Window “sticks” when being raised

[JLo]

I have power windows in my ‘73 3.0cs. My passenger window has begun to get stuck in a few of places when being raised, needing manual assistance to get past these “dead” spots to be fully raised. No issues when being lowered. Motor appears to be functioning fine. Any tips for properly diagnosing/curing this ailment? Any assistance is greatly appreciated. Thank you.

 

[Wladek]

It is probably of resistance on window rails, old grease there became more like glue.
The best way to do that is the full disassembly of window mechanism, full cleaning & re-greasing.
If without disassembly - you need to get with WD-40 to the rails anyway.

Main rail is that black part inside on the right side, it have rollers inside

Also take a look on that black spiral spring mounted directly on the pivot of power mechanism itself, it might be also dirty & sticky.

 

[JLo]

I have power windows in my ‘73 3.0cs. My passenger window has begun to get stuck in a few of places when being raised, needing manual assistance to get past these “dead” spots to be fully raised. No issues when being lowered. Motor appears to be functioning fine. Any tips for properly diagnosing/curing this ailment? Any assistance is greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Unfortunately, no good on the wd-40. Is the disassembly fairly straightforward?

 

[Thomas76]

Unfortunately, no good on the wd-40. Is the disassembly fairly straightforward?

There is a lot of adjustment in these windows, if you disassemble mark all bolt locations and take pictures so you don't have to readjust.

 

[jmackro]

Is the disassembly fairly straightforward?

Disassembly is a cinch. It's the re-assembly that will kill you.

There is a lot of adjustment in these windows

Thomas76 is explaining what I mean about the re-assembly. It isn't that it's so hard to get the hardware back in place; the problem is that the window alignment is adjustable in all directions, and if you don't get it right you will have excessive wind noise, interference with the rear window trim, etc. etc. To really clean the front channel, you need to take out the vent window assembly, and that too needs to be properly aligned with the windshield.

I'm not trying to scare you away from doing this job; just plan on spending an hour or so playing with how the vent and main windows are positioned fore-aft / in/out.

And if you really want to "go down the rabbit hole", you can:

- Add a direct power feed + relays in order to deliver more current to your motors
- Replace the existing "sardine can" motors with the more powerful motors from an e28

Lots of threads here about these operations.

 

[eriknetherlands]

Some info here on how it's all mounted.
As mentioned, I see little other option then disassemble, clean and regrease.
I think it requires the glass to go out, as otherwise the long black rail won't come out . I think the triangle (vent) window piece can remain in place when doing so.

I guess your tracks look like this on the inside:


Post in thread 'Fixing that little rust spot...' https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/fixing-that-little-rust-spot.18521/post-396672

 

[jmackro]

I think it requires the glass to go out, as otherwise the long black rail won't come out . I think the triangle (vent) window piece can remain in place when doing so.

True, the glass can come out without disturbing the vent window assembly (which includes the front window track), which will simplify the alignment upon re-assembly. However, if that front track is part of what is sticking, then cleaning it or replacing the fabric track, is a lot easier if it is out of the car.

 

[JLo]

Yes, my track looks like that. Going down, very smooth and fast. Going up, it sounds like something gets jammed in the front rail.

 

[Arde]

Why is one of the rails painted black and the other shiny metal? Is one of them stainless steel and the other mild steel?

 

[eriknetherlands]

@Arde , the front rail is an extension of the triangle vent window, thus it is chromed.
The rear track is a part that is not visible. To me it indeed appears as a std mild steel part, painted black.

These parts are (i believe) identical for manual and electric window mechanisms.