Had my ‘74 CS for 24 years now, she’s never seen any rain or winter driving Since I’ve had her. No new rust anywhere, BUT, I’m still too chicken to jack her up at the original re-inforced jacking points. Instead I use other areas on or close to the subframes. Anybody ever have the original points collapse? Curious.
Rust/jacking areas
- Thread starter bill
- Start date
I have never come across it.
My car still held up, and it had rust come through the outer rear quarter panels & sills.
I your case I think they will hold up just fine. Still I think the frame rails up front and the rear trust rods or trailing arms are better lift points.
I think it will happen on cars where entire sections have rusted away, like when the floor plug holes are just not recognizable anymore (as being originally round).
My car still held up, and it had rust come through the outer rear quarter panels & sills.
I your case I think they will hold up just fine. Still I think the frame rails up front and the rear trust rods or trailing arms are better lift points.
I think it will happen on cars where entire sections have rusted away, like when the floor plug holes are just not recognizable anymore (as being originally round).
Honolulu
Well-Known Member
I jack the front on the "frame" rails or middle of the crossmember, and use a plywood or another wood pad on my jack at the standard rear points. Distribution of the load, and not scratching the car, are the primary intentions. If you're concerned that rust has degraded the standard jack points to the point where they may give way (like my '58 Bug) then you have larger problems.
Jacking any car is easier if you drive it up on a 4x6 (actually 3.5" thick). I put a short 2x4 as a step-up before the 4x6. Mostly this is just so the jack can be rolled under the car more easily, and I can see the spot I'm applying the lift to. This particularly applies to my '01 325Ci which is low enough to the ground that my jack can't be rolled under it from the front.
Jacking any car is easier if you drive it up on a 4x6 (actually 3.5" thick). I put a short 2x4 as a step-up before the 4x6. Mostly this is just so the jack can be rolled under the car more easily, and I can see the spot I'm applying the lift to. This particularly applies to my '01 325Ci which is low enough to the ground that my jack can't be rolled under it from the front.
I had the jack go through the rust on my 77 E24. But it was rusty, one day a friend was driving it on the Long Island Expressway and the battery fell through the rusty tray. Learned my lesson a long time a ago, but I forgot it because it was a long time ago.