Going through tests to figure out why my coupe won't start after having the MAP sensor rebuilt (it idled with a bad MAP, wouldn't go above 1000rpm.). Disconnected the distributor contact lead, did the paper clip test to check injector operation, heard the fuel pump turn on/off 2 seconds each time I did the test, pretty sure no response from any of the injectors. Question, if the injectors don't click is the ECU suspect? Thanks for any help!
Specific D-jet Question
- Thread starter bill
- Start date
The numbers on the MAP connector have to match the numbers on the wires.
if you put it backwards - car wont run. If its not all the way in- car wont run
if you put it backwards - car wont run. If its not all the way in- car wont run
Every other connector can be hooked up only one way, BUT NOOOOOOO, not the MAP. I plugged it in the wrong way initially. No start. I switched it around, still won't start. I'll keep trying other tests, and will recheck the resistances in the MAP in case they're shot by my mistake ($250 down the drain if so.) Time for a beer or two to regain my patience.
Worst case, put the Webers back in...
Worst case, put the Webers back in...
I do offer a loaner library of all the djet parts.
You pay shipping.
You pay shipping.
Did you touch the red or black or white wires down by the starter?
tochi
Well-Known Member
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Even new parts occasionally fail. Perhaps this is true of the rebuild? If all else remains the same, how about actually testing the replacement part? You should be able to do a rough test with simple vacuum and multimeter.
Sending PM
Thanks, it tests OK.
Thanks Tochi.
Thanks Don...I have these docs, have been using them for my testing. Still NFG. Can I rent an ECU?
Send me a PM with address- I’ll ask you to pay for my shipping costs by donating to our forum.
Thanks Don... PM sent
With gratitude to SFDon who loaned me an ECU, I was able to swap out the ECU in my '74 which I suspected was bad. Sure enough, it was. My coupe started and ran for a few minutes with Don's ECU before I turned it off. This is the second ECU that has gone bad in my car, the first one back in 2011.
The ECU has dozens of transistors, diodes, and other semi-conductors which can't last forever, and only one component needs to blow for an ECU to crap out. Forty plus years for stereo electronics is way too long, the same would apply to auto electronics. I need to consider getting a re-built ECU, which will still have old components, or go back to carbs, a thought which is most unpalatable. But carb problems are sure much easier to diagnose...for the price of constant fiddling with idle adjustments, poor cold running, etc.
Thanks again Don for your assistance, I will get the ECU back to you asap.
The ECU has dozens of transistors, diodes, and other semi-conductors which can't last forever, and only one component needs to blow for an ECU to crap out. Forty plus years for stereo electronics is way too long, the same would apply to auto electronics. I need to consider getting a re-built ECU, which will still have old components, or go back to carbs, a thought which is most unpalatable. But carb problems are sure much easier to diagnose...for the price of constant fiddling with idle adjustments, poor cold running, etc.
Thanks again Don for your assistance, I will get the ECU back to you asap.
They are old.... and harnesses are old...
But!! They are still available and pretty cheap.
that ecu was donated to the group by the gentleman who has a card taped to it.
you can send him a thank you.
It’s been around the world and around the country over and over again.
it’s hard to beat this group.
But!! They are still available and pretty cheap.
that ecu was donated to the group by the gentleman who has a card taped to it.
you can send him a thank you.
It’s been around the world and around the country over and over again.
it’s hard to beat this group.
Thinking out it, there aren’t a lot of electronic components that age to failure (naturally deteriorate over time), or whose failure rate is affected by the kinds of heat normally encountered by an ecu.
Off the cuff I’m thinking capacitors, inductors, adjustable potentiometers, rests, and a perhaps a couple bad solder joints.
What I’m trying to say is ECUs built with discrete components and very simple IC’s should be reativlely to refurbish for the next 45 years, given a schematic.
If I were lucky enough to have D-jet equipped E9, I’d spend the $ to keep the D-jet working.
I am personally more familiar w carbs, and except for crude cold running characteristics, I’ve found cars of all types to be reliable and pretty low maintenance.
Off the cuff I’m thinking capacitors, inductors, adjustable potentiometers, rests, and a perhaps a couple bad solder joints.
What I’m trying to say is ECUs built with discrete components and very simple IC’s should be reativlely to refurbish for the next 45 years, given a schematic.
If I were lucky enough to have D-jet equipped E9, I’d spend the $ to keep the D-jet working.
I am personally more familiar w carbs, and except for crude cold running characteristics, I’ve found cars of all types to be reliable and pretty low maintenance.
These fellows in Germany will diagnose your ECU, or offer you a replacement: https://www.eps-elektronik.com/bmw-control-units/bmw-control-units.php
For trouble-shooting, as mentioned earlier, Dr. D-Jet!
For trouble-shooting, as mentioned earlier, Dr. D-Jet!