stphers
Well-Known Member
Ok thanks, I will have a look, not local on the west coast
Thanks, Rick
Thanks, Rick
Vapor Blasting aluminum vs Dry Ice Blasting
- Thread starter Nicad
- Start date
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Here's some better shots of Alodine finished parts. I bead blasted them first (Have since read about problems with bead blasting valve covers). I washed the heck out of these, so hopefully no lingering glass waiting to destroy my motor on startup.
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stphers
Well-Known Member
I would grind the rivet heads off the protection plate on the inside of the valve cover by the breather nipple. I have cleaned lots of them and flushed the hell out of that area and you would not believe what you still find in there. I drill small holes and tap them out to put a small screw with a large flat washer, loctited in
Looks good
Thanks, Rick
Looks good
Thanks, Rick
Looks nicely original. Seems to be the right option after cleaning.
This is the perfect look for me...on the list
zinnocoupe
Member
This looks like a great product Nicad. Does it require recoating after time? Nice to something thats available in Canada for a change. Thx for posting
stphers
Well-Known Member
I have to tell you something about Cerakote and how good it stands up. I have an air cleaner and 2 weber adapters for sale here ( sale pending ) Had to a repair on one of the weber adapters after it was media blasted and painted with bright silver Cerakote and had to aluminum weld a crack Took a map torch and some special low temp aluminum rod repair, repair came out great and it was almost impossible to see where the torch had been heating the piece so I could do the aluminum welding The Cerakote was pretty much untouched, I just did a little touch up with a small brush Very impressed with this stuff
Thanks, Rick
Thanks, Rick
zinnocoupe
Member
Rick, I'm sure Cerakote must be tough as hell and very heat resistant, I see online people coating the tops of pistons with it.
I just took a look on Aircraftspruces website. It looks like a great product but it does say in the Q&A at the bottom of the page for the m-cr 1001 that its not for long term protection and will wash off with water.
Q: Can Alodine 1001/1201 be used without a top coat and provide long term corrosion protection? Example would be to treat the wing ribs and other aluminum small parts.
This is not recommended for long term protection as the rain or any water/liquid sprayed onto this will wash it off.
www.aircraftspruce.ca
I just took a look on Aircraftspruces website. It looks like a great product but it does say in the Q&A at the bottom of the page for the m-cr 1001 that its not for long term protection and will wash off with water.
Q: Can Alodine 1001/1201 be used without a top coat and provide long term corrosion protection? Example would be to treat the wing ribs and other aluminum small parts.
This is not recommended for long term protection as the rain or any water/liquid sprayed onto this will wash it off.
Bonderite M-Cr 1001 Aero (Formerly Alodine 1001) | Aircraft Spruce Canada
Bonderite M-Cr 1001 Aero (Formerly Alodine 1001) An invisible coat to provide in-depth corrosion proofing to the brightened aluminum surface and act as a firm barrier against the elements and continued corrosion.
I'm not sure if it lasts in the elements. Generally on the aircraft parts we treated we would zinc chromate primer them after the alodine process. Looks like you uncovered the answer though. My car projects have been on hold a while and that Alodine has sat that way on the valve cover for many years. but never been put on the road or run through a Canadian winter (Which it won't! unless there is a EMP attack!).
The Cerakote website has a lot on it. The product you used on treated aluminum parts, was it an air cured spray? I would like to try their trim product on my headlight grilles. So far I have experimented a bit on mine with Meguiars plastic polish and some Griot's garage ceramic spray and on a test spot and it appears to work very well. I do know that the Cerakote black plastic trim coating is very highly rated.
The product that I used on aluminum is air cured spray. Fairly simple, it is pre-mixed so no thinning or hardener to add prior to shooting.
stphers
Well-Known Member
Most of the cerakote that I have used is just spray it but it does take a gun with a special size tip. I have used their 2 part product as well Did not come out so well, but I think that I did not mix it properly and did not bake it long enough Going to try it again soon I also have their specialized product , one that you spray on top of the piston to reduce combustion temps and one that goes on the skirts to give it a very slippery surface Getting ready soon to try both of those out, both just sprayed and air cured
I have not tried their plastic trim coating, sounds interesting
Thanks, Rick
I have not tried their plastic trim coating, sounds interesting
Thanks, Rick
I've read vapor blasting also has the added benefit of actually peening the surface, closing the pores on cast aluminum bits, making it easier to keep clean in the future.
Boyd Blasting - About
All about the wetblasting process at Boyd Blasting in Seattle Area
www.boydblasting.com
Engine parts were probably protected for storage and assembly.
BMW was protecting cars (including engine compartment) with hot wax. As least in 80's, so they were aware engine parts are not 100% protected against environment, temperature etc...
Indeed, same is true for tumbling them with stainless steel pellets: It closes pores and smoothens the surface.I've read vapor blasting also has the added benefit of actually peening the surface, closing the pores on cast aluminum bits, making it easier to keep clean in the future.
Boyd Blasting - About
All about the wetblasting process at Boyd Blasting in Seattle Areawww.boydblasting.com
Nice shine, clean surface and easier to whipe clean also.
