MTYPE
Well-Known Member
central LA cars & trucks - by owner - craigslist
central LA cars & trucks - by owner - craigslist
losangeles.craigslist.org
Somebody Listing few minutes ago 1971 BMW 3.0CS - for sale $70,000 (Los Angeles)
- Thread starter MTYPE
- Start date
Or you can buy it for $5k less on eBay:
1971 BMW 3.0CS | eBay
The glasswork is all original with the sticker still on. The air damn and fender overriders aren’t on the car presently, but will be sold with the car. This explains why there is very little rust in the bodywork of my car.
www.ebay.com
It didn’t meet reserve on BaT last week. I don't think it is a $70K coupe.
rickpbaker
Member
It's mine guys. Same as the post here:
e9coupe.com
I'd like $65k for it but very aware of the negotiation I'm going to get through Craigslist in Los Angeles so I gave myself some wiggle room.
1971 Euro 3.0 CS 4 speed on BaT
Bidding and comments are very low with 3 days to the end. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-bmw-3-0cs-4/
e9coupe.com
I'd like $65k for it but very aware of the negotiation I'm going to get through Craigslist in Los Angeles so I gave myself some wiggle room.
rickpbaker
Member
@HB Chris I've had this car for almost 15 years and really wasn't sure how to price it. Never sold an E9 before and as you're no doubt aware, prices have been all over the map for these the past year. Like all of us here I've done a lot of work to it over the years. There's always more one could do, but I have other projects I need to focus on so hoping someone wants a nice looking daily driver with little rust and some upside if they want to tackle some of the cosmetic issues. But I value your thoughts on areas I could focus on to justify my asking price.
Rick - I appreciate you communication on this. Maybe we can help.
We can provide some insights from looking at pictures, but I think your best course of action would be to get an inspection from someone who can actually look at the car. Obviously, finding a forum member who lives close to you would be a good way to go, but if that doesn't work consider paying a shop that knows these cars. You mentioned in your BAT auction that Carl Nelson has done some work on your car within the past couple of years - an inspection from him would be great.
I can say without looking at your car that you should just fix the handful of items you mentioned in your auction - small fluid leaks, needs a dome light and needs a valve adjustment - along with any other items you know about but haven't addressed.
That said, the rust situation on your car is the top priority. I think the BAT commentary about the panel replacements and your comment about the remaining rust hurt your auction. You stated in your BAT auction that you had the car down to bare metal 15 years ago. Do you have pictures of that work? Receipts associated with the body and/or paint work? Also, I would put together a collection of pictures of the rust prone areas for potential buyers. https://e9coupe.com/forum/pages/rust-prone-areas/
We can provide some insights from looking at pictures, but I think your best course of action would be to get an inspection from someone who can actually look at the car. Obviously, finding a forum member who lives close to you would be a good way to go, but if that doesn't work consider paying a shop that knows these cars. You mentioned in your BAT auction that Carl Nelson has done some work on your car within the past couple of years - an inspection from him would be great.
I can say without looking at your car that you should just fix the handful of items you mentioned in your auction - small fluid leaks, needs a dome light and needs a valve adjustment - along with any other items you know about but haven't addressed.
That said, the rust situation on your car is the top priority. I think the BAT commentary about the panel replacements and your comment about the remaining rust hurt your auction. You stated in your BAT auction that you had the car down to bare metal 15 years ago. Do you have pictures of that work? Receipts associated with the body and/or paint work? Also, I would put together a collection of pictures of the rust prone areas for potential buyers. https://e9coupe.com/forum/pages/rust-prone-areas/
Rick, You were honest and open in your description of your coupe which is always appreciated, many sellers are not so forthright. Prices right now are indeed all over the map but we are also not seeing recently restored or completely original coupes for sale either. The Internet has a long memory which is unfortunate but waiting a year or so if you could would help you in the long run. Along with things like installing the hood torsion bar, pressure washing the underside and engine bay. Right now it shows the years of accumulated dirt and oil underneath with the possible perceived lack of maintenance of things like steering and suspension bushings, half-shafts, shocks, calipers and other items which the next owner would likely tackle, it all adds up and is not inexpensive. The paint is also showing its age with nicks and scrapes and the belt trim was installed too soon after paint causing those wrinkles and the rust on the corners of the door bottoms will always be a concern. As a ‘driver’ these are not huge issues. You are fortunate to have so much history with your coupe and you have obviously cared for it, we all hope you can find the next caretaker who will cherish it as much as you have.
rickpbaker
Member
Just wanted to thank you Chris and Ohmess for your advice. Spent several thousand over the months resolving some of the issues from earlier this year that you guys helped me with.