I think your list is quite complete; Rear & front subframes, trailing arms, torsion bars. torsion bar brackets, I'm not sure if the coil springs can be done as well (anyone knows?)
I did the wedge (to block the car when replacing a wheel) from my toolk it as well.
Things that have threads on them need some attention; there is rubber tape that widthstands sandblasting and powdercoating (ask your local powdercoat shop) to wrap around areas that you want not coated. close of holes of area's where the powder coat should come ( bearing seats, seal surfaces etc) with wooden or aluminium caps.
You write "brake bits", but i would NOT do the do the brake calipers. they should be yellow zinc.
Powder coating adds some thickness, so be carefull with tight fits.
one note to powder coating; a downside of it is that *IF* the coating cracks, water enters between the coating and steel surface and grows rust faster then it would without coating, as it can't dry up after that incidental rain shower, your surface will continue to be wet for weeks instead of air drying in 1 or 2 days.
Solution to that is to pre treat the steel surface with an Aluminium-Zinc thermal spay coating (anyone knows the correct technical english term for that proces?). Such a process leaves a very tough, dull grey coating that is especially wear resistant. Ideal for stone chip prone area's. Apply the powder coat on top of that .
For parts with threads or other exposed surfaces, an electrochemically deposited yellow or bright zinc coating can be used under the powder coat.
Erik