Surfa's 1971 2800CSA

DaSurfa

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1971 2800CSA vin-2280504. Built on March 4, 1971 and delivered to Hoffman motors in NY on April 26, 1971. Originally polaris 060 but was repainted chamonix 085 over 10 years ago maybe longer. My friend purchased it over 10 years ago from someone in Southern Cali. and the restoration was done by the previous owner. No mods or restoring was done by my friend who basically just drove it and did the normal maintenance. It was his daily driver for a couple of years, until he couldn't find the guy who would pass smog for him and just parked it in his garage for the last 6 years. Lucky for me Nevada just changed the registration rules for classic plates where you didn't need to smog.

For the last 3 weeks since I purchased this car, I've been just doing some TLC to it and been driving it off and on. Even though it sat for over 6 years, it started right up after my friend flushed the gas tank. I just recently changed the points over to a Pertronix, and also replaced all the plugs with NGKs and bosch wires. I made a mistake of taking out the distributor when installing the Pertronix and it took me 4 days to figure out the TDC and get my car to start. I followed the advice from this forum to set the rotor at about 8 o'clock position when in TDC but still my car would not start. Then reinstalled old points and reset TDC and finally it started but only when I set the rotor at the 9 o'clock position. Car now starts up fine and runs good but still has a slight shake. Is this normal or should my engine be really smooth at idle? Also car feels a little sluggish on acceleration, car has hard time going pass 4,000 rpm.

My 2800CSA has the stock A/C and it runs fine for sitting over 6 years. Only thing is that it kinda overheats my engine in stop and go traffic. Needle goes up to about 3/4 mark in temp gauge. Also the fuel gauge needle sits between the 3/4 and full mark even when I fill the tank up with gas. My tachometer is working fine but the speedometer is very jumpy and shows that I'm at 120mph when I'm only going 35mph. I checked the speedo cable connection at tranny and noticed that the bolt holding cable end will not go all the way in and was only safety wired in. There is some oil leaking from this area as well. Since the bolt won't thread in with the speedo cable inserted, I just removed cable and safety wired it to frame temporarily and been using my gps navigation to show how fast I'm going.

Overall condition of vehicle is very good with minimal rust, maybe it had to do with stored in this dry desert environment. Only rust I could find was on trunk lid where the 2800CS emblem sits. Looks like my friend drove vehicle even in the rain and somehow water got into the lid area where emblem sits and there is some rusting. I checked the front bumper area and the rockers had no rust. I also looked in the trunk where the shock towers are at and no rust as well. Guess I lucked out with this CS.

Here is my new baby after I gave it a really good wash, polish, and waxing.
Still has the original Hella rally lights and they still work fine.
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Cleaned up the interior a bit but the wood on doors need to be refinished or replaced. The dry desert climate has cracked and peeled them. But the leather seats are in excellent condition with now cracks or rips. Anyone seen this steering Fittipaldi wheel use on a CS before?
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Nicad

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Nice looking Coupe. Sounds like the way mine runs. I am hoping carb rebuilds bring back some Zest. My compression was good according to the forum brain trust. You might want to check yours. I'd highly advise going through your cooling system and replacing the whole thing if it needs it, especially the fan clutch if it is original style. Some suggest a triple core high efficiency Rad. I had mine redone using the original tanks. Cost $285.
 

waynesie

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Are you using a timing light to set the distributor position?
Since it is running you are close, but the timing light will help you get it right.
Incorrect timing could cause more problems as well as running rough.

The car looks nice, good score.
 

deQuincey

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Are you using a timing light to set the distributor position?
Since it is running you are close, but the timing light will help you get it right.
Incorrect timing could cause more problems as well as running rough.

The car looks nice, good score.

+1, including overheat
the fan clutch is very important, i went to visit a friend in warm barcelona this week, he had always the temp gauge a little bit up when stopped under heavy traffic, and normal gauge position while friving, and that waw the fan clutch, installed new one yesterday and problem ended

nice car that of yours

regards
 

Stevehose

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Since you live in Vega$ as a short term fix you can remove 2 of the fan clutch bolts (opposite sides) and replace with longer ones to lock the fan clutch - I run this setup all year here and it takes the worry out of it since it's going to be pretty much full on anyway in your climate.



+1, including overheat
the fan clutch is very important, i went to visit a friend in warm barcelona this week, he had always the temp gauge a little bit up when stopped under heavy traffic, and normal gauge position while friving, and that waw the fan clutch, installed new one yesterday and problem ended

nice car that of yours

regards
 

61porsche

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Is

the electric auxillary fan on when the a/c is on? It would be normal for the temp guage to go up from say 4- to three o'clock in very hot climates under full load with a/c on. I would recommend a full flush and a new t-stat for your own piece of mind.

4000 rpm? 9'oclock? Something's still not right. When it fired, did you retime? There are two "balls" make sure you timed to the early one -BTDC. Not tdc. You can mark it somehow or clean it. You can tell if at normal idle, both balls should be visible with a timing light.

First confirm the distributer vacuum advance is working. Then confirm the manual advance is working. ( Pull the vacuum line and apply vacuum. Take the distributer cap off and twist the rotor. Add a drop or two of oil inside the shaft.)

Now there are several ways to confirm TDC. The damper has two marks and the timing cover has a pointer. The cam gear has one bolt that when lined up with the parting boss ( mark) on the first cam bearing. The third is the TDC ball on the flywheel. After 40 years all sorts of unnatural things can happen such as chain streach, cam off a tooth, etc. It is absolutely worthwile to check and be absolutely certain everything is right. The symtom of not reving past 4000 is usually this. If too far the other way the symtom is too smooth and won't rev.

Now M30s can idle fairly smooth with a little work, but not completely like a modern car with a computer. If the engine is shaking, exhaust spitting, reving up and down even slightly; that's not normal. Describe the symtom better, but first confirm the timing/ electrical.
 

DaSurfa

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Thanks for all the advice guys.
I found the switch that the PO installed for the electric auxiliary fan and now I have it on with the switch and it keeps the temps at around 3 o'clock position. Before it would sometimes sit at the 2 o'clock position in stop and go traffic.

As for the timing, I set it at the early ball marked with the Z. I checked the vacuum and it moves when I put some vacuum to the line. Rotor is fine and I put about 2 drops of oil when I installed the pertronix. Cars just has a very slight shake but starts right up fine. Maybe I'm just used to a modern vehicle with very smooth idles. It revs pass 4000 but just slowly. The idle is very steady and does not rev up and down. I'm gonna have my good friend who works on aircooled engines take a look at my engine and have him help me rebuild and sync the carbs. My friend thinks it might be the carbs due to sitting so long. Just my luck my friend said he knows these old engines very well and used to work on old BMW's.

Checking with BMW, I found out that the engine vin-2263920 in my car is from an Italian delivered 3.0CSI built on December 11, 1972. There is a sticker on my rear window from the very old CS Register, and was wondering if anymore knows more info on my vehicle from the old CS Register.
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I was looking through the local craigslist and found a nice set of basket-weave wheels from an E34 525i for only $250. Went to see them and they were in great shape, and in the end went home with them for $220. They are 15" wheels and its looks like it made my car sit higher for some reason. Now I gotta search through the old threads and see how I can lower my car just a tad bit, especially in the front.
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Stevehose

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I checked both VIN's for a reference in the old register and nothing came up unfortunately
 
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