U-joints

[BonitaCS]

I'm about to reinstall the drive shaft back and wondering if I should replace the U-joints. The forward U-joint feels fine but the aft one feels a bit stiff. I didn't notice any problems before tearing the car down; With the drive shaft out, how can you tell if the U-joints need to be replaced? There is a good drive line shop in Oceanside that Carl uses for rebuilding all of his drive shafts but they want $350.00 to replace both U-joints, center bearing, paint and balance. As always any (most) suggestions are appriciated!

Scott

 

[bengal taiga]

I'm about to reinstall the drive shaft back and wondering if I should replace the U-joints. The forward U-joint feels fine but the aft one feels a bit stiff. I didn't notice any problems before tearing the car down; With the drive shaft out, how can you tell if the U-joints need to be replaced? There is a good drive line shop in Oceanside that Carl uses for rebuilding all of his drive shafts but they want $350.00 to replace both U-joints, center bearing, paint and balance. As always any (most) suggestions are appriciated! Scott

Suggestions? Stiff joints usually indicate hardened or displaced grease. Worn joints are usually sloppy. So - before you do anything too expensive, rap the stiff u-joint with a rubber mallet to redistribute the grease around those needle/roller bearings.

It is now a good idea to mark both pieces of the drive shaft. Disassemble, clean and regrease any portions that slide. It is likewise an excellent time to replace (if necessary) the center support bearing and address any loose or exposed balance weights.

hth

 

[Honolulu]

thanksalot BMW

U-joints are not individually replaceable, except using welding and cutting techniques. TThey can be brought back, though, sometimes... read on.

I had a bad steering shaft ujoint (twice, I should drive more frequently) and I took it out, put it in a can of ATF (nice low viscosity oil) and turned on the hot air gun. Got 'er up to who-knows-how-hot, enough that the oil was, well, DAMN hot, and had soaked in just fine. That little joint never again (knock wood) gave me trouble. It doesn't dare - I'll boil 'er in oil AGAIN!

 

[steve in reno]

$350 is out of line.
I paid $150 last year and it included a new center carrier bearing, shortening, and new u joints.
Rebuilt and balanced.
work was great and quick turn around.
steve

 

[BonitaCS]

Thanks!
You mean I should have marked the two halves before I pulled them apatr I thought $350.00 was high too; I think I paid $25.00 to get it shortened and balanced about 5 years ago when I did the 5 speed conversion. Steve, where did you have it done? Might be cheaper to ship it round trip to Reno.

Scott