throttle linkage springs

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jamesr

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I've just been to get my car MOT'd and the throttle is getting stuck open as all the springs are shot and the mechanism is quite stiff.

Are they just generic springs (through the whole linkage, from pedal to engine) or are they specific to the car?
 
72

CSLs could be either Fi or Carbs. Regardless, a stiff linkage from my experience starts with the pivot on the left side of the engine block. That pivot has a bushing behind the plate that rarely gets serviced. You can spray lubricant behind that plate or take it off and clean it. I've also seen that ball pin get a bit loose resulting in restaking or spot brazing /welding to fix it.

That plate also has a return spring that is pretty generic but some have two holes so the spring's position can be altered. It's a pretty stiff spring or what we call here in the states as a carb return spring and there are versions of two springs internal to one another just for this purpose.

But, a good cleaning of all the joints, high temp grease, making sure there's no large amount of play or wear will greatly increase the engine's responsiveness.

If you're car is a carbed version there are return springs on the shafts that are still available. Again my experience says that it's usually something binding or needs lubricated first.
 
I would not rely on stiff springs to overcome stiff linkage. As others have written, disassemble, find the part(s) that are binding, and fix it.

Like the steering and brakes, properly working throttle linkage is essential for safety.
 
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Thanks for the advice. It's actually an FI version and am i right in thinking that the RHD is a bit more complicated than an LHD? Or at least there are more parts to it?

Anyway, i'm planning on taking it all apart to give it a good clean and lube as well, but definitely need to replace the springs, as the one's at the engine (the two on top and the one on the pivot) have completely lost their elasticity, due to their age.

So are they just a generic spring that i should be able to find at any car parts shop?
 
Yes

just a generic spring for a carburator. I suggest the dual spring for the lower pivot for added safety. In the US, a speed shop, Holley carburators, etc.
 
Another thing you need to look at is the pivot arm near the oil filter. There may be 2 separate ball socket locations(one for FI and one for carburators) on the arm and the distance from the center point determines the moment or amount of force required to rotate the arm. When I installed dual 38 webers in which all four barrels open simultaneously. My pedal was very stiff upon first feeding some gas at moving away from a stop. This would create a whiplash in trying to feed the gas and release the clutch. I took the linkage all apart cleaned it up and actually welded a tab to place the ball even further away from the center thus providing greater moment and it now acclerates very smoothly
 
I have had zero luck finding replacement carb linkage. Ive tried Ireland, Pelican, Jam and Pierce. They either sell generic kits or only sell the kit with the carbs...
 
So having finally got off my ass and done a bit of research into this, what i actually need are the throttle and choke return springs.
 
Hi echappe
Would you have a photo of your mod to the linkage?I have the same issue with mine now that I have a clutch.
Thanks Tim
 
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