Sunvisor Pivots - old vs. new

jmackro

jmackro

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I realize that there are a LOT of existing threads about sunvisor pivots. Most of these are of the "where can I get them?" form, or announce a new and improved version made from titanium or kryptonite. But I've got a different issue: My existing pivots aren't original; I probably got them 15-or so years ago (forget where; probably Max or W&N). As a part of my current restoration, I thought that I would replace the old, yellowed and probably brittle ones with new ones from W&N. When I got them, I see some differences from the older ones. Notably:

- The new ones have a hexagonal-shaped hole for the shaft, while my old ones have a circular hole. See first photo below.

- The old and new pivots are just shaped differently. The mounting surface against the header is the same but the hole for the sunvisor pivot is more inset on the new one. See second photo below.

Do I need some part that fits into that hexagonal receptacle to make the new ones work on an e9? It looks like the sunvisor shafts will end up positioned further below the header with the new pivots; has anyone used these, and if so, do they work? Or should I just paint my old pivots Ranger white and live with them?

Sun Visor Pivots (1).jpg
Sun Visor Pivots (2).jpg
 
Mine was cracked and broke, so I had no choice to install the new one, it came with a shaft so that is good, but it is shorter than the original one. I was able to install it but the side effect is that I cannot tightened the screw to allow the visor to stay in place but allow movement. I either over tighten and it does not move or I loosen and it drops...

I think it has to do with the shaft being inside a sleeve that perhaps generates the friction I need...

One expert I asked to resolve it could not do much.
 
Arde said:
Mine was cracked and broke, so I had no choice to install the new one, it came with a shaft so that is good, but it is shorter than the original one.
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Arde:

Thank you for the fast reply! Can you clarify what you meant by "it came with a shaft"? Do you mean that your plastic piece came with a second part - probably made of metal - that fits into that hexagonal hole? Do you recall who you got it from? W&N and Maximillian's site just show the plastic part.

Your floppy visors are a different problem. And yes, the mechanism for getting the amount of friction exactly right is kind of klugey. Either too tight or too loose.
 
jmackro said:
Arde:

Thank you for the fast reply! Can you clarify what you meant by "it came with a shaft"? Do you mean that your plastic piece came with a second part - probably made of metal - that fits into that hexagonal hole? Do you recall who you got it from? W&N and Maximillian's site just show the plastic part.

Your floppy visors are a different problem. And yes, the mechanism for getting the amount of friction exactly right is kind of klugey. Either too tight or too loose.
Click to expand...
I picked it up in person from Carl Nelson, the metal part was part of it already integrated into a single assembly. I tried to use the old shaft but they are not compatible. I am almost sure the shorter shaft is the reason I cannot adjust it. My passenger side is original and works fine.
 
jmackro said:
I realize that there are a LOT of existing threads about sunvisor pivots. Most of these are of the "where can I get them?" form, or announce a new and improved version made from titanium or kryptonite. But I've got a different issue: My existing pivots aren't original; I probably got them 15-or so years ago (forget where; probably Max or W&N). As a part of my current restoration, I thought that I would replace the old, yellowed and probably brittle ones with new ones from W&N. When I got them, I see some differences from the older ones. Notably:

- The new ones have a hexagonal-shaped hole for the shaft, while my old ones have a circular hole. See first photo below.

- The old and new pivots are just shaped differently. The mounting surface against the header is the same but the hole for the sunvisor pivot is more inset on the new one. See second photo below.

Do I need some part that fits into that hexagonal receptacle to make the new ones work on an e9? It looks like the sunvisor shafts will end up positioned further below the header with the new pivots; has anyone used these, and if so, do they work? Or should I just paint my old pivots Ranger white and live with them?

View attachment 204790View attachment 204791
Click to expand...
Your old one is not an e9 pivot, rather an e10 or.. No comparison there. WN is correct E9
 

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merdad said:
Your old one is not an e9 pivot, rather an e10 or.. No comparison there. WN is correct E9
Click to expand...
I think I'm finally starting to understand. So I think you are saying:

- The plastic mounts I recently received from W&N are correct for an e9.

