Voids inside and behind front wheel arch

[oldcoupe]

Getting ready to install these protective plates at the back of the front wheelarch -

I took a closer look - what to do about the void with the large opening behind the strut?

I'm thinking about spraying aerosol grease to coat and protect the interior, then fill it with closed-cell spray foam.

Similarly, the gap inside the outer skin is just waiting for water and mud, so again I thought grease and closed cell foam.
(the small piece of galvanised plate held with the hex head screw is a) to temporarily close the fixing hole for the protective plate, and b) check out the screw fixing before I install the protective plate)

If the car was kept in an area with surfaced roads I wouldn't worry so much, but we have three miles of dirt roads before tarmac.

Any helpful comments welcome.

Thanks

 

[bavbob]

Make sure you use the gasket that is suppose to go with the protective plate. I used a profile bought from Steele products as I think it may be NLA.
Others will chime in about the Lokari set up which is the ultimate in protection. You can search for it here, many posts.

 

[oldcoupe]

Thanks for that - yes I've got some gasket. I guess the Lokari is an option in the future.

 

[eriknetherlands]

Please no closed cell spray foam!

Most of those are polyurethanes and start to crumble in ~5 years if exposed to water. These foams indeed start as closed cells, but in 3 years time, most of the cells have become open cells if exposed to water. And then it just get worse fast.

I'd blow out the triangle opening with compressed air to get the debris out.
Then inject your favorite wax.
Then Lokari's (google them) are the best option. Leaving pandora's box open is asking for rust; it's the most expensive corner to rust, as it starts deep down inside the construction.

It ain't easier, but trying to sell a car with spray foam is even worse.
If you're really in a pinch, then I'd seal the triangle hole with a plastic sheet and stick it there with caulck. Better watertightness, and easily reversible.

The gasket to the inside of the fender is great advice from @bavbob ; it'll will prevent most debris and some of the water, but not all.

 

[oldcoupe]

Thanks for that warning and advice, which I will follow.

Oldcoupe

 

[Drew Gregg]

I have the OEM gaskets for your metal plates. If interested, I can send you pics and the part #'s. My car had some undercoating sprayed all around the area ,so I used SEM caulk to completely seal the entire plate. Here are pics of my front wells. The holes in the plates match up with the threaded holes in the wells. A machine screw secures them. I had to bend the pointed bottom of each plate to get a tight fit.

 

[Stevehose]

I coated mine with cavity wax years ago, then bi-annual cleanings with compressed air to remove the debris (also along the fender seams). I prefer air to be circulating back there and not condensing. I also leave off the 2 small top seals (in the engine compartment under the forward heaterbox/ hood seal) to allow air in from there, I install the seals if I'm going on a road trip where I might encounter rain, but otherwise I keep the air moving.

 

[Rek]

I have fitted Lokari liners but have put open cell foam to ensure that any moisure drains. This isn't spray on as that takes an age to remove, but large sections of solid foam which I can remove as needed. Closed cell with block the cavity but any moisture in there, from say condensation, will not be able to drain. Am I making a mistake?

 

[alprada70]

I reproduce the protectives plates in aluminum.