Routine Engine Annual Maintenance Suggestions
- Thread starter neon
- Start date
in that write up it is recomended a 0,008 so 0,20mm
the blue books say 0,25 to 0,30mm
which one is right ?
My Haynes Manual says .006 to .008 (.15mm to .20mm). I've always followed the advice below on my M10s
Good reply on FAQ here:
I don't have a .007 feeler, but what I did set up was a keyfob with the .006 and the .008 feelers on it. Sort of a GO/NO GO guage. The 6 should slide in very easy, and the 8 should just catch or not go in at all. I have the feelers with the angled tips.
Do your adjustment with a cold motor. Don't overtighten the nuts on the adjusters. We found one on my son's car that the PO had stripped. And those nuts/bolts are not a corner hardware store item.
From Mike Miller Tech Talk:
The document I sent answers all your questions, as does the owner's manual in the glove box. Please read both.
Let's go over this again in answer to your specific questions:
1) Gearbox oil drain interval is every 30,000 miles. Time is not a factor. Has the car traveled 30,000 miles since the gearbox was installed (and hopefully drained and filled)? I use and recommend Red Line MTL. Reseal any leaks before filling the gearbox.
2) Differential oil drain interval is every 30,000 miles. Time is not a factor. Has the car traveled 30,000 miles since the last gearbox oil change? If the answer is that you don't know, then change the differential oil now. I use and recommend Red Line 75W-90, which is formulated for limited slip and open differentials. Two new seal rings are required. Reseal any leaks before filling the differential.
3) Brake fluid change interval is once a year, using a DOT 4 brake fluid. Mileage is not a factor. Racing is a factor. This means changing the clutch fluid too. I prefer to do it in spring time, but if the car hasn't had a brake fluid change in 10 years I recommend doing it ASAP. It will probably take two liters of fresh brake fluid to fully flush out the system due to dirt and water. I use and recommend ATE SL or Pentosin Super brake fluid. DO NOT USE RACING BRAKE FLUID IN THE STREET CAR.
4) I would not use synthetic oil in an engine that has a cork drain pan gasket, like this one. I use and recommend Kendall GT-1 20W-50 changed at 5,000-mile intervals. Reseal any leaks before filling the engine. At the first oil change, have oil analysis performed including the TBN number by www.blackstone-labs.com and be sure to tell them you want to confirm the drain interval. I would not worry about the passage of time within reasonable limits. Every single time I have drained oil based upon the passage of time and not mileage, the analysis has come back saying the oil was fine.
5) Engine coolant change interval is every two years. In the case of coolant, mileage is not a factor. Heat cycles are a factor, but coolant analysis is expensive and complicated. Coolant changes are simple on this engine. I use and recommend original BMW anti-freeze mixed 50-50 with distilled water. Drain the radiator and drain the engine block by removing the engine block coolant drain plug. A new seal ring will be required.
The document I sent answers all your questions, as does the owner's manual in the glove box. Please read both.
Let's go over this again in answer to your specific questions:
1) Gearbox oil drain interval is every 30,000 miles. Time is not a factor. Has the car traveled 30,000 miles since the gearbox was installed (and hopefully drained and filled)? I use and recommend Red Line MTL. Reseal any leaks before filling the gearbox.
2) Differential oil drain interval is every 30,000 miles. Time is not a factor. Has the car traveled 30,000 miles since the last gearbox oil change? If the answer is that you don't know, then change the differential oil now. I use and recommend Red Line 75W-90, which is formulated for limited slip and open differentials. Two new seal rings are required. Reseal any leaks before filling the differential.
3) Brake fluid change interval is once a year, using a DOT 4 brake fluid. Mileage is not a factor. Racing is a factor. This means changing the clutch fluid too. I prefer to do it in spring time, but if the car hasn't had a brake fluid change in 10 years I recommend doing it ASAP. It will probably take two liters of fresh brake fluid to fully flush out the system due to dirt and water. I use and recommend ATE SL or Pentosin Super brake fluid. DO NOT USE RACING BRAKE FLUID IN THE STREET CAR.
4) I would not use synthetic oil in an engine that has a cork drain pan gasket, like this one. I use and recommend Kendall GT-1 20W-50 changed at 5,000-mile intervals. Reseal any leaks before filling the engine. At the first oil change, have oil analysis performed including the TBN number by www.blackstone-labs.com and be sure to tell them you want to confirm the drain interval. I would not worry about the passage of time within reasonable limits. Every single time I have drained oil based upon the passage of time and not mileage, the analysis has come back saying the oil was fine.
5) Engine coolant change interval is every two years. In the case of coolant, mileage is not a factor. Heat cycles are a factor, but coolant analysis is expensive and complicated. Coolant changes are simple on this engine. I use and recommend original BMW anti-freeze mixed 50-50 with distilled water. Drain the radiator and drain the engine block by removing the engine block coolant drain plug. A new seal ring will be required.
Spec is .010 - .012 at the valve stem. If you want to do it at the cam then divide by 1.26, i.e. .012 = .009.
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so i am checking the owners hand book
engine oil, every 6 months, or 7500km, change filter too
power steering, check 15000km, change filter every 60000km
gearbox, change oil 30000km
diff, check level 15000km
coolant, change 2 years
brake fluid, change once a year
Hi Folks,
I won’t name names, but a member felt that mixing m10 specs with m30 could be confusing. Since MK’s has M10’s I won’t be moving anything. Please pay attention to and/or address the motor in question when browsing this thread.
