Rek
Well-Known Member
Nope.
tranny tunnel thermal insulation
- Thread starter rsporsche
- Start date
Well the buck was bloody easy.
I still have the part, unmounted, so reverse engineering a new buck out of it is even easier now.
Shipping would be a b*tch though, it's a big part.
I bought a used part. Plenty of those being slaughtered.
The e60/e61material is a wavy 2 layer aluminium. Must be available as sheet material somewhere.
good idea on used part, much cheaper. and, oh yeah ... shipping. i think the e28 part is also the 2 layer wavy aluminum material. i will have to pull that out and see if i can make it work - when i start going under the car. might be cheaper to sell a template on how to make it, and how to mount it. sell the brainwork rather than the actual work.
I grabbed some of that heat shield material from a guy who was parting out Boxsters. It was inexpensive and I figured I could mold it to the needed shape easily enough. A buck to hammer against is a great idea.
Eric's solution is much more elegant than mine, but mine was simple and cheap. I obtained a Z3 heat shield from a junkyard. These are not exactly the correct shape, but the material is very easy to reshape as Ian notes.
Don't forget to put in a heater diverter valve. That makes a huge difference on the cabin temperature when coupled with the heat shielding.
but it was a really good reminder for me, since my engine is already in but the heater is NOT.
I put off installation for a long time, and missed the perfect opportunity when putting my engine back in. I finally did it before my 1,800 mile drive on the BMWCCCA anniversary outing. What a difference, I wish I had done it sooner.
I have the electric valve from Old Air Products, I needed to cut up a few hoses to get it to fit (I wish I could provide part #'s, but it was a bit of a mess). The ability to open and close the valve while driving is really nice. Cold morning, heat on, getting too warm, dial it off.
I have the electric valve from Old Air Products, I needed to cut up a few hoses to get it to fit (I wish I could provide part #'s, but it was a bit of a mess). The ability to open and close the valve while driving is really nice. Cold morning, heat on, getting too warm, dial it off.
Yes I saw the write up on the Old air products one and pulled the trigger on that. I have an injected car and looks like there’s room for it.
ElGrecko
Well-Known Member
For insulation to work in this kind of situation you need to be removing heat from the inside of the car. That is, insulation slows heat transfer, it doesn't eliminate it. How much heat is removed from the inside determines how hot the inside gets. If you have very good insulation AND remove some heat through convection on the inside it reduces the inside temperature. That's why Eric's heat shield works really well. It stops the radiation from the exhaust as well as the convection and there is going to be some air flowing on the tops side of his shield so it won't get that hot and it solves the problem very effectively. If you're going to do insulation, then inside the tunnel is more effective as it lets the heat be transferred down to areas of the floor that are in the airstream and it will stay a lot cooler as the heat gets conducted away from the hot areas. Putting insulation on the inside isn't as effective but anything helps. Now if you could make that heat shield into a stiffer tunnel plate it could also increase chassis stiffness.
so Lance, which direction did you mount it? that is we know the pipes into the car are fixed, but my guess is that you had to turn it upside down (in relation to this drawing) in order to get it to fit.