- However, the bent, metal shafts connect the mounts to the sunvisors that I have (see first photo below) are not correct; these should have a hexagonal "shoulder" that fits into the hexagonal receptacle on the e9 plastic mounts.

OK, so given this, it seems that my alternatives are:

- Obtain a pair of correct, e9 bent, metal shafts to use with my new, plastic mounts. Where might I find these? Are used parts the only option?

- Just stick with the old mounts that I have - the ones with the circular, instead of hexagonal, holes (see second photo below). Maybe these are not correct for an e9, but they do seem to work with my existing parts.

- Buy a fresh pair of e12 mounts from W&N. These are available as an assembly - plastic and metal parts - as p/n 51161816015 and 016. They are somewhat pricy at $40 each, but would get me shiny new shafts as well as nice, white bases.

Sun Visor Pivots (3).jpg


Sun Visor Pivots (4).jpg
 
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Another option is to call Carl Nelson and see what he has.
Your old plastic part should not go back in, looks like it was in Fukushima.
 
jmackro said:
I think I'm finally starting to understand. So I think you are saying:

- The plastic mounts I recently received from W&N are correct for an e9.

- However, the bent, metal shafts connect the mounts to the sunvisors that I have (see first photo below) are not correct; these should have a hexagonal "shoulder" that fits into the hexagonal receptacle on the e9 plastic mounts.

OK, so given this, it seems that my alternatives are:

- Obtain a pair of correct, e9 bent, metal shafts to use with my new, plastic mounts. Where might I find these? Are used parts the only option?

- Just stick with the old mounts that I have - the ones with the circular, instead of hexagonal, holes (see second photo below). Maybe these are not correct for an e9, but they do seem to work with my existing parts.

- Buy a fresh pair of e12 mounts from W&N. These are available as an assembly - plastic and metal parts - as p/n 51161816015 and 016. They are somewhat pricy at $40 each, but would get me shiny new shafts as well as nice, white bases.

View attachment 204819

View attachment 204820
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Maybe someone here has a broken set that may be willing to part with. You can then use the parts.
The rod is a bit longer on the short end, a beveled kind of nut slips over it and goes through the top of pivot and secured on the back side by a couple of washers, a spring and a securing washer. (BTW, that nut is the cause of breakage due it freezing on the rod and turning the sun-visor brakes the plastic).
 

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It's pretty clear that the hex version is supposed to provide multiple "detention" positions. The domed hex on the rod will cause the rod to move outward against the spring as the rod is rotated. Then the hex will drop into the next position. Although 60 degree increments does seem a bit weird. I'd have used 45 degree (octagonal) increments, since you really want the visor to be "parked" or at 90 degrees
 
Alright, thank you for the photo of the correct part and explanation of why there is a hexagonal socket on the e9 pivot. Still, I have to say that the e12 pivots do work OK and don't look all that incorrect.
 
ScottAndrews said:
It's pretty clear that the hex version is supposed to provide multiple "detention" positions. The domed hex on the rod will cause the rod to move outward against the spring as the rod is rotated. Then the hex will drop into the next position. Although 60 degree increments does seem a bit weird. I'd have used 45 degree (octagonal) increments, since you really want the visor to be "parked" or at 90 degrees
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That is interesting, discrete stop points... My problem is not that lateral motion but the vertical up/down of the visor which has no stops... The shiny look of the rod that Merdad mentions is evidence that it is all about friction...
 
jmackro said:
Chernobyl, actually. But sure, I'd paint it at a minimum, since it will be going on a new headliner.
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Be aware that installing new shiny parts releases endorphins. Old repainted parts, toxins.
 
This may be old news or incorrect. But better safe than a broken plastic visor pin.

Sun Visor Rule #1. Never, ever pull the visor off the "clip" to shade the door window. The plastic pins, like everything plastic, are old, brittle, and tend to break. Like my 83 year old bones. I owned two running Coupes back in the day and never unclipped a visor after my mechanic showed me one with a broken pin.

But for some reason I can unclip and clip the visors on my '72 Bavaria at will. Nothing breaks. There was a serious, expensive restoration by a previous owner about 15 years ago. Perhaps that has something to do with it. But I suspect the next time I unclip a visor the plastic pin will snap.
 
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