I won’t name names, but a member felt that mixing m10 specs with m30 could be confusing. Since MK’s has M10’s I won’t be moving anything. Please pay attention to and/or address the motor in question when browsing this thread.
Yes M30 has different specs than M10 but the technique is valid
Andrew and others in Forum: Thanks for all the suggestions
Just to clarify about the low miles - I drive maybe 20 to 30 min every week or so in summer and fall. I would like to drive my car to Maine from CT but am afraid of getting stuck in the rain, I have no garage in Maine and it is on the ocean double rust whammy.
I have always wondered about this. Your garage in SoCal is bone dry I assume. My storage in Ft. Myers is climate controlled with AC, so not very humid. Since our cars spend >99 percent of their life parked, indoors, how much moisture can the brake fluid really absorb?
I have owned several old Alfas and paid for several caliper rebuilds, but I am assuming this is because at one point in the old Alfas life it was parked under a tree for a decade or so because it was rusty and close to worthless. And it was in a period of neglect like this that the brake fluid absorbed a ton of moisture, leading to a frozen or nearly frozen caliper.
Brake fluid testers remove the guess work. There are several ranging from a $10 pen to $40 for a professional digital analyzer they are available on amazon & auto parts stores.
Thanks! I did not know there was such a device. Will check it out.
Brake fluid absorbs 3% of its weight in water every year. Most car makers want you to change your brake fluid every 3 years. I think BMW is still sticking with every 2 years for their new cars. My 72 Bav owners' manual says to change it once a year.
Water is heavier than brake fluid and will find the lowest point in the system...the calipers. Not only is it attacking the parts there, if enough water accumulates it will turn to steam under heavy braking use resulting in NO braking. Water is accumulating in the system whether you are driving the car or it's sitting in the garage.
It's pretty quick and easy to run a pint of brake fluid through the system bleeding each caliper and getting rid of the water that has accumulated there. If you're not a DIYer, an indi ship will only charge $100 or so for a complete fluid change.
If you use a brake fluid tester, be sure you pull the sample from a bleeder valve at a caliper.
If your car won't go, it's inconvenient. If it won't stop, it's deadly.
Water is heavier than brake fluid and will find the lowest point in the system...the calipers. Not only is it attacking the parts there, if enough water accumulates it will turn to steam under heavy braking use resulting in NO braking. Water is accumulating in the system whether you are driving the car or it's sitting in the garage.
It's pretty quick and easy to run a pint of brake fluid through the system bleeding each caliper and getting rid of the water that has accumulated there. If you're not a DIYer, an indi ship will only charge $100 or so for a complete fluid change.
If you use a brake fluid tester, be sure you pull the sample from a bleeder valve at a caliper.
If your car won't go, it's inconvenient. If it won't stop, it's deadly.
I bleed my brakes and clutch once a year, takes about an hour or so and costs $10. Cheap insurance and keeps the calipers fresh, there usually is some questionable crap that comes out.
yes, not once a year but every other year,
i change the whole fluid and put fresh one, it is 12€
a pity there is no more the blue colour one to clearly know when is fully changed
Marc-M
Well-Known Member
Antifreeze Change
On my classic cars it is recommended to use the blue coloured antifreeze as this will not attack some parts of the engine and or rubbers… something to do with not having OAT (organic acid technology)-
However, after a few years it loses its rust inhibiting properties.
This is what i use in the UK -
www.bluecol.co.uk
So, I always change the stuff every 2 years.
I would be interested if anyone is using alternatives (the yellow coloured stuff) and if they have had any problems.... or not
Marc
On my classic cars it is recommended to use the blue coloured antifreeze as this will not attack some parts of the engine and or rubbers… something to do with not having OAT (organic acid technology)-
However, after a few years it loses its rust inhibiting properties.
This is what i use in the UK -
Bluecol - Antifreeze 2 year 1L- Winter Car Care
Bluecol 2 year antifreeze 1L is a glycol based antifreeze and engine coolant. Suitable for classic and vintage vehicles.
www.bluecol.co.uk
So, I always change the stuff every 2 years.
I would be interested if anyone is using alternatives (the yellow coloured stuff) and if they have had any problems.... or not
Marc
Antifreeze Change
On my classic cars it is recommended to use the blue coloured antifreeze as this will not attack some parts of the engine and or rubbers… something to do with not having OAT (organic acid technology)-
However, after a few years it loses its rust inhibiting properties.
This is what i use in the UK -
Bluecol - Antifreeze 2 year 1L- Winter Car Care
Bluecol 2 year antifreeze 1L is a glycol based antifreeze and engine coolant. Suitable for classic and vintage vehicles.
So, I always change the stuff every 2 years.
I would be interested if anyone is using alternatives (the yellow coloured stuff) and if they have had any problems.... or not
Marc
i vaguely recall this is not a matter of colour, i mean we found that there are different colours in different countries, so you can not rely on colour only
i use the yellow stuff from valeo at 50%
the only true is that you should not use the organic stuff
in any case yes the product looses its properties and has to be replaced