Which 260 gearbox for a 1974 e9

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Peter K
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My Australian delivered e9 was manufactured on October 11th, 1974 and I'd like to put a 260 getrag gearbox in it. I've read that in 1974 items changed and for me to install a 260 getrag I have to look at buying a 1985 260 getrag from an e28. Does anyone if this is correct? Or which year and gearbox I have to specifically source?
Also I have an option to buy a 260 getrag from a 1985 e30?
Currently the car has its original 3 speed auto.
Thanks
 
Need to get a 265 with a mechanical speedometer drive. Double check the ones you have available. Otherwise the speedometer needs to be modified for an electronic sensor.
 
Thanks Andrew. So basically what I need is a pre 1981 gearbox out of a BMW big 6 (528i, 633, 733) or a 1985 528i or 535i? (These have mechanical gear drives, and I think they are the 265 gearbox).
Is this correct, or is it more complicated?
Thank you
Peter
 
Thanks Andrew. So basically what I need is a pre 1981 gearbox out of a BMW big 6 (528i, 633, 733) or a 1985 528i or 535i? (These have mechanical gear drives, and I think they are the 265 gearbox).
Is this correct, or is it more complicated?
Thank you
Peter

I think pre-1983. It's that simple. Now there are a whole list of parts needed to make the install work. I do not have the list. I think Stevehose has a whole thread about installation.
 
I believe it is also possible to "graft-in" the mechanical speedo drive gear from a 4-speed transmission into a later model 265 that does not currently have it (and there are a few folks on the forum who have those 4-speed speedo drive gears to use for this purpose).
 
I believe it is also possible to "graft-in" the mechanical speedo drive gear from a 4-speed transmission into a later model 265 that does not currently have it (and there are a few folks on the forum who have those 4-speed speedo drive gears to use for this purpose).

I can verify this. I ended up having to the use speedo drive gear from my 4 speed in the 265, but the 265 already had all the external components for it, such as the case housing. It was plug-and-play.
 
a must read

Under Tech Info above read through Carl Nelson's 5 speed conversion instructions. I suggest reading it many times because it is packed with information. When I did my conversion from an automatic (same year as yours) that article was all I had and it worked for this numbskull. Also, whenever I had questions everyone on the forum chipped in and this is where I found most of the parts needed at very reasonable prices. Best of luck with your project, it makes a great difference. I also suggest having the gear box gone through and probably the main bearings -front and rear- replaced and have the box re-sealed unless you know the box is good; btw, a previous owners' "good" may not be the same as yours so unless you have driven it- have it gone through :-)
 
Under Tech Info above read through Carl Nelson's 5 speed conversion instructions. I suggest reading it many times because it is packed with information. When I did my conversion from an automatic (same year as yours) that article was all I had and it worked for this numbskull. Also, whenever I had questions everyone on the forum chipped in and this is where I found most of the parts needed at very reasonable prices. Best of luck with your project, it makes a great difference. I also suggest having the gear box gone through and probably the main bearings -front and rear- replaced and have the box re-sealed unless you know the box is good; btw, a previous owners' "good" may not be the same as yours so unless you have driven it- have it gone through :-)

Completely agree. I was a broke undergrad at the time, and now those chickens have come home to roost. Mine leaks from the front and rear seals slightly (couple drops on the floor) and 2nd is more than a little loose. Someday, I'll have to get to it.
 
At the very least replace all seals after you source a tranny: front (plus Hylomar on the cover), rear, shift rod selector, and speedo drive seals (2). Use thread sealant/loctite on cover bolts and flange nut, and hylomar on the output shaft/flange connection. I have no leaks as a result. Shifting into 5th on the highway is an out of body experience.

There are a few threads on 5 speed replacement, here were my questions and DIY's. Allow plenty of time, assemble all the parts new and used, get them all clean and painted, then go in with patience. Take special care to align the driveshaft with the guibo. Post your questions along the way.

http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20602

http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20603

http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20536

http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19822
 
The comment to "rebuild" A Getrag 265 is a little misleading as few shops have the tools or expertise to do so on other than "exterior" bits... perhaps mainly the press work that is required for internals such as bearings and synchros. It is explained to replace the seals (particularly including the shifter seal at back top). This is all I did on mine and it has worked just fine.

