Weight of CS body shell??

jjs2800cs

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Any one know the approximate weight of a cs body shell with

- engine tranny removed
- all suspension removed
- interior/dash removed
- etc

Basically an empty shell

Am trying to size castors for a rolling dolly.
There are 10" pneumatic castors that rated at 300LBS, so 1200lbs total.

I would guess the shell is probably pretty close to that but???

Thanks

jjs2800cs
 

Markos

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I think the shell is closer to 800lbs. Personally I wouldn’t use pneumatic castors.
 

jjs2800cs

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800 lbs, i'm surprised its that light. So if one starts with a really rusted shell, it would be much less, LOL. Anyhow ours car is not that bad, having lived in CA and FL.

We think the pneumatic tires are going to be the best for us, as the shell will need to be rolled off a 4 post lift, out of the garage and across a paver driveway when it come time to send it off for paint. So with 4 of the 300 lb castors we should be good.

Thanks very much.

jjs2800cs
 

Alice Couper

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With the help of a couple other guys and a furniture dolly, I heaved one into the back of a U-haul truck. Not the recommended technique. 1603993279448.png


1603993279448.png
 

autokunst

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Even if the chassis is that light (800 lbs, 1,200 lbs, etc), I wouldn't cut the ratings so close. First, who knows if those ratings are that accurate? What is the duty cycle - will they roll freely and easily for a week, month, year at full capacity? How much of the load transfers to only one or two of the castors while you are rolling over bumps, obstacles? I used steel wheels with solid polyurethane "tires". I think the capacity is 600 lbs or 900 lbs each wheel.
20200821-on dolly rear.jpg
 

jjs2800cs

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Even if the chassis is that light (800 lbs, 1,200 lbs, etc), I wouldn't cut the ratings so close. First, who knows if those ratings are that accurate? What is the duty cycle - will they roll freely and easily for a week, month, year at full capacity? How much of the load transfers to only one or two of the castors while you are rolling over bumps, obstacles? I used steel wheels with solid polyurethane "tires". I think the capacity is 600 lbs or 900 lbs each wheel.
View attachment 104711
Point well taken, like the dolly you used.
I see how attached at rear, what about the front.
Thanks
jjs2800cs
 

burky

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From a view of being able to move the body around 4 rotating castors are good , but once you actually start working on the body they are a pain the body is constantly moving , I have found that two non rotating castors at one end and two rotating at the other makes it far more manageable, rotating locking castors are also a wonderful thing.
 

autokunst

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From a view of being able to move the body around 4 rotating castors are good , but once you actually start working on the body they are a pain the body is constantly moving , I have found that two non rotating castors at one end and two rotating at the other makes it far more manageable, rotating locking castors are also a wonderful thing.
I actually don't anticipate ever working on the car while its sitting/rolling on the castor wheels. The dolly keeps my chassis points precise - but it will either be on the lift as you see below, or on calibrated "jack stands" for lack of a better description. This will allow me to level the chassis/dolly/geometry and measure precisely. And when I do need to move it around on the castors, I can get the car anywhere on these four spinners. ;)
20201028-car on dolly on lift.jpg
 

Markos

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Even if the chassis is that light (800 lbs, 1,200 lbs, etc), I wouldn't cut the ratings so close. First, who knows if those ratings are that accurate? What is the duty cycle - will they roll freely and easily for a week, month, year at full capacity? How much of the load transfers to only one or two of the castors while you are rolling over bumps, obstacles? I used steel wheels with solid polyurethane "tires". I think the capacity is 600 lbs or 900 lbs each wheel.

These are the type of castors that I had in mind when I said I wouldn't use pneumatic wheels.
 

Gransin

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I used pneumatic castors and had no problems during the 3-4 years the shell sat on the dolly :)
The reason I used pneumatic castors was that they allow for an imperfect and somewhat dirty floor. The dolly won't come to a sudden halt if you hit a small rock etc.
And it was easy to move around outside of the garage.
Not sure what the castors were rated for, all I know is that they were in the cheapo range.

Screen Shot 2017-09-02 at 21.40.52.png


Screen Shot 2017-09-02 at 21.44.43.png
 
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autokunst

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The reason I used pneumatic castors was that they allow for an imperfect and somewhat dirty floor. The dolly won't come to a sudden halt if you hit a small rock etc.
And it was easy to move around outside of the garage.
My floor is always spotless - ha ha. But my wheels would never survive outside of your garage. I can see why you went with the "tires". Looks great.
 

jjs2800cs

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Thanks for all the comments and suggestions so far.

As we posted earlier we want to be able to get the shell off/on the 4-post lift ramps while attached to the dolly. We like what Autokunst has done and may go that route. But in our case the 4 wheels have to be spaced width wise, so that they are in the center of the two lift ramps. We love out 4-post lift, but in some situations a two post lift is the way to go.

As for the wheels, having all 4 rotate has its advantages and disadvantages as has been pointed out. I believe in our case we may have to go with 2 fixed, as to get if off/on the lift. That process should be a challenge. Anyone done that?????? We did it years ago restoring an Austin Healey 3000. Certainly it was much smaller and lighter, dolly was made of wood and yes it was fun guiding it off/on the ramps.

Pneumatic tires would sure be a plus as it will be rolled around on a brick/paver driveway.

Thanks
jjs2800cs
 

JFENG

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4 wheels have to be spaced width wise, so that they are in the center of the two lift ramps

Why not adjust the width of your lift ramps? I drilled an extra set of holes on my life so the one ramp on my 4-poster can be positioned narrow for cars like 1950’s sports racers, or normal modern vehicles (up to an F150). Placing the ramps in the narrower position reduces the capacity of the lift Because the ramp weight is moved away from the cross bar ends, but my really narrow cars weight between 1000-2900lbs which is 1/3 of the lift capacity (no added deflection measured) .
 
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