Tempermental ignition

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Peter K
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Has anyone experienced tempermental starting with their manual e9? (mine is a 12/74)
I’ve noticed that when I go to start my car in the morning it starts first time but if I quickly turn off the motor and then go to turn it back on, the dash lights turn on (as they should) but there is no power to the ignition.

If I keep trying it may crank after 30 seconds.

Has anyone had this problem and know what I should be looking for?
 
Do you have original ignition components or mods, what kind of fuel pump, and are you running carbs or injection?
 
When you turn the key, the lights come on but the starter does nothing? Check the key/steering lock barrel: if the crimps holding the switch mechanism on the barrel are letting go the switch will rotate when you turn the key, thus no starter contact. Or the switch itself is bad (many small spring-loaded parts in there.) Good luck.
 
https://www.e9coupe.com/forum/threads/ignition-switch.17828/
https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/ignition-switch-issues.9407/
https://www.e9coupe.com/forum/threads/ignition-switch.22495/

switch.jpg


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Thanks guys.
Steve, it has twin zeniths and original ignition components.
I’ve also noticed when I’m trying to turn the key (and I have no ignition), I hear a buzzing from a relay in the glovebox (it sounds like a bad connection or a lack of power getting to the relay). Most times when I try to crank, I hear nothing.
It seems there is a bad connection somewhere. One of the clues to what it is, is the fact that it cranks and starts first time after it sits for a period of time (a couple of minutes) , it is the immediate attempts after the initial crank that are tempermental .

Besides the key steering lock barrel connections or the switch, is there connection under the bonnet I should check for a bad connection?
 
Having similar issues with my 72 CS.
Have a new ignition switch to go in as when we pulled the old one the contacts were very worn which is the cause of the problem.
 
Ive taken your advice and purchased a new ignition barrel lock switch.
I played around with the key in the barrel today and it works if I push towards the steering column and then turn the key while pushing . This tells me you guys are all correct. Thanks for all your advice!! Let’s hope it doesn’t let me down while I wait for the new ignition switch..
 
You may have an unintended anti theft measure, even from yourself.

Once you have the replacement unit, carefully remove the grub screw. (If you drop it and cannot locate it again, do not blame its loss on the dingo. ) Examine the removed unit and it is possible, if not probable, that the two halves have become loose. If this is the case, it might be worth your effort to squeeze some extra life from the current switch. You can try carefully prying it apart, cleaning and regreasing (w/ dielectric grease), followed by reassembly - with extra snug staking. If you think like DQ, the old switch is probably good for another 50 years. :D

An alternative might be to merely restake the two halves, so that they are a tighter fit. Crossed fingers, with limited optimism, this may be enough to keep you going for an indeterminate time. A third alternative is to leave everything intact and install a push button starter by splicing wires to the starter switch wires. This, of course, brings us back to anti theft measures, but it also can be an impediment to anyone attempting to drive your car, even with permission.

Considering the age of most E9/E3 ignition switches, the failure rate is probably fairly low. Nevertheless, few of us look forward to replacing one. Anyone have any information about the plastic versions found in, for example, an E23 (61321372416), and whether they wear any better than their metal predecessors? (Yes, it is obvious that the plastic version is not a simple plug and play replacement for the metal ignition switch. Just wondering whether the plastic somehow increases durability or is it a reflection of reduced manufacturing costs.)

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