Hey Walter,
Thanks but I think I want to go to the vented rotors in the back as well.
Just haven't gotten to that fix yet. Too many others.
Thanks for the link for the fronts. Please tell us what you think when you get the new calipers.
Gary
Source for rebuilt front calipers?
- Thread starter m5bb
- Start date
Hey Walter,
Thanks but I think I want to go to the vented rotors in the back as well.
Just haven't gotten to that fix yet. Too many others.
Thanks for the link for the fronts. Please tell us what you think when you get the new calipers.
Gary
sreams
Well-Known Member
RockAuto seems to have a bunch of front caliper options available:
www.rockauto.com
I see Raybestos rebuilt calipers including pads and hardware for about $77 each.
-S
www.rockauto.com
I see Raybestos rebuilt calipers including pads and hardware for about $77 each.
-S
Thanks, I saw that but when you try to order they don't have it. Already tried.
You can send them (Rockauto) the originals and they have them rebuilt???
Same with the Autozone. They only had one front caliper.
Good one........ I'll try that.
First I removed caliper and disassembled and cleaned and checked everything. Found some corrosion in landing where rubber seal seats.
Cleaned with Dremel tool with wire brush attachment. Cleaned with brake clean and reassembled.
Then got a chance to try this yesterday.
Drove a few miles to store and then back home and right in garage and up on jack.
Wheel was hard to turn by hand.
Got wrench and loosened bleeder screw just enough for a burp.
Wheel now turnable with one hand. Still tight but not locked up.
Ordered new SS hoses today.
Your description so far sounds like a master cylinder that is not releasing pressure.
Wouldn't that affect all the brakes?
Right now it's only the drivers side front?
The car had a master installed by the previous owner in 2009. I know that doesn't mean it's still good?
Update-
LF caliper still dragging after brake hose replacement in front both sides.
Dilemma, to rebuild master or replace? Had to remove master to find what bore size it was to order rebuild kit.
Not a lot of fun removing as metal brake lines attached on bottom of master are a pain to get undone.
After getting master out and inspecting I noticed fluid in brake booster.
Searched for that and I don't need that problem of sucking fluid into engine so on we go. My brake booster is one ugly dude even though it was working (not sure how much is right) I decided to remove it as well.
After moving the power steering reservoir with hoses attached out of the way and then removing battery and oh that relay next to battery has got to come out as well. Dip stick too. Luckily blue manual tells me about pin at brake pedal and with some correct words applied I was able to remove the brake booster.
Now what to do? I managed to suck (with a baster) a cup or more of brake fluid out of the booster.
Decided to see what the options for the booster are?
No new ones.
No rebuilt ones.
Did some googling and found a Triumph site talking about a company in Indiana that rebuilds. Called them and they don't rebuild ATE as he said he could not get the parts but gave me the name of a company in CA.
Looked them up and they listed many BMW units but said they did not do the CS units.
Well another phone call and a little waiting and Kyle said he could rebuild my booster. He had the parts. $189.75 + ship.
So today I sent all 17 lbs of booster off to CA to be rebuilt.
Can't tell you yet what it looks like or how it works.
We will be gone for about 12 days so might be waiting for me when I get back.
Also ordered a new master. At least something on my coupe will be new and work.
Here's the name:
Power Brake Exchange in San Jose CA.
Kyle-
http://pwrbrake.com/
They even offer concours finishes.
LF caliper still dragging after brake hose replacement in front both sides.
Dilemma, to rebuild master or replace? Had to remove master to find what bore size it was to order rebuild kit.
Not a lot of fun removing as metal brake lines attached on bottom of master are a pain to get undone.
After getting master out and inspecting I noticed fluid in brake booster.
Searched for that and I don't need that problem of sucking fluid into engine so on we go. My brake booster is one ugly dude even though it was working (not sure how much is right) I decided to remove it as well.
After moving the power steering reservoir with hoses attached out of the way and then removing battery and oh that relay next to battery has got to come out as well. Dip stick too. Luckily blue manual tells me about pin at brake pedal and with some correct words applied I was able to remove the brake booster.
Now what to do? I managed to suck (with a baster) a cup or more of brake fluid out of the booster.
Decided to see what the options for the booster are?
No new ones.
No rebuilt ones.
Did some googling and found a Triumph site talking about a company in Indiana that rebuilds. Called them and they don't rebuild ATE as he said he could not get the parts but gave me the name of a company in CA.
Looked them up and they listed many BMW units but said they did not do the CS units.
Well another phone call and a little waiting and Kyle said he could rebuild my booster. He had the parts. $189.75 + ship.
So today I sent all 17 lbs of booster off to CA to be rebuilt.
Can't tell you yet what it looks like or how it works.
We will be gone for about 12 days so might be waiting for me when I get back.
Also ordered a new master. At least something on my coupe will be new and work.
Here's the name:
Power Brake Exchange in San Jose CA.
Kyle-
http://pwrbrake.com/
They even offer concours finishes.
