School me on clocks

Markos

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Hi Folks,

I have two clocks, both from a CSI. The font on my parts car clock looks a bit off white though, but not necessarily 2800CS color. The interesting thing is that the clock dated ‘72 looks like newer tech than the ‘73. I don’t see a lot of the clocks with the plastic back. Both don’t work. The ‘73 clock buzzes if you hold your ear to it. Note the wording at 6PM. The plastic one has a little screw adjuster on the back.

1973 clock, from the parts CSI:
7BD975A6-2BB2-4718-941B-000EF364BC76.jpeg

96FD785C-721E-448A-B82E-9F02A05F21B3.jpeg


1972 Clock from a CSI cluster I purchased:
EC8AE975-0DE0-4B8B-87DE-51A892EAAB79.jpeg
7A6D48DF-ED07-4CCE-B577-46EC844CDA24.jpeg
 

zinz

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The electro-mechanical one can usually be repaired pretty easily. There’s a fuseable link that gets popped. Resoldering it gets them going again.

I’ve fixed a few 2002 Tii clocks in this way

Ed
 

Arde

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Why does one need to wind a clock that receives 12v power?

Because a DC motor would be very innacurate, it has to be based on some harmonic movement at the physical level.
Bad example, it is very inaccurate anyways...
 

Stevehose

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Yes there's a little electrical mechanism that winds the spring back each time after it provides a certain amount of clock power. It has a subtle "thunk" noise every so often when it does. Like Zinz says there is a fuseable link (like the one on the back case of your 73) that often blows, also I think there is a set of points that also can be rejuvenated if that is the problem.

Why does one need to wind a clock that receives 12v power?
 

zinz

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Here’s the FAQ thread with pictures to help you along :)

 

jefflit

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A PO sent my clock to Commercial Speedometer in West Sacramento and had a quartz movement installed. That part is fine and works great. However, unless I'm mistaken, they installed the face upside down. It wasn't held into the dash properly and now I think I know why.

The tabs on the housing only match to the studs on the cluster if the socket is at the bottom of the cluster, but in that orientation, the 6 is at the top. I assuming, from photos above, that the light socket should be by the 6, not the 12, correct? Assuming so... any advice on taking this sucker apart? The chrome bezel spins and has a crimp on one side but doesn't unscrew or pry off easily. At the adjustment knob has the smallest roll pin I've ever seen that appears to hold it in place. I'm guessing I should be able to push that pin out to remove the knob and then carefully pry the chrome bezel off? Am I on the right track?

Then I can remove the two screws on the face and rotate it 180. This would not require removal of the needles. But while I'm in there, I might consider cleaning them up. They are pretty yellowed. Are they a phosphorescent paint or does anyone have advice on restoring them to their former glory?

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clock1.png
 
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