Turning the engine in an automatic car

Eric V

Eric V

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What’s the best way to turn the engine for valve adjustment purposes in an automatic transmission car? Looks like I need to pull the radiator to get a socket on the crank pulley nut.
 
Should be able to get a breaker bar and socket on it from underneath as I recall. On a 2002 or NK you can turn the flywheel with a large screwdriver but the heater hoses are in the way on an e9. Or with plugs out and a tight fan belt, turn the fan by hand clockwise.
 
I do plugs out and work glove on hand, grab the alternator belt pulley and rotate the engine inch by inch
 
on my old e12, i took the plugs out and used a starter button switch hooked to the starter - just a little click and it would spin the engine
 
You can do it like Stevehose says that's how I use to do it when I was younger and had way more energy, now I do it like rsporsche does it with a starter button cause it is way easier and I am not as strong as I use to be ( and somewhat lazier ) You can also plug into the diagnostic connector but can'rt remember at the moment which terminal to use

Thanks, Rick
 
Thanks for all replies, alternator nut and lean on the fan belt worked well for me. Beautiful innards and easy adjustment design, only surprise was the crooked wire tool in the toolkit was too fat a diameter to fit into the hole in the adjuster cam. Used a small Allen wrench, worked fine, one intake valve slightly tight and three exhausts slightly loose.
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Eric,
Be sure and check the bolts holding the oil spray bar. Those coming loose have been the demise of many M30 cylinder heads.

Does anyone reading this thread use the adjustment procedure at the cam instead of at the valve?
Don? Steve I think you do?
 
BTW the orange diagnostic connector is where you can connect a simple momentary button switch to turn the motor over. IIRC it's pins 1 & 9. 1 is ground and 9 should have 12 volts. If not 9 it's 7. Sorry this old brain is slow sometimes.
 
I've done both, if you want .010 at the valve you divide by something like 1.26 and you measure at the cam for .008

The bump method can be frustrating because you dont easily get it to stop right where you want it to for the adjustment, turning by hand is easy with plugs out

m5bb said:
Eric,
Be sure and check the bolts holding the oil spray bar. Those coming loose have been the demise of many M30 cylinder heads.

Does anyone reading this thread use the adjustment procedure at the cam instead of at the valve?
Don? Steve I think you do?
Click to expand...
 
Don, since the rocker pads are at least somewhat worn on most of our engines, would you suggest a) use a bit of wire b) use a feeler gage at the cam, or c) something else?

Stevehose, where did you discover/can you confirm the rocker ratio is 1.26?
 
I have used the adjust at cam on my E28 M30 motors and my E9 M30 motors for years. It's easy, you get a better feel and it eliminates valve stems that may have unusual wear on engines with high mileage.
Using the ratio Steve provided you will not be able to get a feeler gauge to that exact spec. So if your setting should be .012" at valve stem then use .010" at cam.
You can buy feeler gauges that are stepped. The gauge may be .008 and then .010. Using this gauge you can feel the setting better. Just a thought.
I think Don is just being funny unless he knows some other secret magic way or he wants to remain neutral on the subject.
 
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