Torque Specs for Diff

Paulaner

Paulaner

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Hey - I am in the process of replacing all the seals on my diff and want to get a gut check on the torque specs for pinion flange and the drive flange hex bolts.

The blue book says the torque spec for the pinion flange nut is 108 ft/lbs? Seems way to tight... because at that torque you can't rotate the flanges. Shouldnt it rotate "freely" with moderate force?

I got ahead of myself and completely forgot to mark the pinion nut before removing and now feel like I'm shooting in the dark for reassembly.

Pic of blue books specs on 3rd pic.

Thanks for the help!
 

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Sorry, I don't have an answer, but I'm needing to strip mine down sometime this year and wondered about replacing the bearings, while it's open? Did you do this too? I'm trying to get a list of all the part numbers..once I do, I'll post it up for future reference.. I'll be staying tuned to this thread!
 
@StephenZ Here are the parts I ordered for refreshing the entire rear end. Part numbers, vendors, prices, etc. Green means I ordered and received. Red means I didn't end up ordering it.

Get your self a whole case a brake clean and engine degreaser. My diff and diff carrier were covered on a 1/4 inch layer of goo.

Bearings looked tip top so I didn't replace. They get a healthy bath of diff oil in there. All the diff seals were easy enough to press in flush.

If anyone out there has the torque specs, please share. I have the blue book but it's tough to discern for some reason.
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Spread sheet is missing the rear subframe bushings and trailing arm bushings. I ordered these a while back and left off from here. But HYG.
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Sway Bar End link bushings - need 8 units / 31351125712 / 31351125712 / $1.76 each / CRP-AVB0203R
 
Awesome! Thank you for that info!
Yeah, my car is in a million pieces so I’ve cleaned the diff already, and yeah, it was spectacularly dirty…lol. Nice to know about the bearings. Maybe mine will be in great shape, too. Not that many miles originally on my car..
 
The blue book instructions say to replace the tensioning bush if you cant achieve the correct frictional value at 108 ftlb which is the minimum torque value required
 
Thanks for the inputs Ian. Is there a way to not have to replace the sleeve in my situation? I'd prefer to save the $80 and not redo all the work already done for the seals.
 
Maybe check that the dust cover on the input flange is not binding on the housing, remove the crownwheel and drive flanges, and see if its still hard to turn when torqued. Should only take somewhere around 1-2 ftlb to turn it. An old school transmission guy told me recently that he doesn't like crush bushes because they keep crushing. If that really is a thing I guess it may have to be replaced
 
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