STRONGLY suggest that the seller provide some warranty of fitness and that the return policy is clearly understood by both parties. After all you're proposing to use a part from a vehicle not made new since the early/mid 1980s and who knows what the internal condition will be unless it's from a running car and you can assess it therein.

I got my 265 from a non-running '81 528i. It moaned a bit at first, but after some time the moaning stopped, and I changed the oil a time or two so as to minimize exposure to anything that might have gotten either stirred up, or ground off. That was many years ago.

It surely is a moment of trepidation when you first make the shift into the new gear...! Need to be doing >2500 rpm on a stock motor to make it worthwhile. The value of having a five-speed, other than the bling that only we cognoscenti recognize, is really dependent on how much you use the car at speeds over a mile a minute (for a stock motor).
 
The value of having a five-speed, other than the bling that only we cognoscenti recognize, is really dependent on how much you use the car at speeds over a mile a minute (for a stock motor).

Completely agree with this. I have two coupes: one four-speed, one five-speed, and have owned two other coupes with the five-speed conversion and one other with a factory four=speed. I have never had a five-speed transmission that wasn't noisy and somewhat notchy to shift. The four speeds, on the other hand, have been very quiet and shift like buttah. When I finally get the 3.5L installed in my current four-speed I think that I may keep the four-speed and see if it is livable. Unless you plan on doing a lot of highway driving, you may want to consider using a four-speed. The extra gear is really nice on the road, but I rarely need it around town which is where I do most of my driving.

Walter
 
The comment to "rebuild" A Getrag 265 is a little misleading as few shops have the tools or expertise to do so on other than "exterior" bits... perhaps mainly the press work that is required for internals such as bearings and synchros. It is explained to replace the seals (particularly including the shifter seal at back top). This is all I did on mine and it has worked just fine.

STRONGLY suggest that the seller provide some warranty of fitness and that the return policy is clearly understood by both parties. After all you're proposing to use a part from a vehicle not made new since the early/mid 1980s and who knows what the internal condition will be unless it's from a running car and you can assess it therein.

I got my 265 from a non-running '81 528i. It moaned a bit at first, but after some time the moaning stopped, and I changed the oil a time or two so as to minimize exposure to anything that might have gotten either stirred up, or ground off. That was many years ago.

It surely is a moment of trepidation when you first make the shift into the new gear...! Need to be doing >2500 rpm on a stock motor to make it worthwhile. The value of having a five-speed, other than the bling that only we cognoscenti recognize, is really dependent on how much you use the car at speeds over a mile a minute (for a stock motor).
Thanks to all for your feedback on my 265 getrag conversion question. I'm thinking twice about the conversion, it may be more suitable to convert it to a factory 4 speed as I don't think I will be driving my e9 on long trips and I haven't heard bad feedback on the 4 speed box (especially if not travelling at high speeds)... One of the local "boutique" BMW mechanic workshops who work on the older bmw's quoted me AUS$10,000 (US$7200) for a 265 conversion ! He said it was very labour intensive.. From my research I had allot smaller figure in mind.

Other BMW enthusiasts have told me that once you have all the parts the conversion is pretty straight forward. Does anyone know how long the conversion should take a mechanic?
 
One of the local "boutique" BMW mechanic workshops who work on the older bmw's quoted me AUS$10,000 (US$7200) for a 265 conversion ! He said it was very labour intensive.. From my research I had allot smaller figure in mind. Other BMW enthusiasts have told me that once you have all the parts the conversion is pretty straight forward. Does anyone know how long the conversion should take a mechanic?

I can't quote the number of hours, but at a reasonable $/hour rate, it certainly multiplies out to a less than AUS$10,000 (US$7200). Did you get a breakdown of how much of that was labor, and how much was the cost of the transmission itself?
 
Agree with J, "if" you have all the parts, you're way ahead of the game, so, if you were converting from a 4 speed to 5 speed the labor should be no more than putting in a new clutch, they just have to change out the slave cyl. and put up the new driveshaft that you supplied- no more difficult than putting back the old one-and probably cleaner. That being said, on the auto-to-4/5speed conversion the pedals and clutch master/feeder line and new brake reservoir/routing line, wire routing for the reverse light are the only variables. (lastly the shift surround).

Also, someone please correct me if I am wrong- I have a bad memory, but I think all you need for the pedal conversion is both pedals and the connecting bolt/sleeve as they fit in the same pedal box- no need to remove anything else?
 
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