Stuck Caliper lol?

[jmackro]

So do you pull the pins and slide them out the top?

Yes, tap out the pins, remove that "+" shaped spring and remove the pads. I lever the pads out using a screw driver - stick its the tip in the hole in the pad where the pins pass through and pry against the caliper body.

Assume that the pistons are fully pressurized and the pads are snug against the rotor. How do you get the pads past the ridge that you mention.

Understand your question, but remember, it takes half the force to push one pad past the ridge than to pull out the caliper with both pads. As long as the hydraulic system is disconnected (or the bleed screw is cracked), the pistons aren't pressurized and will retract a bit.

...you can always whack the caliper with my previously mentioned BFH

I'm not a big fan of using a "BFH" for caliper removal (or most other tasks).

 

[Markos]

Yes, tap out the pins, remove that "+" shaped spring and remove the pads. I lever the pads out using a screw driver - stick its the tip in the hole in the pad where the pins pass through and pry against the caliper body.

Good to know, I'll snap some pics. I need to remove the calipers and rotors from my loose struts.

Understand your question, but remember, it takes half the force to push one pad past the ridge than to pull out the caliper with both pads. As long as the hydraulic system is disconnected (or the bleed screw is cracked), the pistons aren't pressurized and will retract a bit.

Good point. Don said that you can compress the piston a bit by prying on pad. Do you typically open the bleed screw when compressing the calipers or do you just remove the MC cap? I'll be honest, every car I have worked on to in the last 20 years had dual or single piston calipers with sliders. My Volvo 240 had four piston calipers very similar to BMW units but that was ages ago. Sliding calipers would never facilitate the removal of the pads from the top. Many also have spring clips holding them to the piston and/or the outer caliper side. Removing the pads with the caliper fixed in place is never an option - something that I wouldn't have considered having never worked on these brakes.

I'm not a big fan of using a "BFH" for caliper removal (or most other tasks).

To each their own. I use a BFH for a lot of things, especially removing rotors (which I never reuse). To be fair, I usually start with the dead blow and escalate from there.


Anyway - I think I just wore out my welcome in the e3 forum.

 

[Phemisg]

The two pins that hold the pads should have sort of safety clips that keep them from popping out. The pins will need a tap on the small end with a straight punch. You can try gently squeezing the pad ears out against the caliper and then gently work a thin pry bar or big screw driver between the pad and rotor. The idea is to do this top and bottom. The pads slide out. I have sometimes eased them out with a screw driver through the ear hole and lever on caliper. I would clean all those contact surfaces with wire brush and file.
Now if your fluid reservoir is full, and you really push the pistons in, you may overflow. You can use a turkey baster to remove some fluid. DON'T get it on the paint. If you pulled the pipes first, fluid will come out those holes. Keep a tray handy.
Years ago ATE warned against spitting calipers and reusing the special bolts. There are also O-rings in there that may or may not be available. And as I recall, the torque setting was a mystery for those bolts. So I wouldn't split them.

 

[jmackro]

Do you typically open the bleed screw when compressing the calipers

Yes, open the bleed screw. But since Haseeb needs to disconnect the feed lines going into the calipers, the hydraulic system should not be under any pressure.

or do you just remove the MC cap?

Removing the cap won't accomplish much - it's vented, so if the reservoir overflows, excess fluid will still leak out.

 

[Markos]

I only got as far as moving the super heavy assemblies from the shed to the garage.

 

[Phemisg]

As I recall, these have three bleed screws, with two out and one in. I suppose you could loosen the inner one, run tube to catch bottle and push inner pad. I was thinking more of spilled fluid than residual pressure but this is alternative per markos et al above. AS an aside, Volvo calipers are quite similar and are used on 2002 as an upgrade.

 

[Markos]

In defense of the BFH

Sure enough, I use it a lot as mentioned.

19mm bolts on the calipers. Soaked for a few minutes with PB Blaster:

This is what you use when you forget to set your impact gun on reverse. That is actually closet rod, but it is strong enough to use as a cheater:

Trusty orange BFH to remove tap caliper off.

This is where you would pull the pads out.

Tapping off the dust cap with the orange dead blow:

Straightening out the backing plates
with the orange dead blow:

Removing the strut retainer with a BFH:

 

[Markos]

@Haseeb,

Did you keep your snapped bolt? If you measure it you can tell how much thread is stuck in the caliper mount, and if you have enough clearance to remove the caliper without drilling.

Obviously you could just remove the pads and try, but I know the car is off site. Sometimes you can plan for stuff based on some known facts.

Caliper Bolt:

Caliper width. Is your broken bolt around 16mm long? Account for the washer.

 

[Haseeb]

@Haseeb,

Did you keep your snapped bolt? If you measure it you can tell how much thread is stuck in the caliper mount, and if you have enough clearance to remove the caliper without drilling.

Obviously you could just remove the pads and try, but I know the car is off site. Sometimes you can plan for stuff based on some known facts.

Caliper Bolt:
View attachment 44703

Caliper width. Is your broken bolt around 16mm long? Account for the washer.
View attachment 44704

This is super detailed and resourceful! I actually managed to get mine out (though I DESTROYED the brakelines, which were already pretty rusty), It seems as though taking out the bolts and pin that was holding the brake pads inside the caliper (as well as taking out the pads themselves and brake-line) and then giving it an excellent whacking will do the trick. In all honesty, I have no clue where that broken bolt went but I should search for that now LOL