so, what kind of garage flooring do members have / recommend?

rsporsche

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i looked at the swisstrax / racedeck products ... haven't priced it yet. i really like the look of it but i'm not sure i want to deal with the open slots for leaves / dust to get under the tiles ... and having to pick up parts of it to clean the floor underneath.
 

Bmachine

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i looked at the swisstrax / racedeck products ... haven't priced it yet. i really like the look of it but i'm not sure i want to deal with the open slots for leaves / dust to get under the tiles ... and having to pick up parts of it to clean the floor underneath.
Yes, I was concerned about that as well. Strangely, most people seemed to say that in reality, it turns out to not be much of an issue over time. They just clean it up with a shopvac every few months and it ends up being not a problem.
 

Markos

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I’ve had no issues with durability on my epoxy floor. My only complaint is the flakes and a few areas where I missed the poly.
 

StephenZ

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I did roll out vinyl in my three car garage. There wasn't any vapor barrier under my slab, so no coatings will ever stick properly. I like the vinyl, as it's a bit warmer than the concrete, and looks decent. The trouble is that it stains and gets dirty easily, but I'm also a contractor/custom woodworker, and I've painted a few cars in there....and weld a bunch... so I've put it through more than most. My larger tools roll fine on it and my E3 is on dollies and rolls on it, too, so that's a definite up side.
Here's a pic of part of the garage from two years ago floor was still fairly clean....scariest part is how much the car hasn't changed and how much my kids have!! Holy crap!
IMG_5304.jpg
 
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JFENG

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i looked at the swisstrax / racedeck products ... haven't priced it yet. i really like the look of it but i'm not sure i want to deal with the open slots for leaves / dust to get under the tiles ... and having to pick up parts of it to clean the floor underneath.

Regarding the snap together flooring with holes/slots
How well do these work with
(1) small fasteners that you’ve dropped (aluminum, copper, plastic and stainless bits)
(2) liquid spills ( coolant, petroleum lubricants, hydraulic fluids), sawdust and wood chips etc
(3) jack stands, floor jacks, cherry pickers, and yes maybe a couple times a year now and I move a 8000lbs capacity drive-one lift around (is the plastic hard enough to resist gouging but these types of garage tools?
(4) chemicals (acetone, lacquer thinner, alcohol).
(5) hot metal: usually from cutting something with a plasma cutter or even a cutoff wheel

Seems
Like these beauty products are more for garage queens than cara that get worked on
 

JFENG

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FWIW:
. The consensus on most sites I visited seemed to be to stay away from the epoxy. Apparently it looks great at first but it is a mess to prep for and it doesn't hold up


We had an epoxy floor installed at work and it’s held up beautifully for 12 years. The space is used primarily for working on cars (electronics prototyping, cosmetic fabrication, light repairs). Cars go in/out daily, and the space includes a metal fab shop, a paint shop, and engineering cubicles. We run a pallet jack all over the place and move cars on dollies as well as under their own power. This stuff is really durable.


The floor was professionally prepped by a contractor, and then our techs laid the epoxy themselves. No flakes. They used sand to add just a bit of texture, it is not too slippery when wet but doesn’t tear you up when lying on it to work under a car. Clean up is simple (sweep and occasionally wet mop).


I was told that prep included degreasing followed by acid etch, both being essential to good adhesion. The epoxy paint was a two part, and the guys had to wear organic vapor masks and use active ventilation when applying it. If I ever fix my cracked up slab (crappy backfill by crappy contractor), I would be happy with this type of flooring.
 

mulberryworks

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I dropped a critical screw the other day. Vanished. I actually just slide a big welding magnet along the floor until it gets picked up. It is a pain and it happens like once a month. :D

A powerful flashlight laid on its side will highlight dropped fasteners. I've had to do this for many a dropped computer screw on carpet. Works like a charm.
 

Bmachine

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I was told that prep included degreasing followed by acid etch, both being essential to good adhesion. The epoxy paint was a two part, and the guys had to wear organic vapor masks and use active ventilation when applying it. If I ever fix my cracked up slab (crappy backfill by crappy contractor), I would be happy with this type of flooring.
It really sounds like that is the key - as with everything in life. If done right by people who know what they are doing, it will work out great.
 

Markos

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FWIW:
I was told that prep included degreasing followed by acid etch, both being essential to good adhesion. The epoxy paint was a two part, and the guys had to wear organic vapor masks and use active ventilation when applying it. If I ever fix my cracked up slab (crappy backfill by crappy contractor), I would be happy with this type of flooring.

You don't need to acid etch if you grind the concrete. I can see why installation companies would not want to grind the concrete. It is messy and likely more expensive. Although acid (at least acid stain) is quite pricey. My kit came with the acid etch but I gifted it to a friend that was doing his. Of course none of this matters if you are having it done. It really is quite easy to do it yourself though.

As mentioned I made mistakes, here is the list in case someone wants to try on their own.

1. I didn't have spiked shoes, they were backordered so I didn't wait
2. I did this in December, hence the heater in the garage - would be much much much easier in the summer
3. I mixed all of the expoxy at once. By the time that I got to the last 100SF It was getting difficult to work with. I should have mixed half at a time
4. I screwed up the flakes as mentioned, wouldn't do flakes again
5. I missed spots with the poly coat. If I had spike shoes this wouldn't have been a problem.
6. Not a big deal but I didn't fill any of the chips in the concrete. I probably would have done that again. Int typical 60's home construction - my concrete floor was otherwise perfect - no cracks. Why can't contractors accomplish this anymore?

I'm not opposed to grinding it off and doing it again in another 5 years or so. The hardest part is cleaning the garage. :D
 

Bmachine

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1. I didn't have spiked shoes, they were backordered so I didn't wait
I can see it already
- Honey, I gotta run to the mall and buy me some new shoes.
- Oh, baby, that's so sweet! You finally decided to dress nice for our evening out tonight. I love you so much!
- Uhhh, actually it's so I can paint the garage floor....
 

rsporsche

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i would have just pulled out my old metal spike golf shoes ... the old ones that i should have thrown away a decade or so ago ... that i found while cleaning up the garage recently. they are now already in the trash / landfill.
 

Ohmess

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A powerful flashlight laid on its side will highlight dropped fasteners. I've had to do this for many a dropped computer screw on carpet. Works like a charm.

For me the lost fasteners become an excuse to sweep the entire garage floor.
 

afeustel

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I used Rust Bullet. Easy to apply and so far (5 years) great durability.
 
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