Gary,
now would have been a good time to try a swap to the tii booster, its much thinner than the cs booster. i couldn't believe the size of that thing when i saw it this weekend.
i'm sure you were using brake line wrenches to remove the lines. hard to believe they were that difficult to remove if it was replaced a few years ago.
i think replacing the master is a good idea and rebuilding the booster ... new brakes are good insurance
best
scott
now would have been a good time to try a swap to the tii booster, its much thinner than the cs booster. i couldn't believe the size of that thing when i saw it this weekend.
i'm sure you were using brake line wrenches to remove the lines. hard to believe they were that difficult to remove if it was replaced a few years ago.
i think replacing the master is a good idea and rebuilding the booster ... new brakes are good insurance
best
scott
hi
if you have a 3.0 cs, i assume that you have the same simple effect brake booster than me, that is the thinner one (csi were equipped with the double booster and that means double thickness)
sucking brake fluid into the booster is the last stage of the booster destruction, but the fault is NOT in the booster, but in the brake master cyl, those rubber joints of the master cyl are leaking, andthe booster is suctioning as much as he can in each push of the pedal
you must change both
yes, i know it is a pain to find a booster they are not available anymore, so good luck with your rebuild
the good news is that our simple effect <1973 booster can be dissasembled because it is not welded (like the >1973 ones)
i found a second hand ina wreck and i am rebuilding it by myself, it had the same sympthoms, brake fluid inside, thus nice corrosion inside, so i have gone through sanding, galvanizing and epoxi painting again, we will see how it finishes
good luck
note, i wanted to try an e30 brake booster simple effect one in my e9, i found it one and ahalf centimeters bigger in diameter, i did not try it in the car but it seemed to me that it would made interference with the steering box that lays underneath, i think it would not work, but ...(the rest of the dimensions were exactly the same)
if you have a 3.0 cs, i assume that you have the same simple effect brake booster than me, that is the thinner one (csi were equipped with the double booster and that means double thickness)
sucking brake fluid into the booster is the last stage of the booster destruction, but the fault is NOT in the booster, but in the brake master cyl, those rubber joints of the master cyl are leaking, andthe booster is suctioning as much as he can in each push of the pedal
you must change both
yes, i know it is a pain to find a booster they are not available anymore, so good luck with your rebuild
the good news is that our simple effect <1973 booster can be dissasembled because it is not welded (like the >1973 ones)
i found a second hand ina wreck and i am rebuilding it by myself, it had the same sympthoms, brake fluid inside, thus nice corrosion inside, so i have gone through sanding, galvanizing and epoxi painting again, we will see how it finishes
good luck
note, i wanted to try an e30 brake booster simple effect one in my e9, i found it one and ahalf centimeters bigger in diameter, i did not try it in the car but it seemed to me that it would made interference with the steering box that lays underneath, i think it would not work, but ...(the rest of the dimensions were exactly the same)
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Yes, I ordered a new master as well knowing it was leaking fluid into the booster.
Never considered rebuilding myself for the same reason as Luis has asked.
Where can you get the diaphragm and other parts? Without those a rebuild would be strictly cosmetic.
A little help.
While I am waiting on the rebuild and parts I need to order some.
I was getting a bunch of warm air recently when driving with a newly rebuilt AC.
I saw the post about the hot air leaking down the floor vent and I have the vent closed better and that is not the problem.
Since something was probably missing on my coupe what goes in the hole where the shaft from the brake booster comes through?
In the diagram for the Pedals-supporting Bracket 35/2 I see part number 35111101013 Gasket. I'm sure that is one I need but what is Cap 35111108673? Probably doesn't matter since it is NLA.
Is there a gasket for the steering column? Cup 32311104156 ?
Is this a rubber cup that goes in the body hole where the column comes through?
While I am waiting on the rebuild and parts I need to order some.
I was getting a bunch of warm air recently when driving with a newly rebuilt AC.
I saw the post about the hot air leaking down the floor vent and I have the vent closed better and that is not the problem.
Since something was probably missing on my coupe what goes in the hole where the shaft from the brake booster comes through?
In the diagram for the Pedals-supporting Bracket 35/2 I see part number 35111101013 Gasket. I'm sure that is one I need but what is Cap 35111108673? Probably doesn't matter since it is NLA.
Is there a gasket for the steering column? Cup 32311104156 ?
Is this a rubber cup that goes in the body hole where the column comes through?
There are several guys that advertise in Hemmings Motor News that do booster rebuilding. They are listed in the services offered section. One that comes to mind is "Booster Dewey"
I believe you will find someone who can rebuild it there.
I believe you will find someone who can rebuild it there.
Thanks Bert, good tip looking in Hemmings. Don't have those around often.
I did find someone though. It was in my original post. Booster is on its way there.
Power Brake Exchange in San Jose CA.
Kyle-
http://pwrbrake.com/
IIRC, you can get into alot of Hemmings on line or, Barnes and Noble has them in their magazine section.
I have the parts to rebuild mine and they have been bead blasted (Didn't split them) . I was contemplating painting them, but if I could get them plated that would be preferable. Anyone know who does this? I guess I would have to have them split to do this.
Bob,
Didn't you have a plater up your way that does genuine-looking cad plating, not just 'yellow' zinc plating? Why don't you send them there? You may not need to split them but the inside may not complete plate.
I split mine and sent them out for plating and turned out great. I could only find the stretch bolts and square profile o-rings at W&N. Otherwise, splitting them is an uneventful affair.
Didn't you have a plater up your way that does genuine-looking cad plating, not just 'yellow' zinc plating? Why don't you send them there? You may not need to split them but the inside may not complete plate.
I split mine and sent them out for plating and turned out great. I could only find the stretch bolts and square profile o-rings at W&N. Otherwise, splitting them is an uneventful affair.
Yes I will check there. I guess I have always heard not to split the callipers, so assume only specialist Gods can get them back together properly. To protect the bores from plating would you just use an expandable rubber plug?