Webers 32/36 rebuild or replace?

[brea]

Does anyone have any experience with older (25+ years old) 32/36 Webers with the JAMS conversion?

I am currently having issue with the back carb flooding out the back three pistons.

I have not removed the carbs yet and I am considering either just rebuilding them with kits at $40 each or purchasing new 32/36's carbs that cost less than $300 each.

I know there is a possible downside of doing a rebuild and the chance there could be other unknown issues coming up during the rebuild and the extra time involved.

I thought I would ping the group on your thoughts about rebuilding them verses replacing them or to do something different?

Any input is appreciated.

 

[shanon]

Hi B,

A good check to see if the old carbs are rebuild-able is to check for play/slop on the butterfly shafts. If there is play, toss them (or use as paperweights or research cadavers) and get some new ones. If solid, try a rebuild kit and proceed one at a time.

These are not complicated to rebuild and worth acquiring the experience. You will then understand needed steps if you need to fine tune, re-jet, or 'manipulate'.

hth
-shanon

 

[Stevehose]

What do you mean by flooding? Like fuel gushing or running rich?

 

[brea]

What do you mean by flooding? Like fuel gushing or running rich?

The back three spark plugs are get very fuel wet at the start and after running a short time those same spark plugs turn quickly black looking. The exhaust shows no smoke but smells very rich.

 

[Stevehose]

Turn your mixture screw (not the throttle butterfly screw) on the back carb in until it just gently stops, counting the number of turns. This is your baseline and let us know what that is. Then back out to original setting. Should be around 2 turns +- 1/4 to 1/2.

Hook up a tach and open the mixture screw up until the engine bogs or drops rpm. If it doesn't then screw it in until it drops rpm, then back it out about 1/4 turn until highest idle is achieved. Let us know what that setting is.

Drive and recheck plugs.

If you're really rich then your float may be not shutting correctly but try this first.

The back three spark plugs are get very fuel wet at the start and after running a short time those same spark plugs turn quickly black looking. The exhaust shows no smoke but smells very rich.

 

[brea]

Hi B,

A good check to see if the old carbs are rebuild-able is to check for play/slop on the butterfly shafts. If there is play, toss them (or use as paperweights or research cadavers) and get some new ones. If solid, try a rebuild kit and proceed one at a time.

These are not complicated to rebuild and worth acquiring the experience. You will then understand needed steps if you need to fine tune, re-jet, or 'manipulate'.

hth
-shanon

Hi S, I will check these for slop.

I still wish I had my GoPro going the day we were dueling and coming up to that stop sign :shock: on the Melee.

Thank you!

 

[brea]

Turn your mixture screw (not the throttle butterfly screw) on the back carb in until it just gently stops, counting the number of turns. This is your baseline and let us know what that is. Then back out to original setting. Should be around 2 turns +- 1/4 to 1/2.

Hook up a tach and open the mixture screw up until the engine bogs or drops rpm. If it doesn't then screw it in until it drops rpm, then back it out about 1/4 turn until highest idle is achieved. Let us know what that setting is.

Drive and recheck plugs.

If you're really rich then your float may be not shutting correctly but try this first.

Thanks Steve, I will do this and report back.