Window regulator and interior door paint

H

Honolulu

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Tore into the front passenger window regulator today and had it out for cleaning and correction (I hadn't worked, or worked well, for quite a while). Lesson learned: the window motor drives a little transmission. That transmission case mounts to the regulator with two bolts and one screw. The shoulders of the trans have steps in them to seat into the regulator. DO NOT miss that critical detail, if they don't seat the trans moved around, then the gears don't mesh, they go clunka-clunka for a time then fail to go all the way up. One of my trans shoulders was worn away from misalignment, and the screw hole needed to be drilled out. Fortunately I got this before too much damage was done to the big gear, though is it slightly notchy near the top, it now actually goes all the way up and down and fairly smoothly and pretty rapidly.

But I noticed a bit of rust on the inside of the door. Haven't put the door panel back on, thought I'd ask the group for any recommendations about rust prevention inside the door. There is no scaling, just a salt-and-pepper sprinkle of the stuff where I can see the inside. Perhaps there is more behind/around where I can't see. I'm thinking I won't be able to clean effectively in some areas, so whatever I use should be penetrating/sealing.

What potions would the group recommend to address this?
 
Your question is probably best answered by revisiting all of the many posts on general rust prevention. See, e.g., http://e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9235

Since the interior door skin is not exposed to direct sunlight or other heavy weather (excepting constant humidity), I would expect virtually any decent spray paint with moderate rust abating properties would be fine, e.g., rustoleum. I have used something similar that was originally sold for marine environment (plenty of zinc) on several hidden areas as well as inexpensive off-the-shelf can rattle can offerings. After many years, the difference is minimal - except that the gloss off-the-shelf spray paint actually looks better. POR-15 is always good, but for what you described, it would probably be overkill.

For door interiors and other hidden areas I would also consider some of the "old fashioned" concoctions that have stood the test of time - Cosmoline comes to mind. I had a different '72 model that received Ziebart treatment when new. Where it was treated - there was good rust protection. More coverage would have been better; however, working on or near the treated areas was messy, as you might expect with almost any undercoating.

hth


"Somewhat" related? http://www.thehulltruth.com/sportfishing-charters-forum/123560-test-corrosion-inhibitor-sprays.html
 
After remidiating the rust an inexpensive rust encapsulator/preventative is Penetrol, probably available in Hawaii at a home depot type store or a good hardware store in the paint dept. Spray it in with a wand garden sprayer and it seeps into all the crevices and dries to a tough semi flexible coating. I've used it in the doors, rockers, fenders, etc. Put a drop cloth under the car and protect anything you don't want it to touch. Paint thinner will clean it up when it's wet but no fun when it's dry.
 
I just finished fixing the regulator on my driver's door. Lot's of credit to Bill a fellow coupe owner. Well, actually all the credit.
I found no sign of rust.
But I will cover the metal behind the door panel with contact paper, replacing the original plastic the factory installed. I would like to think this tactic has kept the rust at bay. Please comment, especially if the plastic is actually holding moisture.
Steve
 
oneills said:
I will cover the metal behind the door panel with contact paper, replacing the original plastic the factory installed. I would like to think this tactic has kept the rust at bay.
Click to expand...

I am skeptical that the plastic sheeting does anything to prevent rust. After all, water gets into the door by sheeting down the window - not by coming through the interior trim panel. Even if you never drive in the rain, the inside of the door is going to be exposed to humid air and the resulting condensation; a plastic sheet has no impact on that.

I believe the purpose of the plastic sheet is to isolate the door panel board from the moisture that inevitably gets inside the door. Those panels warp when they get wet; I try to minimize that by painting the panel's inside surface with Thompsons Water Seal.
 
This was a completely non-stock solution but the guy that did my cards made them out of some type of plastic. Same thickness as the board but semi-indestructable. I left the plastic sheet off too because I had to go into the doors about 50 times to get everything right and I never knew which one of those 50 times was going to net me the result I wanted. :-( Plus, I'm sure I'll be back there again!
 
Peter Coomaraswamy said:
This was a completely non-stock solution but the guy that did my cards made them out of some type of plastic. Same thickness as the board but semi-indestructable.
Click to expand...

That is definitely a better solution than the compressed sawdust stuff the factory used. But it's tough to put staples into lexan or fiberglass. Still, if you can glue your upholstery to the plastic, you will have door panels that will never warp.

I left the plastic sheet off too because I had to go into the doors about 50 times to get everything right and I never knew which one of those 50 times was going to net me the result I wanted
Click to expand...

Yea, that's the problem with the plastic sheet. It isn't "mechanic friendly".
 
I replaced the door cards long ago with 1/8" mahogany ply, coated (both sides I hope, don't remember) with whatever varnish-type product I had laying about at the time. I no longer drive in any rain, actually hardly drive the CS much at all any more.

But I sold the 'vert, and spent half a day fixing the passenger window, so now I'll drive the CS more frequently. Lots more to do, always is.

Thanks for the suggestions, guys. I will explore the Penetrol idea a bit. I've used its sister product Floetrol in water based paint; now perhaps it's time for the alkyd version.
 
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