPH when it had more than 500 miles on it. :)
 
The rules i know is: not to exceed more than 2/3 of white range RPM's for about 2000km, good idle warming up engine before journey, smooth acceleration (no full throttle for sure), first oil change after about 1000km. If the new engine will be not properly breaked - oil consumption will be much higher through all his life. Mainly because of bad piston rings shape fitting to the cylinder surface shape.
When i was making breaking procedure of new engine in new car (11 years ago) - i didn't exceed more than 1/2 of RPM's for 5000km, oil change was made after 1000km - oil consumption between changes till today is almost 0.
Interesting that new oem Cars don’t need break in periods anymore. Why is it still needed for rebuilds
It's because of engines are in theory factory breaked. But to be true - i think it is only basic break, minimum of minimum and I would say new user still need to make it by himself.
 
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i have been looking into this a bit since i have a new engine that will hopefully get installed sometime soon ... i have read a bunch of technical articles that i got from a porsche specialist / master mechanic friend who now focuses on vintage and race cars these days ... but also keeps up with some very high end P cars for a mutual friend of ours. we had a chat about break in procedures and everything said below is on target with his thoughts, with one exception ... use a break-in oil and only keep it in for 500 miles, changing oil and filter. the break-in oil should be a high detergent oil to collect and get all of the crap out of the engine (assembly oil, etc.). a couple of mineral break-in oils i know of are Brad Penn break in oil (sae 30) and Motul break in oil (10w-40). you can also use the same oil that you are going to run in the engine.

we then got into a lengthy discussion about engine oils in vintage cars. i expected to hear the typical - 'stay away from synthetic oil' in this age of cars. we talked about a few conventional (mineral) oils - his favorite was a high ZDDP oil - Motul classic performance 20w50. he thinks that valvoline vr1 and kendall are very well priced and easily sourced, and also have good ZDDP content, but what he doesn't like about conventional oils is the propensity to become acetic which is problematic ... they also have a condensation problem and the oil not getting hot enough to boil it out.

here are a few things you should watch - perhaps overly simplified
this talks about some oil basics and what happens to conventional oil as it ages - additives breaking down, becoming thicker at cold temperatures and thinner at high temperatures (neither are good)

the second -
synthetic vs conventional oil - a little interesting content

his recommendation is to use a partial synthetic at a minimum ... Brad Penn 20w-50 or Motul 2100 15w-50. the downside is that Motul no longer has the 2100 on their website ... it was a partial synthetic (similar to the 4100), but was made for engines made after 1970. he is going to have a discussion with Motul on the former 2100 vs the current 4100 partial synthetic oil.

he also feels that a full synthetic would be the best choice, especially an ester based synthetic like Motul 300v 15w-50 (its just ungodly expensive - about 15 bucks / liter). the important aspect is to use similar viscosity oil and not the majority of the synthetics available with 0w-20 to 0w-40 ... or possibly 5w-40.

that being said, i know full synthetic is really good as my 911s has been running mobil 1 0w-40 its entire life and with 80k miles it still reaches all of its original specs. but i can't get over having heard to stay away from full synthetic in vintage cars - even with a new engine. so, unless somebody convinces me otherwise, i am probably going to run Brad Penn 20w-50 (partial synthetic) in my new engine.
 
Check Shell Rotella. Major high in Zddp Many of the E24 guys are running it and very satisfied with it. Brad Penn as well. As to break in procedure, on my fresh M90 it will be varied up and down on the revs not to exceed 4500 with first two oil changes at 500 intervals then next at 1000 and then conventional 3000 from there
 
very familiar with Rotella as well, primarily a diesel oil. i believe Gary is running it in his e28 M5. in conventional oil it comes in 15w-40 and 10w-30 ...
in e9 engines, the recommendation is either 20w-50 or 20w-40. as my new engine is a euro b34 i am curious as to what the recommended oil viscosity is for that engine. i have read test data on ZDDP content of this oil but i don't find any reference in the shell info online.

there are several different formulations
T4 - conventional oil 15w-40
T5 - synthetic blend 15w-40 or 10w-30
T6 - full synthetic but only in 0w-40 and 5w-40 or 5w-30 ... so not correct viscosity for a coupe engine

remember the test data on diesel trucks is that they run for a long time at highway speeds which is less wear + tear on the engine. its the start up and slow speed stuff that does a number on the oil ... also the unburned fuel that goes into the oil at low speeds that messes with the oil.
 
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